Hanoi On the streets of Hanoi J NASH J OTOS: OTOS: H P growingThe vine The liberalisation of trade in Vietnam and changing demographics in society have spurred a new wave of wine appreciation in the country. Chris Canty talks to some of the pioneers behind this trend ake a stroll through Hanoi’s Old the pioneer of Vietnam’s wine industry and demographic of Vietnamese who sought high- Quarter and French district and don’t owner of the Vine Wine Boutique Bar & Café quality wine rather than culturally popular be surprised to see framed wine lists featuring Vietnam’s largest wine list, has similar beverages like cheap beer and strong spirits, did T displayed prominently at fine dining impressions. When he arrived in 2000, “the wine restaurants and wholesalers begin to offer better restaurants or small boutique wine shops located lists in the hotels and restaurants were dismal,” and better merchandise. among traditional Hanoi businesses. he says. “The US$4 yellow label Bordeaux 1994 Stores such as the Warehouse and the goliath The Vietnamese might now have a great was everywhere, and I didn’t even believe this supermarket Metro were quick to enter the choice of wine, but it never used to be like this, disgusting product came from French grapes.” game and stock up on an impressive range of And no one knows about the early trials of The Vietnamese interest in Bordeaux was seen high quality wines to a public that for the first Vietnam’s wine industry more than the small as a remnant of the previous French occupation time could afford it. first wave of expats who created the trend where drinking it was associated with the Berger (who described the current climate as almost single-handedly. upper class, but the terrible quality and the fact “another world”), as well as a select few of other When Bobby Chinn, owner and chef of one that most wine was often left under the hot expats, were clever in choosing the inventory of the city’s most well-known restaurants Bobby Vietnamese sun in open markets angered those to import, bypassing the majority of Old World Chinn, came to Vietnam from California in who knew better. regions, instead paying special attention to New 1994, wine selections were extremely limited. “I Berger even suggests that the Bordeaux World wines from Australia and South America remember a red wine from the Czech Republic. they drank “wasn’t a Bordeaux but a fabricated that were the result of excellent crops. It drank like a red wine vinegar, so we added alcoholic beverage created to deceive a And wineries were also eager to enter the 7-Up and vodka to turn it into a Sangria,” naive market”. relatively untapped Vietnamese market. Darren he says. “The attitude was ‘You’re in Vietnam, It was not until the last few years, when Gall, of the Wise Winery in Margaret River, beggars cannot be choosy’ .” Vietnam started to further open up to Western Australia, explains why he decided to Donald Berger, considered by many as foreign trade, which in turn spawned a new send his wine to Vietnam. “The framework and 42 | SEPTEMBER2006 BUSINESS TRAVELLER ASIA-PACIFIC The growing vine Hanoi Le Beaulieu GRAPE VENUES RESTAURANTS Bobby Chinn With his eponymous Bobby Chinn restaurant, overlooking Hoan Kiem Lake, the chef- restaurateur introduced hip chic dining (note the contemporary Vietnamese art on the walls) to a town that was ripe for the concept. His wine list features great Californian labels to suit his noticeably California-style cuisine. CONTacT: 1 Ba Trieu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, tel 84 4 934 8577 Green Tangerine Metro This beloved French-Vietnamese restaurant, housed in an old colonial French building in the heart of the Old Quarter, has welcomed a long line of dignitaries including Jacques Chirac. But despite the prestigious clientele, dining here is surprisingly affordable. As the cuisine is French inspired, so is the wine list with regions such as Roussillon, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Loire and Alsace represented. Wines from Australia, Chile and South Africa are also available. CONTacT: 48 Hang Be, Hanoi, tel 84 4 825 12 86 Le Beaulieu For atmospheric dining, this restaurant in Vine Warehouse the five-star Sofitel Metropole Hotel is the visitor’s usual first port of call. While Hanoi’s signposts for increased or potential increased past three years, Berger points to the staggering respected Chef Didier Corlou no longer works wine consumption are there for all to see; the success of the country’s rice and coffee full time here, he still holds the position of chief opening up of the economy, a burgeoning production as an example that “Vietnam will be consultant overseeing the menu that lightly middle class, higher personal wealth, growth in able to some day produce a significant amount blends traditional French with Asian. The wine international education, growth in international and quality of grape-based wine.” list is excellent