VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of the Access Fund Fall 14/Volume 101 www.accessfund.org ROCK Project takes on the flood of new climbers page 8 COMMIT TO THE PACT 5 INSIDE SCOOP: HUECO TANKS 6 URBAN ROCK: GETTING CITIES AND TOWNS TO EMBRACE CLIMBING 13 AF Perspective “ UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It’s not.”—The Lorax he growing popularity of climbing and subsequent impact on the crags, cliffs, and boulders has been a highly publicized topic in recent months. T The discourse has run the spectrum from pointing fingers and blaming certain segments of the climbing community to a more optimistic message of “we are all in this together” that encourages all climbers to pitch in and take care of the climbing areas we love. I’ve had a number of conversations recently that confirm these varying perspectives, and despite the differences, most conversations ultimately lead to the question: If we know that climbing is increasing in popularity and that this increase comes with both threats and opportunities…what do we do about it? Is education the answer? At its best, education inspires, engages, and leads to action. At its worst, it feels preachy and disconnected, leading to discontent and blowback. Kurt Hahn, founder of Outward Bound, said that “indoctrination is of the devil.” The last thing that climbers want is to feel preached at or overregulated. Yet each of us lives within the tension of freedom and regulation that exists to protect our most precious natural resources. So, how do we reach out to the growing community of climbers in a way that builds bridges, not walls, and inspires the community as a whole to take care of our climbing areas and engage our sense of personal responsibility? The time is ripe to help shape what it means to be a “climber”—where the skills of movement, belaying, and safety go hand in hand with the skills needed to minimize our impact on climbing areas. I was hired in August of this year to spearhead the Access Fund’s new education initiative, ROCK Project, in partnership with Black Diamond Equipment. Climber education is not new, and ROCK Project will stand on the shoulders of the great educational efforts that are already inspiring and engaging climbers as stewards and responsible users of our climbing resources. ROCK Project aims to meet people where they are at—the climbing gyms, outdoor programs, events and competitions, retail stores, and our beloved crags, cliffs, and boulders—empowering climbers with the tools and knowledge to address our most pressing issues. We can’t “auto correct” our impact when we go climbing, but we can help climbers better understand the reasons for regulation and the sensitive issues impacting the places we climb, so that we can all do our part to better care for the climbing areas we love. With gratitude, Travis Herbert Education Director Cover image: Danika Gilbert ice climbing at Willow Lake, Sangre De Cristo Mountains, 2 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Crestone, CO | © Kennan Harvey Access Fund ACCESS FUND BOARD Travis Herbert OF DIRECTORS Education Director 303.545.6772 x102 OFFICERS [email protected] President, Mark Baum, VA Jason Keith Vice President, Kenji Haroutunian, CA Sr. Policy Advisor 303.818.2969 Treasurer, Ryan Gellert, Amsterdam [email protected] Secretary, Alex Kutches, WA Zachary Lesch-Huie National Affiliate Director & BOARD MEMBERS Southeast Regional Director Elaina Arenz, WV 828.545.7362 [email protected] Lyn Barraza, CA Mike Morin Jeff Buhl, CO Conservation Specialist Matt Compton, OR 720.624.6051 Peter Croft, CA [email protected] Ryan Gellert, UT Erik Murdock Policy Director Kenji Haroutunian, CA 720.588.3512 Jonah Harrison, WA [email protected] Jamie McNally, TX Amanda Peterson Conservation Specialist Perry Norris, CA 720.624.6051 Mark Synnott, NH [email protected] Brady Robinson HONORARY BOARD MEMBERS Executive Director Rick Accomazzo, CO 303.545.6772 x101 [email protected] Larry Gustafson, TX Joe Sambataro John Juraschek, NC National Access Director & Michael Kennedy, CO Northwest Regional Director 425.218.8234 Armando Menocal, WY [email protected] Dave Rosenstein, NJ Curt Shannon Bill Supple, VT Arizona Policy Analyst 480.382.1445 [email protected] ACCESS FUND STAFF Holly Smolenski Communications & Marketing Director Mandy Bishop 303.545.6772 x100 Office Manager [email protected] 303.545.6772 x104 [email protected] Anneliese Thies Development Associate Jim Chase 303.545.6772 x114 Operations Director [email protected] 303.545.6772 x107 [email protected] Ty Tyler Stewardship Director Peter Dodge 303.545.6772 x105 Membership Manager [email protected] 303.545.6772 x103 [email protected] GENERAL COUNSEL Leici Hendrix Chris Archer Development Director 303.545.6772 x106 [email protected] Alexis McLean climbing Hunchback Arete, Windy Point, Mount Lemmon Highway, Coronado National Forest, Tucson, AZ | © Kennan Harvey Fall 14 Vertical Times 3 News from the Grassroots Network Washington Climbers Step Up Wilderness