©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 487 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo swimming 30 50 Villarrica 235 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Viña del Mar 103 Espacio Quinta Normal 53 Zapallar 109 Museo de Artes Visuales 51 beavers 385 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes beer 22, 258 50 Belén 155 Santiago 60 bicycle travel, see bicycling Atacameño peoples 421 bicycling 30, 467-8 ATMs 458 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 405 Aymara peoples 420 Pucón 238 Azapa Valley 154 San Pedro de Atacama 180 A Santiago 58 accommodations 452-4, see also B birdwatching 442-3, see also national individual locations Bachelet, Michelle 430-1 parks & reserves, penguins Achao 295-6 Bahía Inglesa 197-9 Ancud 287 Aconcagua Valley 110-12 Balmaceda, José Manuel 423 Antarctica 389 activities 28-32, see also individual Baños Morales 84 Parque Tagua-Tagua 274 activities bargaining 460 Porvenir 382 addresses 454 Bartonellosis (Oroya fever) 456 Reserva Natural Laguna Nimez 368 adventure sports 20 bathrooms 461 Río Puelo Valley 274 ahu 411 beaches Villa O’Higgins 337 air travel 463-5, 467 Anakena 14, 412, 14 Bize, Matías 440 alerce 311, 444 Arica 146-7, 9 boat travel 468 Alessandri, Arturo 425 Bahía Inglesa 197-9 Bolaño, Roberto 439 Allende, Isabel 438 Bahía Mansa 257 Bolivia, travel into 180 Allende, Salvador 425-6 Buchupureo 128 books 418, 438-9 alpacas 443 Cachagua 109 border crossings 465-7 altitude sickness 456 Caldera 196 Brotes de Chile 21 Ampuero, Roberto 438 Caleta Condor 257 Buchupureo 128 Anakena Beach 14, 412, 14 Cobquecura 128 bus travel 465, 468-9, 471 Ancud 286-91, 288 Concón 109 bushwalking, see hiking Andes, the 269, 441 Chochuenco 252 business hours 454 Angol 134-5 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 404 animals, see individual animals Horcón 109 C Antarctica 345, 389, 445 Iquique 163 Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn) 388 Anticura 260 La Serena 207 Cabo Froward 350 Antillanca 260 Lago Calafquén 253 Cachagua 109 Antofagasta 189-92 Lican Ray 248 Caiozzi, Silvio 440 Archipiélago Juan Fernández 135-41, Maicolpué 257 Cajón del Maipo 82-5 136 Maitencillo 109 Calama 174-5, 186 area codes 17, 461 Middle Chile 35 Caldera 196-7 Argentina Norte Chico 36 Caleta Tortel 335-6 Patagonia 367-77 Papudo 109 Campeonato Nacional de Rodeo 22 Tierra del Fuego 388-400 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar canyoning 30 travel to 337 195 Cape Horn 388 Parque Punta Curiñanco 255 Arica 143-54, 146, 9 car travel 17, 465, 469-71 Pichilemu 116 art galleries Carnaval 21 Casa del Arte Diego Rivera 275-6 Playa Cucao 302 Carretera Austral 12, 309, 12 Centro Cultural Matucana 100 54 Playa La Virgen 198 Casablanca Valley 107-8 Centro Gabriela Mistral 50 Playa Larga 271 Castro 296-301, 298 Galería Animal 60 Pucatrihue 257 cathedrals, see churches & Pucón 238 Galería Isabel Aninat 60 cathedrals Puerto Fonck 261 La Sala Galería de Arte 60 cell phones 17, 460-1 Quintay 108 Chaitén 312-14 Reñaca 109 Chajnantor 183 safety 459 000 Map pages Chatwin, Bruce 351 surfing 32 000 Photo pages Chepu 291-2 488 children, travel with 33-4 cooking courses internet resources 415 Santiago 61 Curarrehue 248 language 474 Chile Chico 328-30 Valparaíso 96 money 415 Chilean recluse spiders 456 Copiapó 199-202 travel to/from 415-16 Chillán 124-6, 125 Coquimbo 211 travel within 