South beach and castle, Aberystwyth Aberdovey to Aberystwyth 25 No. 25 | Grade A | 15km | OS Sheet 135 | Tidal Port Liverpool Start Aberdovey Beach and slipway (613958) Finish Aberystwyth Harbour (580809) HW/LW at Aberdovey are around 3 hours before Liverpool, and at Aberystwyth are around 3 hours 30 minutes before Liverpool. Tidal times In the mouth of the Dovey Estuary the west-flowing ebb begins around 2 hours 45 minutes after HW Liverpool, the east-flowing flood begins around 4 hours 30 minutes before HW Liverpool. Along the coast, the south-going stream starts around 1 hour after HW Liverpool, the north-going stream starts around 5 hours before HW Liverpool. Tidal rates The maximum rate along most of this section is 2 knots, although in the entrance of the Dovey Estuary the spring rate can be as much as 4 knots. berdovey to Aberystwyth A Coastguard Milford Haven, Tel. 01646 690909, VHF Weather 0335 UT. Aberdovey/Aberdyfi is a busy seaside town that caters for thousands of holidaymakers each year. The Dovey Yacht Club and nearby Outward Bound Centre have ensured that there is a strong tradition of maritime outdoor pursuits in the area, and the rolling scenery that surrounds the estuary provides a wonderful backdrop to a relaxing day on the water. When the Atlantic swell 139 Aberdovey, the beach and slipway Aberdovey, runs in from the south-west, the beaches and sandbanks at the mouth of the estuary roar with 25 surf. The tall cliffs and wave-cut platforms betweenBorth and Aberystwyth will challenge the avid rockhopper and amaze the keen geologist. This scenery is a taste of what is to be found further along the coast in north Pembrokeshire. Unlike the Pembrokeshire and Lleyn Peninsula coasts, tidal streams are weak and so the paddling here tends to be of a less serious nature. Description Aberdovey is on the A493 between Dolgellau and Machynlleth. There is a large car park beside the beach, adjacent to the Dovey Yacht Club and slipway. The mouth of the estuary is sheltered by Aberdovey Bar, which extends almost 2km from the north shore. If you are in the mood for some surfing fun in your kayak, Aberdovey Bar may be just the place, especially if the beaches are crowded with swimmers and board surfers. At the southern entrance to the estuary lie the sand dunes and nature reserve of Ynyslas. The main focus of work at the reserve is the conservation of the dune habitat and its insects and wild flowers. The flowers are at their best during late spring Aberdovey to Aberystwyth when some rare species of orchid can be seen. The reserve extends to the north into the shallow waters of the Dovey that provide rich feeding for thousands of birds including shelduck, ringed plover and curlew. The sandy beaches stretch away over 5km to the south, towards the little town of Borth. Along the beach between Ynyslas and Borth the petrified remains of an ancient forest can be seen when low spring tides reveal tree stumps, branches and even twigs. These ancient remains are of trees that grew here when sea levels were much lower than now, at the end of the last ice age. Some similar remains can be found closer to the town of Borth. 140 The seafront and sandy beach at Borth are well equipped to serve the needs of tourists. There is a good deal of car parking along the promenade and public toilets. There are also plenty of shops and cafés making this a good alternative start or finish to a shorter trip. Upper Borth sprawls across the hillside to the south of the seafront. The monument that stands high on the cliffs is a memorial to the local villagers who died in the First and Second World Wars. At one point, the memorial was badly damaged by a lightning strike. It was rebuilt a short distance back from the edge of the decaying cliff to prolong its dominating existence. It is these cliffs beyond the village where this coastline takes on a far more dramatic mood. The cliffs between Borth and 25 Aberystwyth are a surprise to most who paddle this coastline for the first time. The layers of Llandovery mudstone and sandstone were laid down in the Silurian period around 430 million years ago. Sometime later, these layers of rock were tipped up by massive tectonic forces. The powerful action of the sea has since cut a steep face into the rock, forming a series of smooth slabs that rise to over 60m in places. The base of these cliffs has berdovey to Aberystwyth receded over time leaving almost level A wave-cut platforms. These platforms are revealed close to low water and are riddled with shallow lagoons and gullies, which