1 for the indian traveller 2 • May–september; low season: Very hot along the coast, until the rains arrive from June to Dos and Don’ts Need to Know September. However, the greener eastern parts For detailed information, see Travellers’ Helpdesk on p240 are at their freshest best. Expect huge discounts. Do attempt to learn a few words of Malayalam. It will take First Time in Kerala you a long way with the locals. Quick Facts If confused by a map, take languages advanCe planning: directions from local shops or Malayalam, English, Tamil and some Hindi. • two to three months before: Book your traffic police. accommodation, flights/trains, as prices swell Try the local food. Seafood Mobile ConneCtivity during peak season. Chalk out a rough itinerary. along the coast and the veg Major operators like Airtel, BSNL, Vodafone, • one month to three weeks before: You may Idea and Aircel provide service through want to alter your plan after a quick check of sadya (p32) are especially the state. In hilly regions like Munnar, national parks (sometimes closed for the rains), tasty. Thekkady and Wayanad, you are likely to trekking routes and festivals at this stage. get signals sporadically. Make an effort to conserve • one week before: Look out for fabulous water and natural resources. internet Access deals with flexi pricing resorts. Draw up the Internet booths are available in market final itinerary. Confirm bookings. Stock up on Respect the different medicines you need. Arrange for pick-ups at ` religious beliefs and customs. areas ( 10–20/30min), but most hotels airport or station, or car rentals. offer wi-fi facilities on the house. Dress appropriately in religious HEALTH & SAFETY places. ATMs • Medical aid: Well-stocked medical shops and Though Federal Bank has the widest reach Leave your footwear outside standard hospitals are present in most big towns, within the state, you will also find HDFC, the house. but hard to find in the plantations and forested ICICI, SBI and Axis Bank ATMs easily. areas. Carry enough prescribed medication. tourist inforMation • travelling alone: Kerala is fairly safe. If you are Tourist Facilitation Centre, a single woman, be alert and follow the rules of Don’t ridicule words or % safety you would in your own hometown. Though Thiruvananthapuram ( 0471 2321132; accents that you do not Museum Road). Offices in all major cities. locals are extremely helpful, use your instincts. understand. What to paCk Important nuMbers Abstain from loud opinions • A necessity in Police %100; ambulance %108; Caps, dark glasses, sunscreen: on food and culture. % % the frequently hot weather. fire station 101; women helpline 1091 Don’t walk out midway, use • Mosquito repellent and leech socks: Mosquitoes love Kerala’s lush environs, so be sure your cell phone or disturb Waterways are a major to carry a repellent. Plantation areas and trekking others in the audience during a When to Go form of travel routes are breeding grounds for leeches during culture show. the rains. You may want to invest in leech socks. The weather in Kerala is warm and humid, barring the Follow the rules of taking eastern hilly regions. It rains copiously during the monsoon, and high summer months • Walking shoes and flip-flops: Comfy sneakers photographs at cultural shows are intensely hot. are ideal in hilly places like Munnar and Wayanad, while beach destinations demand airy flip-flops. or at religious sites. • october–february; high season: This is when the weather is at its coolest and prices of all accommodation at their highest. Though still warm in the day, the evenings can • Warm clothing and umbrellas: Carry a light Strictly avoid making a noise get chilly. If travelling to the hills (Munnar and Wayanad) carry a light jacket. You may jacket for evenings in coastal areas; you’ll need or littering in wildlife parks. encounter rain in late October with the retreating monsoon. something heavier in October–February for Bargain with tact, especially the hills. A sturdy umbrella in June–September is • March–april; mid-season: These two months get low tourist activity on the coastline, a must. with local craftspeople. but the higher regions are still packed with travellers as schools close after exams. © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sample chapter All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. 3 for the indian traveller 4 deity or hero portrayed, of which 12 Top Experiences there are more than 450. The costumes are magnificent, with face paint, armour, garlands and huge headdresses. The performance consists of frenzied dancing to a wild drumbeat, creating a trance- like atmosphere. The best areas to see Theyyam performances are in the villages around Kannur (p162), Bekal (p166) and Kasaragod (p166) between October and April. 