FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. 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Volume 2, from top to institution, publication, service, or indi- graphic, electronic, or mechanical, in- bottom, Public Domain, © Gianni Dagli vidual does not imply endorsement by cluding photocopying, recording, Orti/CORBIS, National Archives and the editors or publisher. Errors brought taping, Web distribution, or informa- Records Administration; large photo, to the attention of the publisher and tion storage retrieval systems—without the Smithsonian Institute. Volume 3, verified to the satisfaction of the pub- the written permission of the publisher. from top to bottom, © Historical lisher will be corrected in future editions. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA Pendergast, Sara. Fashion, costume, and culture: clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages / Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast; Sarah Hermsen, editor. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-7876-5417-5 (set hardcover)—ISBN 0-7876-5418-3 (v.1 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5419-1 (v.2 : alk. paper)—ISBN 0-7876-5420-5 (v.3 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5421-3 (v.4 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5422-1 (v.5 : alk. paper) 1. Costume—History. 2. Fashion—History. 3. Body marking—History. 4. Dress accessories—History. I. Title: Clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages. II. Pendergast, Tom. III. Hermsen, Sarah. IV. Title. GT511.P46 2004 391’.009—dc22 2003015852 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Contents ■ ■ ■ Entries by Alphabetical Order . .xxvii Entries by Topic Category . .xli Reader’s Guide . .liii Contributors . .lvii Timeline . .lix Words to Know . .lxvii ■ ■ ■ Volume 1: The Ancient World PREHISTORY Prehistoric Life . .1 Clothing Overview . .5 Headwear Overview . .9 Body Decorations Overview . .11 Footwear Overview . .13 ANCIENT EGYPT Ancient Egypt . .15 ■ v ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Unraveling the Mystery of Hieroglyphs (box) . .18 Clothing Overview . .21 Kalasiris . .24 Loincloth and Loin Skirt . .25 Penis Sheath . .27 Schenti . .28 Tunic . .29 Headwear Overview . .31 Headdresses . .32 Pschent . .34 Wigs . .35 Body Decorations Overview . .37 Collars and Pectorals . .38 Fragrant Oils and Ointments . .39 Jewelry . .40 Kohl . .42 Footwear Overview . .45 Sandals . .46 MESOPOTAMIA Mesopotamia . .49 Clothing Overview . .53 Fringe . .55 Shawl . .56 Headwear Overview . .59 Turbans . .60 Veils . .61 Body Decorations Overview . .63 Footwear Overview . .65 Sandals . .66 vi ■ FASHION, COSTUME, AND CULTURE CONTENTS ■ ■ ■ INDIA India . .69 Clothing Overview . .75 Burka . .76 Chadar . .78 Choli . .79 Dhoti and Lungi . .80 Jama . .82 Punjabi Suit . .83 Purdah . .84 Modern Islamic Dress (box) . .85 Sari . .87 Uttariya . .89 Headwear Overview . .91 Turbans . .92 Body Decorations Overview . .95 Foot Decorating . .96 Forehead Markings . .97 Henna Stains . .99 Jewelry . .100 Piercing . .104 Footwear Overview . .107 Chappals . .108 Jutti . .109 Khapusa . .109 Paduka . .110 ANCIENT GREECE Life in Ancient Greece . .113 Clothing Overview . .119 Chlaina and Diplax . .122 Chlamys . .123 Doric Chiton . .124 Himation . .126 Ionic Chiton . .127 ■ CONTENTS vii ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Loin Coverings . .129 Military Dress . .131 Minoan Dress . .132 Peplos . .134 Headwear Overview . .137 Phrygian Cap . .139 Pilos and Petasos . .141 Sakkos and Sphendone . .142 Wreaths . .143 Body Decorations Overview . .145 Cameo and Intaglio . .146 Fibulae . .147 Jewelry . .148 Makeup . ..