ARTS-INFORMED INTERPRETATIVE PHENOMENOLOGICAL ANALYSIS: Understanding older men’s experiences of ageing through the lens of fashion and clothing ANNA MARIA SADKOWSKA A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of Nottingham Trent University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy April 2016 SCHOOL OF ART AND DESIGN 2 Table of Contents Copyright statement ................................................................................................................ 4 List of Images ........................................................................................................................... 5 List of tables ............................................................................................................................. 8 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .............................................................................. 9 ABSTRACT ................................................................................................... 10 1. INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................... 12 1.1 Chapter introduction ................................................................................................... 14 1.2 My background ........................................................................................................... 15 1.3 Format of the thesis .................................................................................................... 17 1.4 Aims and objectives ................................................................................................... 18 1.5 Structure of the thesis ................................................................................................ 19 1.6 Presentations, publications and exhibitions related to this thesis .............................. 23 1.7 Chapter summary ....................................................................................................... 26 2. CONTEXTUAL REVIEW ........................................................................... 27 2.1 Chapter introduction ................................................................................................... 28 2.2 Phenomenology, fashion and clothing ....................................................................... 30 2.2.1 Addressing clothing and fashion ................................................................ 30 Clothing ..................................................................................................... 31 Fashion ..................................................................................................... 33 The Body ................................................................................................... 38 Fashion and clothing ................................................................................. 38 Note on fashion and clothing studies ........................................................ 41 2.2.2 Phenomenological approach ...................................................................... 42 Phenomenology and the (ageing) body .................................................... 43 Phenomenology and clothing .................................................................... 47 Contemporary studies ............................................................................... 49 Note on Critical and Cultural Gerontology ................................................. 51 2.2.3 Summary .................................................................................................... 52 2.3 Older men, fashion and clothing................................................................................. 53 2.3.1 Exploring men and masculinities ................................................................ 53 Masculinity: historical background ............................................................ 55 Note on hegemonic masculinity ................................................................ 58 Defining men and masculinities ............................................................... 59 Ageing masculinities .................................................................................. 61 Representations of ageing ........................................................................ 63 2.3.2 Older men and fashion ............................................................................... 65 Men’s fashion ............................................................................................ 66 Ageing masculinities and fashion .............................................................. 68 Note on contemporary menswear ............................................................. 70 2.3.3 Summary .................................................................................................... 73 2.4 Chapter summary: situating the current thesis ........................................................... 74 1 3. METHODOLOGY: theoretical background and development .............. 77 3.1 Chapter introduction ................................................................................................... 78 3.2 Research aims ........................................................................................................... 79 3.3 Positioning myself in the work .................................................................................... 80 3.3.1 Epistemological position ............................................................................. 81 3.3.2 Approach to research ................................................................................. 82 3.4 Building methodology components ............................................................................ 84 3.4.1 Interpretative Phenomenological Analysis (IPA) ........................................ 84 Hermeneutics and the hermeneutic circle ................................................. 86 The double hermeneutic ........................................................................... 88 Relevant IPA studies ................................................................................. 90 Note on tacit knowledge ............................................................................ 92 3.4.2 Arts-Informed Research ............................................................................. 94 Defining elements of Arts-Informed Research .......................................... 96 Form .......................................................................................................... 97 Relevant Arts-Informed studies ................................................................. 98 Note on fashion and art ........................................................................... 103 Metaphor in research process ................................................................. 109 3.4 Chapter summary ..................................................................................................... 111 4. ARTS-INFORMED INTERPRETATIVE PHENOMENOLOGICAL ANALYSIS: practical application .............................................................. 113 4.1 Chapter introduction ................................................................................................. 114 4.2 Role of interpretation ................................................................................................ 115 4.2.1 My hermeneutics ...................................................................................... 116 4.2.2 Model ........................................................................................................ 118 Note on reflexivity .................................................................................... 121 Personal reflexivity .................................................................................. 122 4.3 Application ................................................................................................................ 125 4.3.1 Research settings ..................................................................................... 125 Sampling.................................................................................................. 126 Participants’ profiles ................................................................................ 127 From methodology to methods ............................................................... 128 4.3.2 Data collection .......................................................................................... 128 Pilot study ................................................................................................ 128 Interviews ................................................................................................ 129 Transcribing ............................................................................................. 133 Personal inventories ................................................................................ 134 4.3.3 Data analysis ............................................................................................ 140 IPA analysis ............................................................................................. 141 Image (outfit) analysis ............................................................................. 150 Practical explorations .............................................................................. 155 4.4 Chapter summary..................................................................................................... 169 5. PRACTICAL EXPLORATIONS: processes and artefacts .................... 171