EXPLORING THE NEW YORK SLOW FASHION VALUE CHAIN: LOCAL ANIMALS, FIBERS, AND KNITWEAR A Thesis Presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School of Cornell University in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts by Helen Xiomara Trejo August 2014 © HELEN XIOMARA TREJO 2014 ABSTRACT This study explores the prospective development of a Fibershed in the strong fiber community of New York. It draws inspiration from the Northern California Fibershed project. “Fibershed” is a reference to fiber farms, mills, and artisan studios that support regional clothing cultures and economies. The first part of this study explored the diversity of NY fiber farms, with a focus on current marketing strategies implemented by 67 fiber farmers. The second part of the study implemented fiber farmer’s marketing strategies into a consumer survey for locally produced wool, alpaca, and cashmere knitwear. Nine marketing conditions were developed that presented basic information, emphasized local production, and the individuality of the fiber animals. Findings from 250 NY women suggested that the marketing strategies do not influence product evaluation. However, other variables including product personality, user image congruence, and consumer ethnocentricity positively influenced product evaluation. Findings from the consumer survey highlight the difficulty marketing fiber products online, especially among a consumer market that prefers to touch fiber products before purchasing. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH Helen is a first generation Salvadoran-American. She was born in Los Angeles with her twin sister, Nidia, in 1990. Both grew up watching their mamita and mami sew clothes for them throughout their childhood. Her father’s creativity and expert skill in setting tile throughout many homes in Los Angeles contributed to Helen’s creativity. Her interest in fashion design developed when she was 10 and drew hundreds of fashion sketches. She learned how to sew when she attended Downtown Magnets High School, an open magnet school that offered fashion elective courses that mimicked a “mini-major.” Helen attended the University of California— Davis to earn her Bachelor of Arts degree in Design with an emphasis in Fashion Design, and minors in Textiles & Clothing, and Writing. At UC Davis, she gained first hand experience with sustainable design. The holistic commitments of faculty and peers to creatively reduce waste to minimize environmental impact inspired Helen to conduct undergraduate research in sustainable fashion practices. During her junior year at UC Davis, she was accepted into the McNair Scholars program, a graduate preparatory program for underrepresented students. She learned how to conduct undergraduate research, and gained insight from U.S.-based designers who upcycle second-hand clothing and textiles. Helen’s senior thesis combined sustainable design theory with practice in her collection Constructed that drew inspiration from the home her papi helped build for her family in 2003. While implementing zero-waste pattern making techniques, her papi’s work influenced the color palette and shapes of the collection. In 2012, Helen pursued her Master’s degree in Apparel Design at Cornell University, and was accepted into the Ph.D. program in 2014. iii DEDICATION I dedicate this work to my parents, Betty and Rene Trejo who have always encouraged me to pursue my interests in fashion design and higher education. I also dedicate this to my twin sister Nidia, and loved one David Arellanes. iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to give a special thanks to Professor Tasha Lewis for her support and expert guidance to link academic research with real-world issues and solutions. I would also like to thank Professor Michael Thonney for his support and feedback throughout my research process. I also gained extensive insight about natural resource management, agroecosystems, economic development in rural areas, and participatory research with farmers from Professors Terry Tucker, David Lee, and Richard Stedman. I appreciate the feedback and support from my apparel design cohort: Kristen Morris, Alana Staiti, Yingying Wu, Autumn Newell, Yuxiao Zhang, Keith Fraley, and Mary Claire Nemeth. And apparel design faculty who have provided suggestions and feedback: Professor Charlotte Jirousek, Susan Ashdown, and Huiju Park. I would also like to extend a special thanks to New York community members who have supported my research. Kiko Nobusawa, my knitting teacher who guided me through the creative process of making the prototype sweater for the consumer survey; professional knitwear designer Wendy Bernard; and owner of Knitting Etc. Hickory Lee. Fiber farmer, Lisa Ferguson, who welcomed me to visit her farm on multiple occasions; as well as fiber farmers Andrea and Russell Wade, fiber farm-mill