30 TRAVEL MAIL Mail Today, New Delhi, Sunday, January 9, 2011 Paranormal activity at a feast for the senses Castle Leslie in Ireland also has a levitating bed. No wonder Sir Paul McCartney and Heather Mills chose to get married there. By Kalpana Sunder MONAGHAN IS WHERE CASTLE LESLIE IS UK feel I have walked onto the set of a period North Atlantic Ocean film. A world packed with antiques and Northern anecdotes. A perfect setting for staging DUBLIN Ireland murder mysteries or exploring the para- normal. In the hands of the Leslie family I (who can trace their lineage to Attila the BELFAST Hun) since the 1600s, Castle Leslie in Glaslough village, County Monaghan in Ire- land, sprawls over a thousand acres. GALWAY MONAGHAN The large antique key that I receive for my room sets the tone for the next few days. The decor is quirky and filled with family history. There are no distractions like televi- sion sets, phones, wifi, clocks or mini-bars. The furnish- DUBLIN ings are a bit worn out, like in someone’s home — well IRELAND lived and comfortable. There are three gleaming lakes, ancient woodlands and forests of ash, yew and sycamore, even an integrated wetlands system. The castle also UK boasts of a top-class equestrian centre with more than 30 N CORK horses, a riding school, and miles of bridle paths. For foodies, Castle Sammy’s father, a dashing pilot ghoulish delight the picture of NATURE’S ESSENCE: The area has three gleaming lakes, forests of Leslie has a full- fledged cooking who wrote several books including Brede House, the most haunted ash, yew and sycamore, and even an integrated wetlands system school with some unusual courses the classic Flying Saucers Have house in England from where this like Men-Only and Irish cooking Just Landed. There’s a flamboyant bed came. Italian monastery. by seasons. mural of a ghostly scene on the War medals, a quill pen used by Today the joi-de-vivre sparkles My ‘Leslie experience’ starts walls of the bathroom and a former Pope, a bullet extracted in his eyes and he is known to fre- with a facial at the Organic spa coloured lights cast an eerie glow. from the thigh of Tom Leslie who quent discos over the weekend. with orange and rhubarb extracts. The Red Room was Sir John’s was injured in the Battle of the He shows us a portrait of his We get the grand tour from Sir mother’s room — is an Light Brigade, Sir Winston uncle, grandmother, and father John Leslie, the 93-year-old eccen- ornate four poster bed, Churchill’s christening saying in the excited voice of a tric owner of the castle who has furniture from Perugia dress and old letters boy, “That’s my daddy”! lived there since 1994. Sammy (in Italy) and diffused Some are on display in the In the hallway is the coat of arms Leslie, Sir John’s niece, is the per- lighting. But it’s the of Winston living room. There bearing the family motto “Gripp son responsible for turning the bathroom which has are family portraits, fast”, indicating the clan’s never- castle into a viable proposition. us stunned: a Churchill’s photos of digni- say-die attitude perhaps? Sir The family has famous connec- unique wood-pan- taries, and an elab- John tells us the origins of the tions. Sir John talks casually elled throne toilet old letters are orate mantel from motto. The Scottish member of about the Duke of Wellington who with even the coat the Santa Maria the clan, Bartholomew Leslie, was was a first cousin and Sir Winston of arms, and the first also on display Novella church in rescuing Queen Margaret of Scot- Churchill who was a close friend of plumbing bath to be in the living Florence. Sir John land and fording a river. He was lady in a long dress walk even in the family. Over the years, famous installed in Ireland. plays a Chopin riding the horse sitting behind her broad daylight! Dinner is an elabo- celebrities and royalty have stayed Norman’s Room was room melody effortlessly on and when the horse almost sank rate six-course gourmet meal in the here. Paul Mc Cartney’s ill-fated named after a member of the grand piano, which is in the river he shouted, “Grip fast, atmospheric family dining room lit marriage to Heather Mills took the family who was destined centuries old. He is remark- my buckle”. She held on to his only with candles. I go to bed that place here. to inherit the castle but was killed able for his age: his sprightly gait buckle and was saved. The queen night with the lights on, just in case Each of the rooms is named after prematurely in World War I. and command of history would told him to adopt the buckle as Norman decides to communicate a member of the Leslie family and Apparently his ghost (reputed to put a young man to shame. This his coat of arms and ‘grip fast’ with me! decorated in an eclectic pastiche be a friendly one) still inhabits his nonagenarian has had an inter- became the motto. The writer is a travel writer based of styles. My room is called room and is known to levitate the esting past: he’s been a German We walk through the haunted in Chennai and a Japanese Desmond’s room, named after bed! Sir John shows us with POW in the war and lived in an gallery where people have seen a language specialist Chasing waterfalls in Karnataka is FROM Hogenakkal to Jog Falls in village and do taste the fried fish Shimoga, Karnataka and its sold in little shacks all around. neighbouring states make for a Head back to Bangalore. fascinating Waterfall Trail. This Day 2: Drive to Shivanasamudra part of the land is blessed with RITU (125 km) where the Cauvery dense forests, mountains, lush splits to form a pair of water- vegetation and some of the best AGARWAL falls. Head to Mysore for a deli- falls in the country. The itinerary ROHATGI cious vegetarian meal — akki I share with you is not easy. But if roti, raagi dosa and avalakki. you have the drive, it will make Editor, India Today Travel Plus Drive on to Madikeri (150 km). for some lifelong memories. Reach Raja Seat in time to catch Day 1: Start early from Bangalore the sunset and a breathtaking and head to Hogenakkal Falls via very river resounds in your ears view of the valley with the road Pearl Valley (130 km). Hogenakkal long after you get away. You that descends into Mangalore. is located 750 feet above sea must hire a coracle, which is a Must sample the iconic pandi level amidst the Melagiri Hills. circular basket boat covered (pork) curry for dinner. The route is scenic, laced with with buffalo hide or black plastic Day 3: Head to Abbey falls (10 lush rice fields and giant terra- sheets to cross the river to reach km). A pedestrian bridge offers a GUSHING BEAUTY: The road from Hogenakkal to the Jog Falls in cotta village guardian deities the foot the majestic waterfalls. taste of its majesty, with the Shimoga, Karnataka, is hemmed in by forests and craggy hills (Aiyanars). The roar of the Cau- Later try the oil massage in the spray drenching visitors. Post.