SPME PRESENTATION ON CLOTH DRILL MARKERS AND NOTCHERS PRESENTED BY: SHRUTI AGARWAL SOHAM MALIK CUTTING TECHNOLOGY IN GARMENT INDUSTRY • Cutting is the preproduction process of separating (sectioning, carving, severing) a spread into garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on the marker. • Objective: To separate fabric parts as the replicas of pattern pieces in the marker plan. CUTTING MACHINES From the standpoint of cutting stroke action, there are two basic types of cutting machines: Cutting machines Continuous cutting intermittent cutting machine machines Continuous cutting equipment It has no negative trust in the blade action, that is, every movement of the blade cuts the fabric. Examples of continuous cutting equipments are • Vertical blade reciprocating machine • Rotary blade cutting machine • Band knife machine. Intermittent cutting machines • In intermittent cutting equipment, the tools or machine has two actions; the positive action is the machine movement which actuates the blade for cutting and the negative action is the one which releases the blade in order to reposition the blade for next cutting. Examples of intermittent cutting machines are: • Diecutters • Shears • Notchers • Drills CUTTING DRILLS •Cutting drills are used to place guide marks or reference marks on the surfaces of superposed plies. These marks instruct the sewing machine operators (or other processing personnel) where pockets, darts, appliqué, trimming, etc.must be positioned by drilling a hole through all the plies of the fabric. •The drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the drill to pass through, and a spirit level to ensure that the Base is horizontal and hence the drill vertical. The base is placed on the spread; the motor is started; this rotates the needle. And the rotating needle is pressed down into the spread by the cutter. •Cutting drills have two types of speed: the rpm of the drill and the downward velocity of the rotary drill needle as it pierces the lay. Practically all present cutting drills in use today are as yet manually operated and controlled with respect to the piercing velocity and piercing distance. TYPES OF DRILLS CLOTH DRILLS AWL DRILLS HYPODERMIC DRILLS COLD DRILLS HOT DRILLS The awl needle is a solid needle whose function is to cut a hole in the fabric which the sewing operator can easily locate. The hypodermic drills have hollow needles which contain marking fluid and mark the fabric with the fluid as the needle is withdrawn. TYPES OF FLUIDS FLUORESCENT DAYLIGHT The fluorescent fluid can only be detected under “black light”, special infra red fluorescent lamps. daylight fluids are visible in ordinary lighting. Some of these fluids contain paraffin mixtures which disappear when the fabric is pressed, others may leave permanent marks in the fabric. COLD DRILL The Cold drill works in a similar manner to a punch cutting a small circle of material as it bores down through the layers of fabric. The shaft rotates like a wood drill, cutting the hole as it moved vertically downward. HOT DRILL The Hot drill uses a solid shaft that is electrically heated. The drill leaves a burn mark to leave a lasting mark on loose weaves and knits. Parts of hot drill handle Drill lock button Manual switch drill body containing motor Guide pipe Heater lamp needle Thermostat knob Guide pipe adjuster heater spirit level heater cloth defender nozzle EASTMAN MODELS Model CD3(cold drill) and CD3H(hot drill)- •Model CD3 is perfect for use with fabrics such as loosely knit, bulky and quilted spreads, where a mark is needed but a burn mark is unnecessary. •On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, hot drill is used, which will slightly scorch or fuse the edges of the hole. Hot cloth drills have solid state thermostatically controlled heating element. MODEL CD3(cold drill) BENEFITS •Accurate Positioning of Buttons, Darts, Pockets, etc. •Marking with a hole through the material for perfect alignment. •Decreased distortion even on bulky and quilted spreads, provided by the large square base plate. MODEL CD3H(hot drill) BENEFITS Accurate Sewing- •Marking with a burn mark on material with open knit. •Fusing of smooth/slippery fusible material where plys need to be in perfect alignment for sewing. SPECIFICATIONS Motors: 110v, 1ph ,220v, 1ph,220v, 3ph Weight: CD3- 6.84 kg. CD3H-8.16 kg. Horsepower: .20 hp, 1 ph; .34 hp. 3 ph Drill Tips: Diamond Point Taper Point Open End Awl Closed End Awl Teflon Coating Needle Heater Drill Diameter in (Inches): 3/64", 5/64", 3/32", 3/16", 1/4". 