can be exciting places for rockhopping and even snorkelling. After 3km the coastline begins to soften to lower cliffs and 141 Borth Mudstone slabs near shingle beaches and a river valley at Wallog. It is here that one of Cardigan Bay’s subtler geological 25 features is revealed. Sarn Cwynfelyn is a bank of boulders, pebbles and shingle that extends out to sea for more than 9km from the shore. It is made up of glacial deposits left by receding ice sheets at the end of the last ice age. The Welsh word ‘sarn’ means ‘causeway’ and there are other examples such as Sarn y Bwlch close to Tywyn and the largest, Sarn Padrig (St Patrick’s Causeway) which extends over 16km south-west from Mochras Point, near Harlech. Sarn Cwynfelyn is central to the legend of an ancient Welsh kingdom long lost beneath the sea. In times when sea levels were lower, there were huge expanses of low-lying rich pasture that supported the wealthy kingdom known as Cantre’r Gwaelod, meaning ‘the bottom hundred’. The whole area was protected from the sea by a series of dykes with sluice gates to let drainage water out to sea at low tide. The man whose job it was to open and close the sluices was a heavy drinker, and one stormy night neglected to close the sluices as the tide rose. Sea water quickly flooded in and Cantre’r Gwaelod was lost forever. The legend says that if you stand on the furthest point of Sarn Cwynfelyn at low water on a quiet Sunday morning, you may be able to hear the ghostly bells Aberdovey to Aberystwyth of Cantre’r Gwaelod tolling from beneath the sea. Clarach Bay lies between Sarn Cwynfelyn and Aberystwyth and inflicts an awkward break in the wilderness as the land beyond the beach is packed with static caravans and holiday homes. However, the last kilometre to Aberystwyth is reminiscent of the cliffs and wave-cut platforms close to Borth, with the added excitement of several caves. These cliffs eventually become the seaward side of Constitution Hill, which marks the northern end of Aberystwyth promenade. In calm conditions the north beach is a pleasant place to land at the end of the day. There is limited parking along the Victorian promenade and there are nearby public toilets and cafés. 142 Dovey Estuary In rougher weather, when swell runs in from the west, there can be dumping surf on this steep shingle beach in which case landing will be easier in the harbour 1km to the south. The castle 25 ruins, old university college building and war memorial stand on a low headland, which divides the north beach and promenade from the south beach and harbour entrance. The college building was started in 1865 and was originally intended as a hotel, but before work could be completed the scheme ran out of money. The unfinished structure was bought by the Welsh National University Committee at a fraction of its cost and housed what was to become the first University of Wales. The entrance toAberystwyth Harbour lies at the southern end of the south beach and landing is straightforward on the shingle beach or slipway adjacent to the university boathouse. The university boathouse is on the road named Pen yr Angor, which is off the A487, south of the bridge over the Afon Rheidol. Tide & Weather The tidal streams in this area are generally weak and can be paddled against, apart from theDovey berdovey to Aberystwyth A Estuary. In the estuary the flood tide can reach 3 knots, the ebb can reach 4 knots especially after periods of heavy rain. Additional Information There are shops and cafés along the promenades of Aberdovey, Borth and Aberystwyth. There is also a youth hostel on the promenade at Borth, Tel. 0870 770 5708. 143 Old boatyard, Frongoch, Dovey Estuary The Cae Du Campsite is 11km north along the coast from Aberdovey. It commands a 25 marvellous view across Cardigan Bay and has direct access to the beach (566059), Tel. 01654 711234. However, landing and launching from here can be difficult due to steep shingle banks at high water and boulders at low water. Variations The trip along this coastline can be done in either direction to suit prevailing weather conditions. Borth is a good alternative start or finish for a shorter trip. The sheltered waters of the Dovey Estuary are frequently used by the Dovey Yacht Club and the Aberdovey Outward Bound Centre. A short trip along the north shore of the estuary becomes possible during the hours around local high water. The rolling landscape lacks the drama of the Dwyryd and Mawddach estuaries but the abundant bird life more than makes up for that! Aberdovey to Aberystwyth 144.