Blank Page Blank Page Blank Page With a Saucepan Over the Sea Blank Page With a Saucepan Over the Sea Blank Page With a Saucepan Over the Sea Quaint and Delicious Recipes from the Kitchens of Foreign Countries SELECTED AND COMPILED BY ADELAIDE KEEN WITH ILLUSTRATIONS Boston Little, Brown, and Company 1910 Copyright, 1902, By Little, Brown, and Company. All rights reserved Printers S. J. PARKHILL & Co., BOSTON, U. S. A. TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE Introduction........................................................................... xiii CHAPTER ONE Soups................................................................................. I The oldest broth known. French soups, quaint and mod­ ern. A soup for a queen. Shell-fish soups. Nourishing provincial broths. Soups of game, giblets, and veal. Ele­ gant Parisian purees and consommes. Peasant broths. Vegetable soups of France, Italy, and Germany. Strength­ ening ones peculiar to different countries : Hungary, Russia, Greece, Prussia. Fruit soups of German origin. CHAPTER TWO Fish, Eggs, and Sauces................................................. 33 French and English ways with shrimps and lobster. Bouillabaisse and kindred ancient recipes, for holidays. Cod and mackerel of Provence and of Germany. Scotch and Cornish recipes. Fish braised and in salad. Sole, as cooked for Marie de Medici. Crabs in new and old fashions. Oysters and eels. Fish pies and cutlets. Piquant and wholesome sauces. Old English recipes for cullis and essence. Harmless coloring for soups and desserts. Jewish, English, and other methods of frying fish. Sea­ soning and vinegar for flavoring soups and salads. Eggs of many towns and countries. Omelettes, Spanish, French, and German. V CHAPTER THREE PAGE Meats and Entrees.......................................................67 Roast lamb and mutton in northern and southern France. Veal in Italy and Germany. English and German recipes for roast pig and pork. Goose cooked in England and Provence. Beef, in fillet and steak, of Paris and London. Two royal and historic recipes for cooking chicken. Fried chicken of many cities. German and Hungarian stews of chicken. Cannelons of Marseilles. Xmas capon in France. Turkey in several delightful ways. Sweetbreads, various and luxurious. Veal cutlets in Italy and Germany. Chops in all fashions and of many places. The national dishes of Hungary, Spain, Russia, and Italy. Two stand-bys of old England. A convent dish of renown. Haggis as it should be. Love in disguise, or baked calf's heart. Other old English dishes dear to novelists and great people. Tripe and callalou, in France. Cassoulic and cassolette of Provence. The famous fancy sausages of Nancy. Pigs' feet, at their best. Hodge-podge, crowdie, and kedgeree. Beef tongue of many climes. Liver and kidney in good styles. Ragouts and stews. Hashes and croquettes. “ Made-overs " of many countries. Game and geese and partridge, hare, rabbit, and venison, in old and delicious forms. Pork pies of Melton Mowbray. Pies of many sources and varied interior. Each town offers a pie of ancient excellence. Nothing too good for a pie. Madame de Pompadour s tart. Humble pie and annastich. CHAPTER FOUR Vegetables and Salads ... 131 Green peas as cooked in France and England. Aspara­ gus in French and Spanish homes. Spinach and beans in vi PAGE appetizing recipes. Potatoes as cooked by the Trappists, and in Italy and Flanders. Baked tomatoes in delectable Italian styles. Celery and cauliflower. Mushrooms, in French and Hungarian ways. Carrots as they should be. Eggplant in Provence, Naples, and Constantinople. Aus­ trian, Greek, and Turkish cookery of cucumbers and squash. Onions in several wholesome styles. Cabbage above the average. Artichokes as they are cooked in Lyons. Various recipes for cooking rice. Rice in Anda­ lusia and Toulouse — as cooked in the convent. Curries from Anglo-Indian sources. Burdwain and pilau. Maca­ roni and spaghetti in real Italian excellence. Many recipes. Gnocchi and ravioli. Noodles. Fancy vegetable entrees. Sauer kraut. Salads of Normandy and Gascony ; from Nantes. Brussels sprouts as salad. Swedish and Russian salad. Salad from Norway and Austria. English chicken salad. Alexandre Dumas’s famous recipe. An exclusive salad. Another, even better. Salmagundi. A good German salad. Sandwiches, sweet or savory, from Scot­ land, England, and France. CHAPTER FIVE Cakes, Puddings, and Pastry........................................ 