or 124 years the venerable Thurn's has supplied bacon and smoldering log that he identifies as mulberry. "Bet you didn't know banter to customers from allover Columbus and points it could grow that big." I didn't. "Mulberry darkens the meat and Fbeyond. gives it a fruity taste," Albert continues. "Bur I use only oak for the hams-they get too dark with the mulberry." Every week of every year, fourth-generation owner Albert Thurn orchestrates the curing, smoking and prepping of 500 pounds Thurn's contracts with local tree trimmers for all the red and white of sausages and 700 pounds of fresh, cured and smoked meats, oak and mulberry that they cut. It lies in a pile in a lot behind the crafting his products Monday through Wednesday, and selling them plant, drying for a year before it is ready for use. Also behind the Thursday through Saturday. Located at the Greenlawn Avenue exit plant and across the side street is the brick farmhouse that Albert's ofI-71 , Thurn's houses a roomy store in the front of the building, grandfather built in 1926, that Albert now owns. Though the traffic and a large plant and smokehouse in the back. on 1-71 rumbles a hundred yards behind us, and Greenlawn Avenue in the front bustles with cars, Albert's neighborhood is strangely Generations of Columbus residents have linked the name Thurn's bucolic. to the intoxicating aroma of smoked meats and the image of a long, well-stocked meat counter manned by smiling Thurn family "It feels remote-so peaceful," Albert says. He waves a dismissive members who greeted them by name-and not only them, but their hand at the freeway. "I don't even hear that any more. I sit out on parents and grandparents. (See the sidebar "The History Behind the back porch and drink a Yuengling, and I feel like I'm a thousand Thurn's of Columbus" for a family history.) miles away." A MEAlY DRAMA IN TWO ACTS SAUSAGE MAKING: A REAl GRIND Thurn's on a Wednesday morning is already two days into Act 1: Back inside, Albert introduces me to the hulking stainless steel The Prep. The high-ceilinged, ceramic-tiled plant is pulsing with chopping machine for wieners and bologna, which require a finer purposeful activity when I step through the door to be greeted by grind than the coarse, garlicky German bologna. Albert's fa ther Albert Thurn. He is a dark-haired, cheery man in his 50s, dressed purchased the machine in the '30s. "The original Cuisinart," Albert like his three co-workers in a yellow rubber apron and high rubber says with a smirk. "We also call it the buffalo chopper or the silent boots. cutter." This must be meat guy humor, because the machine comes on a few minutes later with the roar of a jet engine. While employee John Malaney labors to keep the tile floor and stainless steel vats spic and span, and Albert's brother Anton grinds "And this is my dad. He's 86." Robert Thurn nods at me from the and seasons sausage, Albert shows me some of the fruits of their stainless steel table where he mans the sausage-stuffing machine. labor so far this week, rings and rounds of meat simmering in "I bought the business in 1988, but Dad still comes in four days a outsized kettles mounted on legs. week, from 6am to 11am." Evidently in the Thurn world, retirement means an extra hour for the senior wurstmacher to loll in bed. "This is braunschweiger," he says, pointing to a ring of sausage, "and these"-a trio of small netted hams bounce merrily in the While Albert checks his meats, I chat with Mr. Thurn, who deftly bubbling water-"are cottage hams." Albert explains that simmering slides 40 feet of locally so urced, translucent sausage casing onto the the already smoked meats like hams cooks them to a high enough feeder of the sausage machine and creates a string of fresh sausages temperature to make them safe for eating. The hams, of course, have also been previously brined, a process that takes up to 10 days. Kettles of weisswurst, salami, knockers and some dozen or more lunch meat varieties each cook to a different temperature for a different length of time, all monitored by Albert, whose grasp of multi-tasking would test a Harvard business school grad. (See sidebar "A Guide to Thurn's Selection" for a detailed explanation of the products in the Thurn family's repertoire.) SMOKEHOUSE SECRETS Then there is the smokehouse, a cast-iron chamber at the back where the meats are hung from rolling metal racks and smoked behind a cast-iron door. A rack of just-smoked ham hocks, bacon and neck bones waits nearby to