C H R I S T I A N S AT M E C C A AUGUSTUS BALLI I LLUST RATE D ‘ A t fl u; da those w ho know a n E u r o ea n has tr ied y, that y p to r M or the most a rt believ e tha t B u r ton a lone each ecca , f p G H G H . O ART LO N D O N WILLIAM HEINEMANN I 9O9 ' P RI NCI PAL GATE OF THE MOS! UE AT M a m a Fr om koto m h b Gem a is- Cou r tellemon t in Ii i /1 a m azon a p g p y . October 1 0 8 . 3 , 9 C H R I S T I A N S AT M E C C A AUGUSTUS BALLI I LLUST RAT E D A t is da s who know a n E ur n ha s r i d th y , tho e that y opea t e r M or m s r oelzev e B u r n l n to each ecca , f the o t pa t that to a o e su d d —D G H O I’ ‘ G AR H . ccee e . LO ND O N WILLIAM HEINEMANN I 9O9 Co ri ht Lon do n T d 13 I LLI A M H E I NvE M A N N py g , , o d, 37 W P R E FA C E MY obj ect i n the following pages has b ee n to ’ a give narrative of each pilgrim s adventures , and a summary o f h is observations o f the people o f Th s of Me cc a and the condition the city . e e h to a are the things t at change from age ge . What do not c ha nge are the rites o f the Pil r n c o f G r grimage and the appea a e the eat Mosque . h s n H aving, therefore , described t e e in the ope ing h v o m i d o f ch chapters , I a e tte , in the case ea i ndividual traveller , all but personal and charac ter istic touches . AS I write fo r the general reader I hav e not adopted the ultra correct m etho d o f spelling ’ F 1 z . 0 s u B a aa w Aa ra h Arabic names word s ch as , , ’ (fl/a h r Bea ou zn will be found the mo e familiar , A ra bs, A llah . C O N T E N T S 0 1. M ECCA . I I . TH E G REAT M OS! UE H A P I GRI M GE . I I I . TH E L A ( J ) N I V . M EDI A D V I O B ARTE MA 1 0 V . LU O C , 5 3 I N EN T LE L N 1 68 V I . V C B A C , 5 LD 160 O N N WI . V I I . J HA , 7 OSEP P I TTS 1680 V I I I . J H , DI Y LEB LI C 180 . ALI B E Y E L ABB SS I IX . BA A H , 7 ( A ) LLRI PER E ETZE N 1 0 —10 . U S S 8 . H X CH JA , 9 ( AJ M OOSA) . — N L D IG R K RDT 1 8 1 1 . OH X I J U W BU C HA , 4 5 ( S HAYK H H A! I B RAH I M) G I OV N N I FI N ATI 18 1 . H O MMED X I I . A , 4 ( AJ M HA ) — . EON R O ES 18 1 2 . H M R X I I I L CH , 4 ( AJ O A ) A W N 1 . E RGE G T LLI W LI G O S S 8 . XIV U U U A , 45 ( A - AL DIN ) . N 18 . S S IR R ICHARD BURTO , 53 ( HAYK H HAJ A B DALLAH) H EI N RI FREI ERR V ON MALTZAN 1860 XVI . CH H , . (S IDI A BD- E R R OC H MA N B EN MOHA MMED E s S K I K DI ) CONTENTS N o . PA G E M N K N 18 2 - H ER I ELL 6 . H A B D E L XVI I A B C , ( AJ WAH ID) N FRYER KE N E 1 8 — M O 8 . H O XV I I I J H A . 7 7 ( AJ MMED AM I N HA ) . C RI STI N S N OUC K H U R GR ON E 1 88 . X I X . H A J , 5 ’ (A BD - E L- G A EFA R ) - LLE M G ERV I S COURTE ON T 18 . AB D LL XX A , 94 ( A AH ) I S ELL N EO S . XXI . M C A U — XXI I THE H EJAZ R AILWA Y CON CLU S I ON . B I B LI OGRA P H Y I N DE X LIST OF ILLUSTRATI O NS PR I N CI P AL GATE OF THE M OS! UE AT M ED I N A F r on tispzece ' F r om a photog r aph [31 Ger 'ua z s- Cou r tellemon t in “ ' s n October 1 0 8 L I llu tr a tzo , 3 , 9 VI EW OF M ECCA “ t r a h b C S n ou ch H u r r on e in B i d r u s F r om a pho og p y . g j l e a Mehha . TH E M OS! UE A N D KAABAH ’ a oto r a h b C S no uch H u r ron e z n l aer a us F r om ph g p y . g j ZVI ehha VIEW O F M ECCA “ Fr om a hoto r a h b C S nouch H u r r on e in x p g p y . g j B elder a u M ehha C OURT OF M OS! UE AT M EDI N A ' F r om a photog r aph 19! Ger v a zse- Cou r tellemon t z n L I llu str a " tzon October 1 0 8 , 3 , 9 COURT OF M OS! UE S H OWI N G TH E KAABAH ' ’ Fr om a hoto r a h b S nou ch H u r n p g p y C. g r o je z n B z laer a u s JOH N LEWI S BURC K HARDT S OUTHER N WALL OF M OS! UE AT M EDI N A ’ Fr om a photog r aph by Ger zza zs- Cou r tellemon t z n L I llustr a ion o t Oct ber . 1 0 8 , 3 , i 9 x LI ST OF I LLU STRATI ON S TH E N I CH E B E FORE WHICH M OHAMMED P RAYED “ ’ F r om a photog r aph by Gerv a zs- Cour tellemon t z n L I llustr a " tion October 1 08 , 3 , 9 THE MAI N S TREET OF M EDI N A LEADI N G To THE M OS! UE “ ’ F r om a photog r aph by Ger v a zs- Cou r tellemon t z n L I llustra ” tion October 1 0 8 , 3 , 9 N O K H R R ON . C . S UC U G J E C H RISTIA N S A T ME C C A M E C C A ’ IT would be o finterest to know how far Macaulay s schoolboy was a cquainted With Mecca . That it th e is the centre Of the, Mohammedan faith and o f object a Pilgrimage, seems to exhaust popular knowledge . I once expressed to a friend my Op inion that a visit to Mecca would be o f in comparable i nterest ; in reply he advised me not h to make t at visit during the Pilgrimage . When I rejoined that no Christian might look o n the o f and a holy city Islam live , he sked in astonish ment if the prohibition extended even to Cook ’s tourists ! A D 0 . Mohammed was born at Mecca about . 57 I n his fortieth year he became conscious of his divine mission . The reforms which he proposed to initiate were ill pleasing to the ruling tribe , K r sh o e . known as the y Persecuted , and his life o f in danger , he fled to Medina . From the year A. D. 622 o r his flight , , dates the H egira Moslem . o f era Well received by the people Medina, and surrounded by his friends , he proceeded to 2 CH RISTI AN S AT M ECCA t e r . A. D propaga , his doct ines by the Sword In . 629 he returned triumphant to his native city ; and that year saw the decree that no U nbeliever sh ould thenceforth set foot in Mecca . I f w e except the story of the Englishman dis covered by the authorities and expelled as an o f idiot, no infraction this decree , once brought to light, has had other than tragic consequences .