VIETNAM, CAMBODIA & LAOSThe Insiders’ Guide Experience local festivals, discover ancient cities and explore these three exciting countries, off the beaten track. CHINA Sapa Welcome! MYANMAR Halong Bay Luang Namtha Hanoi Our local insiders share their Luang Prabang tips on the most incredible Vang Vieng experiences around Vietnam, Vientiane Cambodia and Laos, and that’ll Phong Nha take you off the well-trodden Banana Pancake Trail. Choose LAOS Da Nang the season you travel wisely, THAILAND & Overview Hoi An and you’ll experience unique Contents Pakse cultural events, go trekking, VIETNAM Si Phan Don Virachey rafting and camping in remote Battambang areas, or perhaps be lucky Siem Reap CAMBODIA Kampong Cham enough to spot a rare Irrawaddy Nha Trang dolphin in the Mekong River. Dalat Phnom Penh Sihanoukville Phan Thiet Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam Phu Quoc Can Tho Hanoi 28 Northern Vietnam 30 Cambodia Contents A Nomad’s Story 34 Overview 2 Cambodia 38 Don’t Miss: Vietnam 3 Phnom Penh 39 Don’t Miss: Cambodia 4 Northeast Cambodia 42 Don’t Miss: Laos 5 Siem Reap 47 Border Crossings 6 Northwest Cambodia 51 Visas 8 Sihanoukville & the South 54 When to Go 9 Laos Festivals Calendar 10 Laos 58 Transport 12 Vientiane 59 Food 13 Southern Laos 62 Sustainable Travel Tips 15 Luang Prabang 65 Safety and Scams 17 Northern Laos 68 Insurance Tips Vietnam 18 Essential insurance Tips 71 Ho Chi Minh City 19 Our Contributors 73 Southern Vietnam 21 See Our Other guides 73 Central Vietnam 24 Need an Insurance Quote? 74 Cover image: Getty Images / Pham Le Huong Son Huong Le Getty / Pham image: Images Cover 2 DON’T MISS Vietnam Sapa & Overview Halong Bay Contents Hanoi Explore Tam Coc by bike Go to page 33 Explore the caves in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, Vietnam Go to page 27 Phong Nha Vietnam Da Nang Hoi An Cambodia Nha Trang Dalat Phan Thiet Ho Chi Minh City Find quiet hiking Phu Quoc Can Tho trails in Sapa Go to page 31 See Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Dalat Go to page 21 Laos Insurance Tips Go kayaking in Bai Tu Long Bay Go to page 30 3 DON’T MISS Cambodia & Overview Contents Relax on Koh Rong Island Go to page 56 Vietnam Spot the rare Irrawaddy river dolphin in Kratie Go to page 42 Virachey Battambang Siem Reap Cambodia Kampong Cham Go trekking, rafting and camping in Ratanakiri province Phnom Penh Go to page 45 Sihanoukville Laos Take a ride on the Bamboo Train in Battambang Go to page 51 Insurance Tips Explore the Angkorian temple complex of Koh Ker Go to page 47 4 DON’T MISS Laos & Overview Contents Halong Bay Luang Namtha See shining temples in Vientiane Luang Prabang Cycle into the countryside Go to page 60 Vang Vieng surrounding Vang Vieng Go to page 69 Vientiane Vietnam Pakse Si Phan Don Cambodia Bike the Bolaven Plateau Go to page 63 Laos Discover the 4,000 Islands Go to page 64 Insurance Tips Go hiking in Nong Khiaw Go to page 68 5 Border Crossings All you need to know about traveling overland between Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. & Overview Contents The previously drawn out process is now slightly faster, and some of the borders even have nice air- conditioned waiting rooms. But, you still have to allow an hour or two and be prepared to stand in line for a while. You’ll come across people Vietnam Cycling in Vietnam near the border with Laos who will offer to help carry your bags Getty / MarcPo Images across the border for a small price, but letting your bags out of sight notorious Poipet border. Although – even for a moment – could be a it has improved in recent years, the Most visitors recipe for disaster. best way to avoid any uncomfortable will arrive in run-ins with the infamous border Thailand and Cambodia Border scammers scammers (which can include bogus cross into Most visitors will arrive in Thailand officials) is to hold onto your passport Cambodia at and cross into Cambodia at the and hand it over at the counter the notorious yourself, keeping some small bills Poipet for any extra ‘fees’ you might entail, border. preferably paid in USD. Never give your passport to anyone who isn’t standing behind the counter. Laos However, while you’re waiting at the entry terminal at the border, such as at the Ha Tien and Chau Doc border between Vietnam and Cambodia, some bus companies will offer to take Insurance Tips passports in for stamping to save time. You may be asked to hand your passport over to the official bus staff, but be prepared and have a photocopy of your passport with you, in the Boats at Preah Rumkel Getty Image / Karin de Mamiel