H7l.f -·'1~ 'l::c Make A Gathered Skirt CIRCULAR 580 OCTOBER 1964 AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE VIRGINIA POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE BLACKSBURG, VIRGINIA Make a Gathered Skirt Prepared by MarrJaret Groseclose, Err:tension ClothinrJ Specialist •Many girls like gathered skirts and they Make a Placket • are easy to make. Plump girls look best in 1. Work with the side seam where the gored skirts. When you make a gathered opening was left for the placket. skirt, you learn to make seams, put in a 2. Fold back the front placket extension placket, fit a waistband, hem a skirt, and put to the seam line. Press and pin. on a fastener. You study what to look for in 3. Machine stitch the length of the placket choosing a fabric and how to prepare it for opening 5/ 8" from the folded edge. Stitch cutting a garment. This will help you in diagonally to the folded edge (or seam line), making other garments. catching the back extension. 4. Clip the back seam allowance almost Supplies You Will Need to the stitching line, approximately 1/2" be- low the end of the placket. Include a sewing box, thread to match 5. Press the side seams open. background of fabric, hooks and straight eyes, 6. Two snap fasteners may be used to i:maps, and fabric. The amount of fabric keep the placket closed. needed will be twice the length of your skirt, including 3" for hem plus 5" for waistband. Figure 2 Measure and Cut 1. Straighten the fabric. 2. If you are using 2 lengths for the skirt, cut a 5-1/8" strip across the fabric for the band. Measure the amount you allowed for the 2 skirt lengths and tear or cut apart. 3. Press the fabric for the band and skirt. Back Frout Stitch the Seams Gather Top of Skirt Pin selvage edges together and keep edges 1. Lengthen the machine stitch to 8 to 10 even. Stitch 5/ 8" seam from the bottom of stitches per inch to do machine basting for the skirt to the top, leaving a 6" opening on gathering. one side for the placket; backstitch to lock 2. Use your seam guide to keep your threads. Snip selvage every 3" or 4" to stitching even. Make a row of machine hast- prevent puckering when skirt is washed. ings 1/2" from the top edge of skirt; make a second row of stitching 3/4" from the top. Top of Skirt If you use a heavy-duty or nylon thread on the bobbin when you do this stitching, you are Placket 6" less likely to break the thread as you adjust the gathers. Divide the skirt in half and Selvages Bottom of Skirt Figure l mark. Stitch the front half, then stitch the back half, rather than sew all the way around without stopping. The gathers will be easier to adjust. Make the Band Seam 1. Use the 5"-wide strip you cut or tore Allowance and from one length of the skirt fabric and follow Under Lap Fi.gure 6 these steps to make your skirt band. 2. To make any size band, use thes measurements. 2. Pin the raw edge of the skirt band to Length--Your waist measurement the skirt with right sides together, matching plus 3". pins (Fig. 7). The band will extend 5/8" be- Width--Three times the width of fin- yond placket edge on the left front of the skirt ished band plus 5/8". (Example-- and 2-3/8'' beyond the placket on the left side for 1-1/2" finished band, cut fabric of the skirt. 5-1/8" wide.) 3. For a band 1-1/2" wide, fold 1-1/2" along the lengthwise edge of fabric to the wrong side. Press along the fold. Mark and quilt. This makes the side of the band you will WE.:ar next to you (Fig. 4). Figure 4 3. Draw up gathers to fit; distribute evenly and pin. Baste and stitch a 5/8" seamline. Stitch on the skirt side to help keep 4. Fold 5/ 8'' of opposite lengthwise edge gathers even. Here is where you use the of fabric to the wrong side. Press along fold. This crease will mark a stitching line (Fig. crease line on the skirt band as a stitching guide. 5). 4. Press the seam allowance toward skirt band. 5. Fold the skirt band back to the right Fold side along its center line. Stitch 5/8" seams 5/8" at both ends of the skirt band. Trim and . \Vr()~. s~~~ ()£ }i'ahric grade the seams; trim the corners; turn the skirt band; shape and press the ends (Fig. 8). l~" Fold Right Side Figure 5 Trim Sew Band to Skirt 1. Divide your skirt and band into 4 equal parts to help you make gathers even. Mark Back Left with pins. Be sure to allow for the underlap and 5/8" seams at both ends of the skirt band Figure 8 (Fig. 6). 6. Pin folded edge of the skirt band over 3. Make several stitches around each gathers. The skirt band will reach just be- ring. Also make several plain stitches near low the stitching that holds the outside of the the top of the hook to hold it in place. Be band to the skirt. Baste if necessary. Top- sure you place the eye so your band will lap stitch the band close to the edge (Fig. 9). Re- and so the placket is smooth and even. move the machine basting which shows below the skirt band. Hem Your Skirt 1. Try on your skirt with the type shoes you will wear with it. Have someone measure I \ I " \ the length at an even distance from thefloor. I \ I \ ' Mark it with a row of pins about every 3". - -- -\~ -· 2. Make a fold in the skirt along the pin line. Baste the hem about 1/4'' from the fold line. 3. The hem should be the same width, approximately 3", around the skirt. Wrong Side Skirt 4. Make a fold 1/4'' wide on the cut edge of the hem. Press the fold and stitch it 1/ 8" from the edge. Figure 9 5. To fasten the hem of your skirt, use a slip stitch, a vertical hemming stitch, a Attach Fasteners tailor's hem, or a blind stitch. 1. Select 2 hooks and eyes, either size 3, 4, or 5. The Final Touch 2. Place on at the top of the band and one Press your skirt and check it. at the bottom. ISSUED IN FURTHERANCE OF COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS, ACTS OF MAY BAND JUNE 30, 1914, IN COOPERATION WITH THE U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AG RIC UL TURE. W. H. DAUGHTREY, DIRECTOR, AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE, VIRGINIA POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE, BLACKSBURG, VIRGINIA. .