416 Chiloé 36, 284-304, 285 courses, see also individual locations economy 418, 434 accommodations 284 cooking 96, 248 El Calafate 367-72, 368 climate 284 language 58, 59, 96, 147, 166, El Cañi 246 INDEX INDEX food 284 208, 457 El Caulle 261 highlights 285 Coyhaique 321-6, 322 El Chaltén 374-7 Chinchorro peoples 149, 420 credit cards 458 El Gigante de Atacama 171 C-G Chuquicamata 175-7 Cruce el Maitén 331 El Molle peoples 421 churches & cathedrals Cueva del Milodón 358-9 El Tatio 13, 189, 13 Catedral Metropolitana 45 culture 418-19, 433-4 electricity 453, 454 Chiloé 9, 287, 9 Cunco peoples 421 Elqui Valley 10, 214-20, 10 Iglesia de San Francisco 49 Curacautín 233 embassies 455 Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón 263 Curaco de Vélez 295 emergencies 17 Iglesia Hanga Roa 404 curanto 290 language 475 Iglesia La Matriz 95 Curarrehue 247-8 Ensenada 269-70 Iglesia Parroquial María Curicó 122-3 Entre Lagos 258-9 Inmaculada 272 currency 16, 458 environment 444-6 Iglesia San Francisco 95, 207 customs regulations 454 Estancia Yendegaia 384 Iglesia San Francisco de Castro 297 cycling, see bicycling etiquette 434 climate 16, 21-2, 441-2, see also events, see festivals & events individual locations D exchange rates 17 climate change 445, 463 Dakar, the 165 climbing 29-30 dangers 459-60, 470 El Chaltén 375 F departure tax 464 Parque Nacional Conguillío 232 ferry travel, see boat travel Dientes de Navarino 386 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares Festival de la Virgen del Carmen 22 disabilities, travelers with 461-2 (North) 375 Festival Internacional de la diving 30 Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Canción 21 Cruces 202 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 404 festivals & events 21-2, see also Parque Nacional Torres del Paine Reserva Nacional Pingüino de individual locations 364 Humboldt 206 Fiesta de la Candelaria 21 Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez San Juan Bautista 139 Fiestas Patrias 22 Rosales 271 dogs 459 film 60, 418, 439-40 Parque Nacional Villarrica 244-5 Donoso, José 438 fires 445, 447 Pucón 239 Dorfman, Ariel 438 fishing 30 Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez 328 drinking, see individual locations food 19, 455, see also individual Puerto Varas 264 drinks, see beer, pisco sours, water, locations Río Cochamó Valley 272 wine football 73 San Pedro de Atacama 180 driver’s licenses 469 Frei Montalva, Eduardo 425 Valle Las Trancas 126 driving, see car travel Frutillar 262-3 Valle Nevado 85 drugs 457 Fuerte Bulnes 350 Volcán Osorno 270 Fuguet, Alberto 439 Volcán Villarrica 8, 239, 8 E Futaleufú 314-16 Cobquecura 128 earthquakes 430, 436, 459 Cochrane 334-5 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 37, 401-16, G Codpa 155 403, 8, 14, 426 Galaz, Cristian 440 Colchagua Valley 9, 113-16, 9 accommodations 401, 414 galleries, see art galleries colectivos 471 arts 414 gay travelers 62, 455-6 Concepción 129-31 climate 401 geography 441 Concón 109 culture 413, 414 geology 441 consulates 455 environment 414 geysers 13, 189, 13 festivals 21 glaciers 374, 445 food 401 Caleta Tortel 335-6 000 Map pages highlights 403 Glaciar Martial 391 000 Photo pages history 413-14 Glaciar Perito Moreno 372 489 Glaciarium 368 Hornopirén 308-10 J Parque Nacional Laguna San horseback riding 32 Jodorowsky, Alejandro 439 Rafael 326-7 