starring a variety from Australia, tourism and growth in international trade.” But even if the standard isn’t quite there yet, New Zealand and Chile. But most guests growingvine What’s interesting is that instead of drinking the fact that more Vietnamese wine is available come for the unparalleled range of fine French any wine, the Vietnamese have developed a taste in stores is good for the industry. Roger Gaffney, wines, including standouts from Bordeaux for the premium award-winning variety, which manager of the Warehouse, says domestic wines such as the Château Mouton Rothschild, Gall attributes to the status symbol of being “are very important, as not only are they an Pauillac (1990) at US$1,000 per bottle. seen with a fine wine, rather than the European important niche agricultural export product, they CONTacT: Hotel Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo culture of drinking wines produced in bulk to also serve to further bridge the gap between the Quyen Street, tel 84 4 826 6919 accompany daily meals. more traditional spirits and beer”. Kien Nguyen, a local solicitor who spent six But while industry expats are to be thanked Vine Wine Boutique Bar & Cafe years in Australia, returned to Hanoi to find for Vietnam’s wine industry, they realise that it Hanoi’s “home of wine” doubles as one of an array of options. “In the past, I only found is the Vietnamese themselves who are the key the country’s best restaurants. Owner Donald ordinary French wine in Hanoi, but in Australia, to the future. Berger, Chinn and Gaffney all Berger has carefully selected over 1,000 I developed a taste for their wine that was of a conduct seminars and tastings and regularly varieties from Western Australian, Canada far better quality. Back here, I was told about the train their local staff at least once a month, giving and Chile to choose from. Vine’s elegant cellar Warehouse and continued my love of quality the locals a better understanding of what they room can accommodate up to four diners. Its New World wines. There is an excellent choice are drinking and serving. Vine Annex hosts wine tastings, lectures and now in Hanoi.” Wine growers such as Alison Kelly of the special events at least once a month. Coinciding with this development is the Fermoy Estate in Western Australia, also makes CONTacT: 1A and 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, increasing popularity of Vietnam’s relatively the effort to teach the locals with regular trips Hanoi, tel 84 4 719 8000 unknown labels. Produced mostly in the fertile to Vietnam acknowledging that “there is a lot of Da Lat region, local varieties have traditionally education that needs to be done to help the sales RETAIL been ridiculed, with the reds being described as people representing us”. Warehouse tasting like dirt, and the whites something even With more choice, more aficionados of the Among the city’s huge expat community as more unpleasant. grape and more money entering Vietnam than well as local aficionados, it’s known as the Even now, Chinn says diplomatically: “I use ever before, when looking at the apparent place to head to for both Old and New World it for my red wine sauces and braising. Give it rosy future of the country’s wine industry, who varieties as well as familiar French labels. The more time, and I am sure I will be marketing it better to ask then the person most regarded as staff is well trained in offering suggestions. and selling it to customers. Everything needs responsible for starting it? Berger says: “Hanoi Wine tastings and workshops are offered. time.” now has a very vibrant wine appreciation CONTacT: 59 Hang Tong, Hanoi, tel 84 4 Having judged Vietnamese wine at the culture. The Vietnamese market and appreciation 928 7666 International Wine Challenge Vietnam for the for wine is growing faster than a vine.” n BUSINESS TRAVELLER ASIA-PACIFIC SEPTEMBER2006 | 43 Hanoi HanOI HOTELS SOFitel Hanoi Daewoo Hilton Hanoi Melia Hanoi Sheraton Hanoi Hotel OPera MetroPole Hotel What’s it A repository of Vietnamese art, Graceful columns and mansard A well run establishment Lush gardens and tranquil A must for any first-time like? featuring 2,000 paintings and gables shout Paris, but the that has all the tools required courtyards create an visitor to Hanoi. One of the sculptures. Has hosted Clinton interiors are thoroughly, by the discriminating unexpected oasis – great few hotels that has remained and Putin among others. unmistakably Oriental. business traveller. especially after a packed day. true to its colonial past. Where In the business and diplomatic In the heart of the business Centrally located in the Along the city’s picturesque In the heart of Hanoi, near is it? district overlooking Thu Le district and near major business and diplomatic West Lake, 10 minutes Hoan Kiem Lake and the Lake and 10 minutes from office buildings, government district, with its own parking from the downtown and 25 Opera House.