de Getty / Karin Image unlikely case you don’t get the original 6 back. When the officials are done processing the visa they will call out your name, take your fingerprints and give you back your passport. What to bring When crossing the border, ensure you have passport photos, a pen to & Overview fill out the visa forms, and your first Contents night’s accommodation sorted, in case you are asked for an address. Having small change available for any necessary trips to the bathroom is also advisable. A few extra tips include: Vietnam Don’t overstay your visa in any country – it’ll cost you US $10/day in Cambodia, for example. Keep your exit forms safe, as well as any pieces of paper that are stapled into your passport, as fines for losing these can A truck drives on a muddy road in Laos Cambodia also add up. Getty / mathess Images To-Do List Check your visa requirements before you go. Most nationalities need to get a visa before arrival to Vietnam, so don’t risk being turned around at the border. Double check your passport has blank visa pages and is valid for at least six months. Laos Ensure you have passport photos and the exact change for your visa. Visas for Laos and Cambodia must be paid in USD. Keep small bills such as US $1 in your pocket in case of any extra ‘fees’. Research when it’s busy, and avoid crossing on weekends and public holidays. If using private transport, the morning and the Insurance Tips afternoon are the busiest times to cross, as it’s when all the buses arrive. If you arrive at the border late you be charged extra fees for the inconvenience. Show respect, be patient and courteous. A smile goes a long way! Watch your bags at all times. Turn your back for a moment and they Water way to Chau Doc Vietnam might just disappear. Getty Images / gionnixxx 7 Visas Research and find out what currency you’ll need to pay for visas at the border, and if you need to apply for a visa in advance. & Overview Visas for Cambodia and Laos Contents In both Cambodia and Laos, most border crossings allow visas on arrival for visitors from most European countries, as well as the US, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand. Visas cost around US $35, but double check before you travel. Vietnam If you’re traveling on passports from Asian, South American, African, and Middle Eastern countries you should check to see if you need to Cai Rang floating market in Can Tho Vietnam apply for a visa before arrival. / Nina iStock Hilitukha Cambodia Visas for Vietnam if you need USD to pay for a visa. Vietnam allows certain European The border exchange rates on the countries, such as the UK, 15 days of Thai side of the Cambodian border Vietnam visa-free entry, although citizens of aren’t too bad, but it’s worth being allows certain other countries, such as Australia, the prepared so you can afford a snack European US and Canada, still need to apply from the 7/11 before the long drive to countries, such as the for visas before arrival. This can be Bangkok. UK, 15 days of done online as an e-visa, via a letter You can often find the best Laos visa-free entry, of approval, or by applying at the exchange rates at the local market, although nearest consulate before you travel. although it is worth shopping around citizens Some airports also offer visas to see who will give you the best of other on arrival to certain nationalities deal, and you should always check countries, arriving by plane, so it’s worth double for fake or torn bills. The bank and such as Insurance Tips checking your country’s requirements official exchange offices can also Australia, beforehand. change money, but the rates might the US and be higher. Download the XE currency Canada, still Currency exchange app to get the current exchange need to apply Change some money before you rate, to make sure you’re not getting for visas arrive in each country, especially ripped off. before arrival. 8 When to Go While high season has great weather and lots of local festivities, traveling during this time can be incredibly crowded and expensive. Use these tips to make sure you plan your trip & Overview for the best time of year. Contents Seasons to travel in Cambodia and Laos Cambodia and Laos have two Cycling outside Hanoi, Vietnam seasons; from November through Dinh Le / Hoach Unsplash April, you can expect sunny, dry Vietnam weather – especially in January and during this time (e.g. jungle trekking February. Monsoon season begins or kayaking), and, due to the when the winds shift between May flooding of roads, transportation can and November and the southwest be difficult.