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) Justiniano, Gonzalo 440 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares 405 372-7 Parque Nacional Torres Parque Nacional Torres del Paine del Paine 363, 31 K 363 Pucón 238 kayaking 32 graffiti art 18 Río Cochamó Valley 265 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 363 guanacos 443 San Alfonso 83 INDEX Pucón 238-9 Guzmán, Patricio 439 horseflies 459 kitesurfing 32 hot springs, see thermal springs H Huasco Valley 203-5 G-L Hanga Roa 403-10, 406 Huilliche peoples 257 L accommodations 405-9 Huilo-Huilo Reserva Natural La Araucanía 226-48 activities 404-5 Biosfera 255 La Junta 273, 317-18 drinking 409-10 Humberstone 170 La Serena 206-14, 208 food 409 accommodations 209-10 information 410 I courses 208 shopping 410 illegal drugs 457 drinking 212 sights 403-4 immigration 462, 463, 464 entertainment 212 tours 405 independence 422 festivals & events 209 hantavirus 456 indigenous peoples 420-1 food 210-12 Harberton 399 Atacameño peoples 421 history 206-7 health 456-7 Aymara peoples 420 information 212 hiking 18, 28-9, see also national Chinchorro peoples 149, 420 tours 208-9 parks & reserves Cunco peoples 421 travel to/from 212-13 Dientes de Navarino 386 Huilliche peoples 257 travel within 214 Glaciar Martial 391 Rapa Nui peoples 413, 414, 424, La Tirana 172, 173 Parque Nacional Archipiélago Juan 426, 434, 426 Lago Blanco 384 Fernández 140-1 Tiwanaku peoples 421 Lago Cachet 445 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares insurance 457 Lago Calafquén 253 (North) 374-5 car 470 Lago Panguipulli 252 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares health 456 Lago Ranco 252 (South) 373 travel 457 Lakes District 15, 256-83, 15 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar 195 internet access 457 landsailing 30 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego landscapes 19 398 internet resources 17 language 16, 418, 473-9 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 415 359-67, 360, 362-3, 7 Santiago 41 language courses 457 Parque Nacional Villarrica 245 Iquique 161-70, 162 Arica 147 Parque Pumalín 310-11 accommodations 166-7 Iquique 166 Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay activities 163-6 La Serena 208 121 drinking 168 Santiago 58-9 San Pedro de Atacama 180 entertainment 168 Valparaíso 96 Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional food 167-8 lapiz lazuli 460 Patagonia) 333 history 161 Larrain, Ricardo 439 historic buildings information 169 legal matters 457 Casa Colorada 49 shopping 169 Lemebel, Pedro 439 Casa Museo Eduardo Frei Montalva sights 161-3 lesbian travelers 62, 455-6 54-5 tours 166 Lican Ray 248 Congreso Nacional 95 travel to/from 169 Limarí Valley 220-1 La Chascona 11, 51, 11 travel within 169-70 literature 351, 418, 438-9 La Sebastiana 93 Isla Alejandro Selkirk 141 Littín, Miguel 439 Palacio Cousiño 58 Isla Mechuque 292-3 llamas 443, 19 Palacio de la Moneda 49 Isla Navarino 384-8 Llanada Grande 274 history 20, 420-32 Isla Negra 108 loco 291 hitchhiking 471 Isla Pan de Azúcar 195 Lollapalooza Chile 22 holidays 459 Isla Quinchao 295-6 Lolol 115 Horcón 109 itineraries 23-7 López, Nicolás 440 490 Los 33 203, 419, 431 Museo Artequín 61 Parque Nacional Laguna San Los Andes 110-11 Museo Chileno de Arte Rafael 326-7 Los Angeles 133-4 Precolombino 45 Parque Nacional Lauca 159-60, Lota 131 Museo Corbeta Esmeralda 161-2 156-7, 2, 19