Roam 3 Bolaven Plateau A magnificent swatch of jungle Five Reasons to 60 km northeast of Pakse, and a Visit Pakse cool respite at over 1,000 m, the Bolaven Plateau boasts some of Why visitors are the region’s top coffee planta- catching on to tions and lots of nature lodges. Trekking is popular, taking in the charms of ethnic tribes and magnificent southern Laos waterfalls. Some of the biggest falls (dropping 120 m) are right outside your windows at Tad even in asia’s sleepiest Fane Resort, the original Lao- nation, Pakse has always tian eco-lodge (tadfane.com), seemed unusually languid. tel: (856-20) 553 1400. Tucked down in Laos’ deep south, it was a regional capital 4 Treetop Zip Line in French colonial times and You plunge down cliffs and many structures survive from right into waterfalls on a series its early 20th century heyday. of heart-pumping zip lines But then it fell off the map and above Dong Hua Sao National in recent decades was visited Protected Area. Lao adventure only by the more adventurous specialists Green Discovery backpackers prepared to make recently opened a rustic group the long overland trek. That’s of treehouses just outside all set to change: flights now this sprawling wilderness connect Pakse to Vientiane and some 50 km from Pakse. and Bangkok, and stunning Guests can glide with chat- jungle and riverside lodges have tering parrots and monkeys, sprung up in the region to serve dropping into pristine can- the increasing numbers discov- yons. You have to trek into the ering this gateway to the south. treetop Jungle Hotel to begin Here are five great reasons to with, but once you arrive, 24- check it out. —ron gluckman 2 Champasak hour adrenaline is on tap. See greendiscoverylaos.com, 1 Si Phan Don The former capital of Laos’ southern kingdom, tel: (856-21) 264 528. Three hours by bus from this charming river town is about 40 km south Pakse, and the mighty Me- of Pakse and home to Wat Phou, which many 5 Pakse kong widens to nearly 14 km, Although the surrounding flowing through the riverine consider to be the birthplace of Khmer civiliza- countryside is full of attrac- archipelago of Si Phan Don tion. From stunning mountaintop ruins, you tions, Pakse is also a delightful (literally, Four Thousand can look over an ancient reservoir and easily destination in itself. With a Islands). On the biggest islands, fine stock of historic buildings, Don Khong and Don Det, imagine the tendrils of an empire that once sprinkled with charming cof- guesthouses are cheap and the connected this place to Angkor and Siam. It feehouses and riverside restau- pace addictively idyllic. These rants, Pakse is a perfect place are divine places to read those was served solely by guesthouses a few years to laze for a few extra days. The books you always meant to, or ago, but boutique hotels are now springing proprietors of the Pakse Hotel pen one of your own. Boat trips up in atmospheric old colonial manors—sure (hotelpakse.com), tel: (856-31) take in dolphin sightings and 212 131—he’s French and she’s thunderous falls by the Cam- signs of Champasak’s emergence. Rent a bike from Pakse’s royal family—are bodian border. Farther south, at Inthira Hotel (inthirahotels.com), tel: (856- fountains of local informa- on the Mekong Discovery Trail 31) 214 059, and feel like a long-ago explorer, tion, and the hotel’s rooftop (mekongdiscoverytrail.com), restaurant is a wonderful place lie some of the least traveled cruising around an infectiously friendly town, for cold refreshments or a parts of Cambodia. where everybody waves a welcome. breezy panorama. time May 7, 2012 timeTIME left LEFT page PAGE STORY SLUGS: SEQUENCE: DESIGNER: timeTIME right RIGHT page PAGE STORY SLUGS: SEQUENCE: DESIGNER: GUIDE#: REMARKS: GUIDE#: REMARKS: ISSUE DATE: SECTION: ISSUE DATE: SECTION:.
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