5/16", 3/8" Drill Depth Capacity (Inches): 6", 8'" 11.5 " HAWK MODEL Model CDL and CDLH- With all the advantages of Eastman’s CD3 cloth drill, the hawk boasts a balanced actuating lever to increase accuracy and nearly eliminates drilling efforts. Since the lever advantage allows the operator to drill with less strain, distortion to the cloth is minimal and operator fatigue is greatly reduced. It can be used for heavy canvas and denims as well as for loose knits and silks. STRING MARKING The String marking is a device that uses a needle that penetrates all the plies of the lay. The needle carries a thin cord which is left in the fabric marking a drill hole location. This is used on very loosely knit or woven fabrics where a not notch would damage the fabric. The sewing operator pinches each ply at the string, holding the point as a reference for sewing. String marker Thread guide handle Main frame needle looper Base plate Threadmarker •The Threadmarker is a dual use machine that provides a substitute method of short-term marking when a permanent mark is not desired, and for bundling cut pieces. •Utilizing a needle, a thread is pulled through the material which allows the operator to determine where to place pleats, darts, buttons, or pockets. •A large-eyed, long coarse needle housed in a lever and spring operated vertical rod attached to a cantelever frame. Base plate contains a looper mechanism synchronized with needle to complete stitch. FEATURES Marking of Delicate Fabrics •Penetration with a thin needle and thread indicating a mark point •Removal of marking thread after use, leaving delicate material mark free •Marking capacity of 6 inches (15.2 cm) with simple looper mechanism for ease of operation. Material Maneuverability Simplified transport of material to sewing station with the Threadmarker's bundling capabilities, that insert a string through the bundle Simplified Industrial Laundry Operation Elimination of towel tangling during washing by securing the continuous toweling with the Threadmarker's bundling capabilities NOTCHERS Notchers are either manual or electric machines used to make notches in the edge of a cut bundle. Unless cutting notches while cutting with the up and down knife, notchers are necessary for creating notches. Many garment parts require that notches are cut into the edges of them to enable alignment during sewing with other garments parts. The previously described methods of cutting can be used to cut notches, but accuracy depends on the operator. Specialised notching equipment provides greater accuracy because a guide lines up the notcher with the cut edge to give consistent depth of notch at a consistent right angle to the edge. TYPES OF NOTCHERS NOTCHERS HOT NOTCHERS INK NOTCHERS COLD NOTCHERS COLD NOTCHERS The Cold notcher is a manually operated, spring-loaded device with a short blade mounted on a plunger. Placed at the edge of the bundle, the cutter lines the blade up with the notch. In a single stroke downward, the notch is cut into the edge of all of the fabric plies. HOT NOTCHERS When spreading synthetics or loosely woven knits, it is a common problem for the spread to shift, resulting in distortion of the lay. By using the Hot Notcher to notch intermittently along the edge of the lay, the spread is held securely and can be shifted to the cutting area without worry. Another useful application for the Hot Notcher is to sear a deep notch into the spread which covers the whole area of the table. This deep notcher allows the cutter to keep the cutting machine base plate under the spread. This is the ideal tool because of its capacity for depth adjustment and its variable heat control 1400F to 1250F/2040C to 6770C present safe notching of any material up to 10 inch (25.4 cm) deep. Parts of hot notcher pilot lamp main switch Guide bar Heater bar Temperature controller Drive handle transformer Base plate In the sewing room the precise positioning of fabric is critical to the smooth operation of automatic sewing machines. Hot notcher allows the operator to fuse a permanent material thus facilitating the alignment of cut pieces on the sewing head, assuring sewing accuracy. EASTMAN Model HVN Specifications: Motors 110v, 1ph 220v, 1ph 220v, 3ph Temperature Control: Standard Single Punch Trigger: N/A Weight: 14 lbs, 4 oz., 6.75 kg. Mark Depth Capacity (Inches): 10” INK CLOTH NOTCHERS When pressed up against the edge of a stack of cut parts, the Ink Notcher makes a thin, perpendicular ink mark on the fabric. Can be used to mark up to 10” high. Comes with specially formulated black ink(for light fabrics or yellow ink for dark fabrics). Also can be used with invisible ultraviolet Glo- Blue marking fluid which is invisible unless viewed under black light. Recommended for use where notches can not be cut too deeply, with synthetic fabrics which can run when cut with a knife or fuse when notched with heat, or where an invisible notch is required. .