3 Boat-building Yards, Beypore The traditional craft of dhow (boat) building is still practised in Beypore (p155), a quaint little village close to Kozhikode. The sheer architectural feat of creating these massive wooden beauties is accomplished without any complex machinery or blueprints – it’s through plain ingenuity and 1 Backwaters on a Houseboat practical knowledge passed on from generation to generation. Watch the team piece together these vessels that eventually leave the shores for Middle It is not every day you come across a place as sublime as Kerala’s Eastern countries. backwaters: 900km of interconnected rivers, lakes and glassy lagoons lined with lush tropical flora. And if you do, there likely won’t be a way to experience it that’s quite as serene and intimate as a few days on a teak- and-palm-thatched houseboat. Float along the water – while nibbling on seafood so fresh it’s still almost wriggling – and forget about life on land for a while. The distinctive houseboats that cluster around the main hubs of Alappuzha (p87), Kumarakom (p98) and Kollam (p106) are designed like traditional rice barges or kettuvallam (‘boat with knots’, so-called because the curvaceous structure is held together by knotted coir). 2 Theyyam Theyyam, Kerala’s most popular ritualistic art form, is believed to pre- date Hinduism. The word refers to the ritual itself, and to the shape of the Sample chapter © 5 Kochi & Around 6 Kochi & Around Why Go? Serene Kochi (Ernakulam, Fort Korchi and a knot of tiny islands) has been drawing traders and explorers to its shores for over 600 years. Nowhere in India could you find such a cultural mix. Thrissur is the cultural hub of Kerala where performing arts flourish and Guruvayur is famous its centuries-old Sree Krishna Temple. Getting There & Away air: Cochin International Airport, the most convenient air node for the region, is well connected to all the main cities of the country. Frequent flights are available by major carriers such as Air India, IndiGo, Go Air, Jet Airways and SpiceJet. bus: For overnight rides from Bengaluru, Mangalore, and Chennai, book Volvo buses from private operators. They may cost 75% higher than government services but are very comfortable. From Bengaluru, Karnataka State Road Transportation Corporation (KSRTC) services are timely and reasonably priced. train: Ernakulam has two stations – Ernakulam Town and the Ernakulam Junction – both linking it to several major cities. The Kerala Express (12626) from Delhi, Kanyakumari Express (16381) from Mumbai and the Ernakulam Express (12677) from Bengaluru run daily. Thrissur and Guruvayur are also well connected through Ernakulam, via multiple trains plying within the region. Check for train timetables and schedules on www.irctc.co.in. Chinese fishing nets are a unique contraption seen only in Kerala © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sample chapter All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. 7 ErnakulAm 8 Ernakulam Ernakulam might as well have been the capital of Kerala with its urban character and commercial significance. Bursting out of its narrow streets is a chaotic mix of unruly traffic, Lego-like residential areas and official buildings. This hectic transport and cosmopolitan hub serves as a good stopover for shopping and a quick dose of culture. For a more heritage- filled holiday atmosphere, head to Fort Kochi, but try and spend some time at Ernakulam to see the kerala folklore Museum and the durbar hall art Centre, and also take in the pleasures of a walk around Marine drive and the shoping centre at MG Road. 1 kerala folklore MuseuM Highlights Here lies an incredible private collection 1 kerala folklore Museum of traditional masks, theatrical costumes, Avoid Sundays as it’s a hot spot for locals and the queues are Marine Drive 2 hill palace Museum artefacts, sculptures and art, packed into rather long. is a popular hangout for 3 Sri poornathrayeesha an absorbing three storeys. Better than tripunithura; adult/child/camera/video `20/10/20/150; the locals temple many government establishments, the 9am–12.30pm and 2–4.30pm 4 durbar hall art Centre museum has more than 5000 artefacts 5 Ernakulam shiva temple and covers three architectural styles: 3 sri poornathrayeesha teMple (ernakulathappan temple) Malabar, Kochi and Travancore. A Twelve kilometres from the centre of town, the Sri 6 Marine drive visit here is time well spent. Check for Poornathrayeesha Temple lies close to the Hill Museum at 7 Edappally Church classical dance performances at the Tripunithura.The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is 8 Museum of kerala history beautiful wood-lined theatre; these take popular amongst childless devotees who come here to pray 9 Wonder la place sporadically, depending on daily for an offspring. It is also known for its small school that a Cherai beach bookings. teaches young boys the art of playing temple percussions.