be sliced, flesh as dark and shiny as mahogany. Outside, Albert stokes the fire beneath the smokehouse from a small exterior door. He opens it to reveal a pit of white ash crowned by a The Thurn brothers while he reminisces about his World War II service under Patton. of a process that began at 5am on Monday wi th the "boning out" of the 1,200 pounds of pork shoulder, pork belly and beef fro nts "You don't find our type of small establishments anymore," he from which all the Thurn products are created. On Tuesday, sausage remarks. "People come from counties around to buy Thurn's ." Mr. making commences at 4:30am, and with Anton's help, Albert works Thurn finishes stuffing his second 40-foot length of pork intestine. until 10:30pm, making dozens of sausage varieties and hanging the ''I'm retired, but I still like to come in. I love the craft." meats that will be smoked. INTERMISSION The cold smoking, which raises the smokehouse to a temperature of 150° Fahrenheit, begins Tuesday evening and continues through Next Albert directs me to the two-room walk-in cooler where the night. On Wednesday morning the smaller pieces of meats are the finished meats hang. When I admire the weisswurst, a pale, removed, and the steam coils are turned on to continue smoking the mildly flavored sausage, Albert immediately wraps some for me to larger meats at a higher temperature of210-220°, the hot smoking. sample. A gigantic ham floats in one of the brining buckets, its bulk Finally, the finished meats are stored in the cooler. concealed underwater like some meaty iceberg, and Albert fishes it out for my perusal. "This is the grand champion hog of the 2010 "When the last meat comes out of the smokehouse and into the Ohio State Fair. The buyer sent it here to make ham and bacon out cooler, ready to go for Thursday, that is the best feeling," Albert says. of it." I decide that the hog has come to a fine end. "All the bright colors of the meat make you feel good-everything is blooming." The walk-in cooler represents the last step A GUIDE TO THURN'S SELECTION Thurn's prepares an impressive variety of meats, using a combination of traditional methods and recipes passed down from great-grandfather Alois Thurn, with some new additions by Albert, who has doubled the varieties of brarwurst and added new tastes like teriyaki, as well as the smoked cheese line. The pork (and 90% of the meat Albert buys is pork) comes from Ohio's largest pork producer,]. H. Routh Packing Company in Sandusky. Because A selection of Thurn's specialty meats. Below: The Thurn's sausages. of Routh's high quality and consistency of Hams Sausage product, Thurn's has used their meat since 1980. "They are still a family firm, not a Hams are brined (cured), smoked and then Sausage (wurst) is a general name for any conglomerate, which is unusual for an outfit simmered to a safe eating temperature. A meat product that is ground and spiced. their size," Albert says. "Their pork comes large cut of meat like a ham can be fully Some of Thurn's sausage is all pork, some is primarily from family farms in northern smoked, which amounts to cooking it at a pork and beef. Summer sausage is generally Ohio, and a few hogs from Canada." Thurn's low temperature for a long time until it is larger in diameter and more heavily smoked. beef comes from Keystone Meats in Lima, safe to eat, but "most people find the taste It was originally intended to be eaten in the also a family-owned firm that processes meat too smoky." (A word about ham salad, which summer, and the smoking prevented spoilage from Ohio farms. in most establishments is composed of the in the warm weather. Bratwurst is sausage dried up ends of lunch meats, ground and that is meant to be fried. Fresh sausage is I swooned for Thurn's spicy Andouille stuck together with salad dressing: Albert's unsmoked and uncooked. sausage, which we ate in a lentil soup. ham salad is actually made of ground-up The cottage ham went into a soup of fresh ham! It is popular and delicious.) On offer: green beans and potatoes and brought back delicious childhood memories. My husband • Cottage hams (small, smoked then and son declared the landjager, a kind of finished by simmering in water) beef jerky, a winner, but they didn't leave • Smoked baked hams (smoked and then me any to sample. The bacon starred in a finished by simmering in water) BLT and the smoked cheeses (two cheddars, a Swiss and a very spicy hot pepper) were • Smoked hams (smoked from start to outstanding.