Northumbria Research Link Citation: Nakano, Yukie (2010) An evaluation of the potential for wider use of recycled synthetic materials in the UK High Street clothing markets: its drivers and barriers. Doctoral thesis, Northumbria University. This version was downloaded from Northumbria Research Link: http://nrl.northumbria.ac.uk/id/eprint/492/ Northumbria University has developed Northumbria Research Link (NRL) to enable users to access the University’s research output. Copyright © and moral rights for items on NRL are retained by the individual author(s) and/or other copyright owners. Single copies of full items can be reproduced, displayed or performed, and given to third parties in any format or medium for personal research or study, educational, or not-for-profit purposes without prior permission or charge, provided the authors, title and full bibliographic details are given, as well as a hyperlink and/or URL to the original metadata page. The content must not be changed in any way. Full items must not be sold commercially in any format or medium without formal permission of the copyright holder. The full policy is available online: http://nrl.northumbria.ac.uk/policies.html An evaluation of the potential for wider use of recycled synthetic materials in the UK high street clothing markets: its drivers and barriers. YUKIE NAKANO Ph.D. 2009 An evaluation of the potential for wider use of recycled synthetic materials in the UK high street clothing markets: its drivers and barriers. YUKIE NAKANO A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements of Northumbria University for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy June 2009 Abstract This thesis focuses on the potential to expand the markets for recycled synthetic materials, specifically focusing on the uptake of polyester recycling technologies and materials from the perspective of UK high street clothing retailers and Japanese recycled polyester textile manufacturers. Historically, textile waste or ‘shoddy’ has been ‘downcycled’ and used in products such as blankets, rugs or wipers. During the 1990s technological developments enabled the production of thinner and longer fibres from recycled polyester for clothing, particularly in outdoor wear, sportswear and uniforms. Advances in chemical recycling systems which return the fibre to its original raw materials state have led to the production of fibres of a quality equal to those produced from virgin material. Polyester is currently the only viable material which can be ‘upcycled’ and used in ‘closed loop recycling systems’. This research investigated the barriers and drivers affecting the adoption of recycled polyester in high street clothing markets, from the perspectives of UK high street clothing retailers, UK consumers, and world leading Japanese recycled polyester textile manufacturers. The study is exploratory in nature, and comprises a literature review, a street survey and industry surveys. The literature review was carried out in order to understand current thinking in the areas of sustainable fashion and technological development, particularly with regards to the production of recycled polyester. A street survey conducted in Newcastle gathered information from the general public in order to evaluate consumer attitudes towards clothes with recycled content, what affects their purchasing decisions when buying clothes, and their awareness of recycled clothing products in the market. The industry surveys were adopted to examine the views of five major recycled polyester fibre and fabric manufacturers in Japan and evaluate their perspectives on the potential for recycled polyester outside their current niche markets. Four major UK high street clothing retailers were interviewed in order to gain insights into their current practices for product development (in particular the materials selection process), to evaluate the level of environmental consideration they have when they develop products, and to test their readiness to use recycled materials. The findings are derived from previously unscrutinised barriers and drivers for the wider use of recycled synthetic materials in high street clothing retailers. Two key factors are identified: Japanese manufacturers need to create ‘closed loop’ recyclable synthetic fabrics that have excellent tactile and design qualities to appeal to the teams that source fabrics for clothing development. Clothing retailers need to recognise that it is possible to specify ‘closed loop’ fabrics but they need to connect this to clear design, business and sustainable development strategies. The contribution of this thesis based on the findings shows the potential to extend the recycled polyester market, based on advanced technology and