157 Richmond maids of honor and King Henry’s shoe strings. A cake for a queen. Parsnip and Parkin cakes. Shrews­ bury cakes and brandy snaps. Cakes of Scotland and the Isle of Man. Honey cakes of Basle. Almond cakes of Pithiviers. Norman and Westphalian cakes. “ Gateau d.'epice " of the gingerbread fairs. Nuremberg ginger­ bread, or spice cake. Delightful German cakes. Made- lienes, Napoleons, delicieuses, Savarins, and brioches. Two fine cakes of Marseilles. Greek, Roumanian, and vii PAGE Russian cakes. German Xmas cake and English Twelfth Night cake. Hobelspanc and spatzen, or sparrow cakes. All kinds of buns. Good Friday or hot cross buns. Yorkshire cakes and crumpets. Rice pudding in French fashions. Sabaglione and frangipane. Three famous old English puddings. A Swedish dessert. Prize plum pud­ ding. Delicate desserts of French and German origin. A pudding of Buda-Pesth. Another of Italy, and Hungarian almond delight. Frumenty and Devonshire white-pot, in several ways. Syllabub, trifle, and roly-poly. Claret, as used in English and French desserts. A national dish of Norway A convent sweet. Delicious creams from Bavaria. Swiss and German creams. Alpine baskets. Gooseberries, gages, and apricots in tempting shape. An ancient French dish. Apples in compote and casserole. A Roumanian sweet. Fascinating fancy omelettes. Gaufres. Wafers and waffles. Konglaufle and imperial schmarn. Dainty pancakes of many sources. Fadges and fritters. Famous mi-careme fritters of Rome. French and Westphalian pastry. Epiphany cakes, or galettes. Fanchonettes and gimblettes. Cakes of Jersey, or wonders. Moravian love cakes. Banbury tarts. Tarts of all nations. Rheims biscuits. Profiterolles. Fruit pies. Rolls of Germany, Switzerland, France, and Austria. CHAPTER SIX Ices, Preserves, and Confections.................................. 212 Ices of Italy, England, and France. Raisin pudding and praline. Juditha. A famous French marmalade. Se­ crets of French jams of combined flavors. Damson cheese. Bar-le-Duc jelly or jam. Rare old English recipes for mixed or single fruit jams. Orange marmalade of Dundee. viii PAGE Rose jelly for pork and game. Almack's preserves. Tutti- frutti. Roseleaf jam of Greece, and Turkish delights. Nougat of Montelimert. Marrons glacees and maraschino bonbons. Barley sugar and apple sugar. Lozenges and marchpane. Italian candy. Vienna chocolate and Turk­ ish coffee. CHAPTER SEVEN Hot and Cold Drinks....................................................226 Heidelberg punch and grandfather's nightcap. Lawn sleeve and brown Betty. Regent's punch and a punch for a king. Oxford grace cup and Oxford bishop. Eng­ lish garden-party drinks. Caudle, wassail, and Xmas bowl. Sack posset and other ancient swallows. Sir Walter Raleigh's recipe. Ale flip, lamb's wool, and mulled wine. Drinks of dead celebrities. Picturesque May nectar and Teutonic mead. Capillaire of “the boulevardier." Orange and rhubarb and currant wines. English home-made champagne. An Irish cordial. Rec­ ipes for fine and fancy French and German cordials. Violet vinegar and methcglin. Bitters for cocktails — an English recipe. POSTSCRIPT Hints and Secrets..........................................................239 The advantages of studying foreign cookery books. In what ways each of the old countries excel. Norway and Sweden stand apart. The uses of seasonings in European kitchens. Simplicity of art the aim of the expert cook. Natural flavors in their purity. Evil effects of spices. Soup the great panacea : how to make it; cheaply, IX but good. Details of stock-making explained. What to do with “ left-overs." New-old secrets for using them. Why the cook gets fat. Braising, the quintessence of exquisite cookery, yet old as the hills. How to have herbs close at hand and always fresh. Garlic in poetical phase. How “ left-overs " of meat are used in foreign kitchens. More hints about stock. Hash incognito. The many ways of wasting food prevalent in American homes. What a plain cook should know. The accomplishments of a fancy one. The glazing of meats and pastry, how done. Concluding with many little hints for the eager amateur. Bills of Fare from Many Nations..............................249 Index............................................................................................................. ........ 255 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Sweetbread Salad, Austria......................................Frontispiece (See page 152.) Onion Soup with Cheese, Italy................................ Page 19 Matelote of Fish in Casserole, Normandy . ... 40 Baked Sole, Normandy.................................................“40 Leg of Mutton, Gascony........................................... “68 Cannelons and Batons de Jakob, Marseilles .... 68 {See also page 167.) Braised Sweetbreads, Dauphiny.................................“ 88 Veal and Mushrooms, Germany ....... 88 Mock Rabbit, Germany........................................... “ 110 Asparagus, as cooked in Spain...................................... “ 110 Asparagus and Shrimp Salad, Germany...........................“156 Bath Buns,