Denis Urubko

Denis Urubko

DENIS URUBKO . One of the best actual mountaineers of the World. Still on the podium since 21 year as a well known adventurer. Most important achievements spend on hi-altitude level above 6000 m. Did many mystical incredible ascents as “five New lines” over 8000 m in Alpine style. Real athlete breaking limits of imagination in Himalayas and Karakorum. Was awarded for many sportive and humanitarian actions during his career. Medial person with specific honor. Writer and presenter in love of public abroad Russia, Poland Spain and Italy. Summer 2019 spend in Karakorum, spending rescues and solo climb to Gasherbrum-2 (8035m). In short plans - winter Broad peak and K2 expedition as important humanity challenges. Life Was born on July 29th 1973 on the North Caucasus area in Russia. In mountains arrived with parents at first time. Involved by Tourist Club, participated in first easy ascents on the hills. At 14-years age immigrate to the Sakhalin island with parents, spend many travels in wild forest areas, getting the huge experience to survive. On 1990 took part of education at university in Vladivostok city. Meet some climbers there, but still travel alone. Debuted in Kodar mountain system at summer 1991 by the North face of 2600-mt peak. Then spend two-weeks solo trip in Altai, succeed on the Eastern Belukha (4506 m) mt. On 02 of February 1992 ascended the Eurasian heist volcano Kluchevskoy (4850 m). In 1992 Denis has begun the official alpinism (USSR classification). In January immigrate to Almaty, took a part in the mountaineering section of Central Sport Club of Army of Kazakhstan. Recruiting to army for two years. Since long period was military – from soldier till lieutenant in 1993-2011. Lived in Almaty city at the Tian-Shan mountains bottom. Did ascents in different mountain regions, was growing under the help of L.Savina, D.Grekov, Y.Gorbunov. After 2002 supported as coach the strong youth mountaineering team. Completed the best personal ascents and participate in many international nominations, festivals. Published eleven books by him self and with editors of Kazakhstan, Russia, Italy and Poland. Was dismissed out of Army from the Main Coach rank. Professional sportsman, journalist free-lance, writer, lector. 14 books edited in Kazakhstan, Italy, Russia, Poland. Awards . Piolet d’Or of World 2009 . Piolet d’Or of Asia 2006, 2009, 2011, 2012 . Golden Piton 2011 . Eiger Award 2009 . Himalayan Crown - all 8000-m peaks of world without oxygen in 9 years. “Snow Leopard” – had climbing on the 5 “seventhousand” peaks of CIS (USSR), - in 42 days. Champion of World, CIS, Kazakhstan, Kirgizstan, Spanish and USA alpinism. Best sportsman of Kazakhstan in 2009 . Champion and recordman many speed ascents competitions. Coach of mountaineering section 2002-2012, 2016-2018 . Around hundred climbs of Top quality (CIS classification). 21 climbs on “six thousand” peaks, 25 on “seven thousand” peaks, 23 on the “eight thousand” peaks. More than fifteen difficult climbs SOLO. Contact . E-mail [email protected] . Blog: http://www.urubko.blogspot.com .

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