socio- economical issues, the outlook of recycled textile producers, and public opinion towards clothes with recycled content. The key recommendation concerns the need to establish a long term commitment between clothing retailers and recycled fabric producers in order to develop desirable recycled fabrics for general and fashion markets. Further research is suggested on this basis. List of Contents CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION 1 1.1 Introduction 2 1.2 Rationale for Study 2 1.2.1 Ecological footprint 2 1.2.2 Waste and available landfill sites in the UK 4 1.2.3 Plastic (PET) bottles waste 6 1.2.4 Clothing waste 11 1.3 Research aims and objectives 11 1.4 Research design 15 1.5 Limitations of the research 17 1.6 Structure of the thesis 18 1.7 Contribution to knowledge 18 CHAPTER TWO: LITERATURE REVIEW 20 2.1 Introduction 21 2.2 Rationale for uses of recycled PET 21 2.2.1 Available options 23 2.2.1.1 Biodegradable polyester 23 2.2.1.2 Recycling technology 25 2.2.2 Recycled PET and its use 30 2.3 Clothing retailers 32 2.3.1 Changes of terms to ethical/sustainable fashion 33 2.3.2 Retailer campaign and initiatives 41 2.3.3 Clothing LCA studies 46 2.3.3.1 Waste minimisation and pollution prevention 51 2.4 Consumer 55 2.4.1 Fast and slow fashion 55 2.4.2 Consumption rate 57 2.4.3 Awareness towards environmental issues 58 2.4.4 Attitude towards eco-clothes 61 2.5 Conclusions 63 2.6 Emerging research questions 65 CHAPTER THREE: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 67 3.1 Introduction 68 3.2 Aims and objectives of the research 68 3.3 Discussion of research methods 70 3.3.1 Qualitative and quantitative approaches 70 3.4 Selecting appropriate methods 71 3.5 Exploratory phase 75 3.5.1 Literature review 75 3.5.2 Identifying contacts 76 3.5.3 Formalising the research questions 76 3.6 Main study phase 77 3.6.1 Street survey 78 3.6.1.1 Questionnaire development 79 3.6.1.2 Pre-testing the questionnaire 81 3.6.1.3 Determining a sample 82 3.6.1.4 Locating participants 83 3.6.1.5 Analysing and interpreting data 84 3.6.1.6 Validity and reliability 85 3.6.2 Industry surveys 85 3.6.2.1 Interview themes 88 3.6.2.2 Pilot studies 90 3.6.2.2.1 The participating respondents 90 3.6.2.2.2 The pilot studies results 91 3.6.2.3 Selecting companies and informants 91 3.6.2.4 Interviews 95 3.6.2.5 Direct observation 96 3.6.2.6 Analysing and interpreting data 98 3.6.2.7 Validity and reliability 99 3.6.2.7.1 Construct validity 99 3.6.2.7.2 External validity 100 3.6.2.7.3 Reliability 101 3.7 Summary and conclusions 102 CHAPTER FOUR: RESULTS OF THE STREET SURVEY 104 4.1 Introduction 105 4.2 Survey objectives 105 4.3 Pre-testing the questionnaire 105 4.4 Survey results 106 4.4.1 The participating respondents 106 4.4.2 In street survey results 107 4.4.2.1 Consumer reaction towards recycled materials 108 4.4.2.2 Public awareness towards eco-clothes 112 4.4.2.3 Shopping behaviour for clothing and eco-products 120 4.5 Conclusion of the street survey 134 4.6 Limitations of the survey and its findings 136 4.7 Discussion of the findings 136 CHAPTER FIVE: RESULTS OF INDUSTRY SURVEYS 140 5.1 Introduction 141 5.2 Industry surveys aims and objectives 141 5.3 Pilot 142 5.3.1 Changes made to the questions 142 5.3.2 Refinements 143 5.4 Industry surveys results 144 5.4.1 UK textile recyclers, sustainable fashion consultants and fibre 144 (Ingeo) consultant 5.4.2 Japanese recycled fibres manufacturers 148 5.4.2.1 Company background 148 5.4.2.1.1 Teijin Fibers Limited. 148 5.4.2.1.2 Toray Industries, Inc. 149 5.4.2.1.3 Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co., Limited. 149 5.4.2.1.4 Kurabo Industries Limited. 150 5.4.2.1.5 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation 150 5.4.2.2 Interview results 150 5.4.2.2.1 Description of recycled synthetic fibres 151 products 5.4.2.2.2 Technological developments of recycled 154 synthetic fibres 5.4.2.2.3 Quality and cost of recycled fibre and raw 157 materials supply 5.4.2.2.4 Recycled fibre’s current markets and potential 158 markets 5.4.2.2.5 Manufacture’s future views 161 5.4.2.3 Summary 163 5.4.3 UK high-street clothing retailers 165 5.4.3.1 Company background 165 5.4.3.1.1 Marks and Spencer Group Plc. 165 5.4.3.1.2 Arcadia Group Limited. 167 5.4.3.1.3 River Island (Lewis Trust Group limited.) 167 5.4.3.1.4 NEXT Retail Limited. 168 5.4.3.2 Interview results 169 5.4.3.2.1 Their approach for sourcing materials 169 5.4.3.2.2 Their strategy for developing products 172 5.4.3.2.3 Key drivers in the use of recycled materials 173 5.4.3.2.4 Recent changes for sourcing material 176 5.4.3.2.5 Retailers views on the current and future 177 trends of PET use in fashion 5.4.3.2.6 Reaction towards currently available fabric 180 samples 5.4.3.3.