owners Jay and Suzanne Ardai; Karin Kennedy and Mary Jeanne Packer. I would also like to thank community members beyond New York including fiber farmers Kathryn Tessmer, Jay Begay; fiber artisans Courtney Siperstein-Cook, Marlie De Swart, and Monica Paz Soldan; Fibershed founder Rebecca Burgess, and administrator Dustin Kahn. I thank them for their responsiveness and willingness to share their expertise regarding the links between clothing and agriculture. v I received extensive technical assistance from Keith Jenkins, Jay Barry, and Francoise Vermeylen, and am very grateful for their patience and support. I also received a Fiber Science & Apparel Design grant, and summer support that helped me progress by covering travel, materials, and participant incentive expenses. I would also like to acknowledge my UC Davis family including Professors Susan Kaiser, Ann Savageau, Susan Avila, James Housefield, and UCD graduate student alumni Carol Shu, Margot Bennett, and Joanne Brasch for being inspirational role models. Also, thanks to my UCD McNair cohort who continuously inspire me as they navigate through their graduate programs, and reach their educational goals. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH …………………………………………………...……….. iii DEDICATION……………………………………………………………………….…… iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS………………………………………………………….…… v CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION Fast Fashion………………………………………………………….….... 1 Slow Fashion……………………………………………………….…...... 3 2. DIVERSIFIED AGRICULTURE: U.S. FIBER FARMS Disentangling the Rural-Urban Binary…………………………………… 9 U.S. Fiber Farm & Mill Infrastructure…………………………………..... 11 Fiber Community Visibility……………………………………….....…… 12 3. EMERGING STABILITY ANIMAL FIBER CLOTHING ECONOMIES Consumer Market…………………………………………………............ 14 Global Fashion & Textile Industry Partnerships…………………………. 15 New Zealand Trade & Enterprise Certification………………….. 16 Icebreaker………………………………………………………… 16 Eileen Fisher……………………………………………………… 17 Global Marketing Strategies……………………………………………… 18 Domestic Fashion & Textile Partnerships………………………………... 18 4. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORKS Cradle to Cradle & Fibershed “Soil to Soil” model………..……….……. 20 U.S. Fiber Farm Cycle………….………………………………………… 22 Shifts in U.S. Animal Fiber Farm Clothing Economies…….……. 26 Homespun Age…………………………………………… 26 Industrialization………………………………………….. 29 Fiber Market Competition……………………………….. 30 Globalization of the Wool Textile Economy…………….. 32 Global Efforts to Re-establish Wool……………………… 34 U.S. Fibersheds…………………………………………… 35 Micro-level Solution……………………………… 37 Fibershed Consumers…………………………….. 40 Macro-level Solution……………………………... 42 5. NEW YORK FIBERSHED Physical Infrastructure…………………………………..……………….. 45 Social Infrastructure…………………………………..………………….. 46 6. RESEARCH STUDY Preliminary Research…………………………………………………….. 54 Netnography……………………………………………………… 54 On Farm Visits……………………………………………………. 58 Part 1: NY Fiber Farm Survey Methodology………………………………………….…………... 59 Survey…………………………………………………..... 59 Sample…………………………………………………..... 59 Findings…………………………………………………………... 60 Marketing strategies………………………………………. 60 Fiber Characteristics……………………………… 61 Fiber Animal Heritage……………………………. 62 Individualization of Fiber Animals……………….. 64 Ecological Significance & Animal Welfare……… 65 Local Production………………………………..... 66 Limitations……………………………………………………….. 70 Part 2: NY Consumer Survey Methodology……………………………………………………… 71 Experimental Design…………………………………….. 71 Pilot Study………………………………………………... 82 Hypotheses……………………………………………………….. 83 Findings Sample…………………………………………………..... 86 Results…………………………………………………..... 88 Product Personality……………………………….. 88 Reliability & Validity of Scales………………….. 92 Hypotheses 1……………………………………… 94 Hypotheses 2……………………………………… 96 Hypothesis 3……………………………………… 97 Discussion of Results………………………………..……………. 99 Limitations………………………………………………..………. 101 7. FUTURE OF U.S. FIBERSHEDS Links with Fashion Cities………………………………………………… 102 Fibershed Slow Fashion Sustainable Brand……………………………… 104 Role of Cooperative Extension…………………………………………… 109 Financial Assistance……………………………………………………… 112 8. CONCLUSIONS Future Research………………………………………………………….. 115 APPENDICES…………………………………………………………………………… 116 REFERENCES…………………………………………………………………………… 202 LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1: Conceptual Fibershed “Soil to Soil” model……………………………………. 21 Figure 2: Holling’s “Ecosystem Cycle Model”………………………………………….. 23 Figure 3: U.S. Fiber Farm Cycle Model…………………………………………………. 24 Figure 4: Shift of sheep and wool industry ……………………………………………… 28 Figure 5: Global Fiber Production in 2007…………………………………………..…… 31 Figure 6: Global Demand for Wool Clothing Declined over past 5 years……………….. 33 Figure 7: Conveys declining U.S. demand for wool……………………………………... 34 Figure 8: California Amount of Sheep