1906 #32 Sailor Suit (Continuation) -- Costume Quartier – Maitre (Suite) Fig.3. – Col marin [Sailor collar]. – This collar completes the jacket of which the patterns were given to you in #31. It is cut from only one piece; the drawing gives us only half of the pattern. Therefore, when you copy this last, you will place it on the fabric folded double, the side of the pattern where are the words “pli du dos” [fold of the back], edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. You will make a hem all around; the dotted line marks the fold and you will embroider an anchor in the two corners. Along the neck, notice the two letters D and C. They are the points of connection with the patterns of the back and the front of #31 (fig.2). Fig.2. – La jupe [The skirt]. – The drawing here gives you only one small portion of it, but it is sufficient since the skirt is made in the same way. This skirt is composed of a band of fabric on the straight thread having 8 centimeters in height and 75 centimeters length, without counting the seams, hems, and folds. It is thus necessary to begin by making a band having 11 centimeters in height and 75 centimeters length; once these pieces are assembled, then make the hem at the bottom by folding up 2 centimeters; then fold the skirt into knife pleats, which you carefully baste one by one in their length. By looking at the engraving, the pleats to make are the width of the fold made in the engraving; you see, by the part lifted at the bottom, how it is made. When you have thus placed your band from one edge to the other, you will make a seam bringing together these two edges to close the skirt half of its height. Thus made, the skirt should not have more than 75 centimeters circumference. One irons on the wrong side on a damp cloth to mark the pleats well, then one fits the waistband on a small ribbon which must have exactly the same length as the circumference of the little bodice. The skirt must be assembled almost flat in front, and gathered only a little on the sides. All the remainder of the fullness is brought to the back. Then, only, one removes the bastings from the pleats, which, are retained by the waistband ribbon, flaring gracefully at the bottom. Here is the dress completely finished such as you saw in fig.1. Translation copyright 2010 Deirdre Gawne. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com .