Stewardship LCO 101: Building In September, Washington Climbers Relationships with Coalition (WCC), the Access Fund-Jeep Conservation Team, and the Mountaineers New Climbers joined forces with the Darrington Ranger District for trail work at Three O’Clock Rock Bringing new climbers into the outside Darrington, Washington. Forest Service staff and climber volunteers fold can make a tremendous constructed stone stairs, shored up a handful of drainage structures, and difference in your local climbing removed logs blocking the trail, which enters the Boulder River Wilderness a organization’s (LCO’s) education half mile from the trailhead. Keep up the great work WCC! and stewardship efforts. When climbers who are new to the sport understand access issues New LCOs in Montana and Pennsylvania and challenges early on, they The Access Fund is excited to welcome are much more likely to develop Western Montana Climbers Coalition into access-conscious climbers (WMCC) and Southwest Pennsylvania as they progress in the sport. Climbers Coalition (SWPACC) to the national But it’s not always easy to make network of local climbing organizations. those connections when age and WMCC is a nonprofit supporting climbing experience levels vary so widely. access, safety, and conservation. They are Here are some tips to help you currently working on stewardship and access at the Mill Creek area. SWPACC bridge the gaps and begin building was initially formed to protect an access point to Coll’s Cove, a popular relationships with new climbers. sandstone bouldering area pictured here. The group is working on nonprofit incorporation and protecting access to other areas in southwest Pennsylvania. • Be welcoming. Create messaging for your website, Taking Care of Muir Valley in the Red River Gorge social media, and events that This spring, landowners Rick and Liz Weber announced is welcoming to new climbers. plans to gift Muir Valley to Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV). Ask your volunteers and FOMV has been working hard to meet their fundraising board members to assume goal of $200,000 and is now over half way there with an inclusive attitude when $130,000 raised. FOMV also continues to ramp up representing your LCO. maintenance, stewardship, and management of the • Connect at the source. More area. Their recent trail day rallied more than 130 volunteers to build and maintain often than not, new climbers new trails, remove invasive species, and build a new bridge. Donate at are coming out of gyms and http://friendsofmuirvalley.org/donate. outdoor programs. Strike up partnerships with your local Iowa Climbers Coalition Going Strong climbing gyms and college It’s time to plan a climbing outdoor programs and ask for trip to Iowa! That’s right— the time or space to engage Iowa offers great climbing with new climbers. at places like Hoot Bluff, • Offer an invitation. Once Backbone State Park, and you’ve made the initial Pictured Rocks. These crags connection, invite new climbers are looked after by the Iowa to your next Adopt a Crag, Climbers Coalition (ICC), a board meeting, or social event. local Access Fund Affiliate, which completed their annual Pictured Rocks Adopt a Crag. Two dozen volunteers built a trail to the Gumby Wall, constructed belay platforms at Ship Rock, and installed a climbers’ kiosk at the trailhead. Nice work ICC! Learn more at www.iowaclimbers.org. 4 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Higher Learning THE PACT We are at a pivotal crossroads in climbing history—our sport is growing in popularity, and the sheer number of people climbing outside is having a tremendous impact on our climbing areas. The future of climbing access depends on us: the strong, passionate tribe of climbers who are committed to protecting the climbing areas we love. Join us and take responsibility for the places we climb. Commit to the ROCK Project Pact...and challenge your climbing friends and partners to do the same. I WILL • Respect other users. • Keep a low profile, minimizing group • Dispose of human waste properly. size and noise. • Park and camp in designated areas. • Pack out all trash, crash pads, • Stay on established trails. and gear. • Place gear and pads on durable surfaces. • Respect closures. • Clean up chalk and tick marks. • Be an upstander, not a bystander. COMMIT TO PROTECTING CLIMBING ACCESS www.accessfund.org/thepact #CommitToThePact #ROCKProjectFall 14 Vertical Times 5 Section THE INSIDE SCOOP: HUECO TANKS f you’re like most climbers, you pore over guidebooks for country’s top climbing destinations for valuable insight into weeks or even months when planning a climbing trip. You local ethics and issues. educate yourself on routes, descents, gear, and camping. I Destination: HUECO TANKS STATE PARK AND But what about the local ethics, issues, and challenges HISTORIC SITE, TEXAS at your destination crag? Part of being a responsible climber is knowing how to tread lightly—both socially and Local expert: SARAH MARTIN-ONTIVEROS, BOARD environmentally.