Kalymnos MiniGUIDE HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR MiniGUIDE This MiniGUIDE is designed to be printed and compiled into a compact book- let. For best results it should be printed on good quality A4 paper using a by Nick Smith and Alan James modern colour inkjet printer. Version 1.2 - October 2003 PRINTER SETTINGS Fold pages down - Choose Landscape printing on a the centre Good quality colour setting. - Initially print at at full size (100%). - Ensure that any options such as Shrink oversize pages to paper size Thank you for downloading this are UNCHECKED. ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE. We hope that - Select any options to you find the information useful, inspir- Maximize printable area. ing and accurate. Our intention is to - Select any options to Centre printable area. Printed sides (See Problems below) facing outwards provide many more MiniGUIDEs which will help open up new areas for travel- PRINTING ling climbers. We also hope to provide - Do not print page 1 (this page). affordable sampler guides to estab- - Print page 2 (the cover) on strong paper, photo lished areas and to extend existing paper or white card. - Print the rest of the pages on good quality paper. coverage with newly developed crags. Print-on-demand means that we will be ASSEMBLING able to keep the MiniGUIDEs continu- - Fold each internal page separately ally up-to-date but to do this we need down the middle so that the printed sides Insert separate folded your feedback. Please send any com- are facing outwards. pages inside cover page ments you have to feedback@rock- - Assemble the pages, with the folded center edge outwards, into a small booklet. fax.co.uk. - Wrap the cover around the pages and insert two Your subscription to this MiniGUIDE staples in the spine. Staple includes free updates within the same spine main version number. PROBLEMS - With some printers (especially Hewlett Packard) it is difficult to get the pages to centre properly. If Thanks again for your support. this happens then fold down the printed centre line and trim off the excess paper. Alan James, October 2003 - If the pages are being cropped then try printing at 95%. KalymnosKalymnos Holiday sport climbing inin thethe GreekGreek IslandsIslands DNA (7a+) in the Grande Grotta. Page 27. Photo: Nick Smith KALYMNOS MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com Kalymnos MiniGUIDE The perfect sport climbing destination with great weather, fantastic rock formations, an endless supply of superb bolted routes at every grade by Nick Smith and Alan James and all within walking distance of a swim in the sea and some fine Greek cooking! Turkey Photos - Chris Dainton, Nick Smith and Alan James Greece Kalymnos is the fourth largest island in the ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Dodecanese chain of Greek islands, which include Kos Thanks for comments and feedback to - Mark Glaister, Lee Proctor, Athens and Rhodes, and is situated close to the Turkish main- Steve Golley, Chris Dainton, Karsten Kurz, Steve McDonnell, Jo George, land. It is only a small island but it packs a lot in with Kos Dave Cuthbertson, Rob Stone, Neil Gresham, Adrian Berry, Tomasz Ratajczak amazing range of routes on its limestone cliffs and its and all those who offered comments in Steve’s Bar in April 2003 size makes it ideal for getting around without a hire car. Historically it is known for its sponge diving and honey Version 1.2 - October 2003 but both of these have fallen on lean times in recent years and the main industry here now is tourism. 200km Crete Climbing started on the island in 1997 and ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. has taken off in the past couple of years with Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2003 new crags and routes being developed at a feverish pace. The best of the climbing at the Emborios COPYRIGHT NOTICE moment is concentrated around the small All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic, tourist town of Massouri, a 20 minute taxi ride Larger map mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher. from the island capital and ferry port of Pothia. on page 4 This file has been branded as belonging to the registered user of the ROCKFAX web site Many quality 1 and 2-pitch sport routes from Arginonda shown below. The entitles the individual to free updates of the same file within the same fine 4+ slabs to overhanging 8b stamina-fests Armeos version number. Any illegal copying of this file by any electronic, mechanical or other have been developed, with some spectacular Massouri means negates this entitlement. Please help us fund more MiniGUIDEs by not distributing climbing available on tufas and stalactites and Myrties this copy. Even if you think you are just printing out an extra copy for one of your friends there is huge scope for future development of Vathis do you really know who your friend will give it to? Kantouni Chorio many more sport routes and longer mountain Beach routes. Autumn and Spring are the best times FOOTNOTE for climbing with most crags in the shade until Vothini Pothia The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right of mid-afternoon allowing you to enjoy a well- deserved siesta on the beach, or a swim in access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this 5km MiniGUIDE are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the sea after a hard morning of climbing. the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard Total should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that GREEN ORANGE RED BLACK Route Type Character Page Contents Routes to 4+ 5 to 6a+ 6b to 7a 7a+ up climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on Arhi 35 3 20 10 2 8 this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. Kastelli Rock + Run Voucher 21 4 14 0 3 12 Click here to claim your £5 Voucher* Odyssey 61 2 12 23 24 16 at the Rock + Run online shop Grande Grotta 78 3 12 38 25 22 This voucher is valid until 04-Nov-2005 www.rockfax.com/miniguides/ *Voucher valid for single purchases of £50 or above. Full terms at http://www.rockrun.com/core/terms.html Poets 18 0 9 9 0 31 Registered to lebouc REF be62f3f8 KALYMNOS Version 1.2 - October 2003 1 KALYMNOS Version 1.2 - October 2003 Registered to lebouc REF be62f3f8 MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com KEY LOGISTICS MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com BRITISH TRAD GRADE Sport UIAA USA Symbol Key (including poorly protected routes) Grade A good route Mod Moderate Diff A very good route Difficult VDiff Very Difficult HVD Hard Very Difficult 1234567890abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ A brilliant route Sev BOLD Severe 3c HS BOLD Hard Severe 4b 4a Technical climbing involving SAFE VS Very Severe complex or trick moves 5a BOLD 4b SAFE HVS BOLD Hard Very Severe Powerful moves 5a 5b requiring big arms E1 BOLD SAFE 5c 5a Sustained climbing, either SAFE E2 BOLD long and pumpy or with 6a 5b lots of hard moves SAFE E3 BOLD 6a 5c Fingery climbing - SAFE BOLD sharp holds! E4 6a 6b BOLD Fluttery climbing SAFE E5 with big fall potential 6b 6c BOLD Clare Bates on Medusa (6a+) at Arhi. Page 11. Photo: Chris Dainton A long reach is SAFE E6 6c BOLD Getting There helpful/essential 6c Option 1 - Chartered flights to Kos are available from most major airports for £100-£200 6c E7 BOLD SAFE between April and October. Once you have landed take a bus or a taxi to Mastichari (12 Colour-coded route number 7a grade bands: 7a E8 Euros) and then catch the ferry to Pothia on Kalymnos (3 Euros, takes 45 mins). Tickets BOLD SAFE are available at the box office next to the port. The ferry travels between Mastichari and 7a E9 7a 1 - 4+ and under Pothia three times a day leaving Mastichari at 9am, 5.30pm and 10pm, and returning SAFE 2 - 5 to 6a+ from Pothia at 7am, 4pm and 8pm. The ferry doesn’t sail when the wind is blowing so 7b E10 3 - 6b to 7a SAFE allow plenty of time if the weather is bad. If your flight arrives in Kos late at night, it may 4 - 7a+ and above 7b be hard to find a bed in Mastichari so ask your taxi driver for open hotels or phone ahead SAFE and book a room. Hotel KYMA +30 242 59045 or Hotel Mastihari Beach +30 242 59252 www.air-travel.co.uk - www.flightsavers.co.uk - www.cheapflights.com Best Time of Year www.charterflights.co.uk - www.teletextholidays.co.uk - www.bargainholidays.com It is possible to climb all year round but the best times are September to the end of www.holidaysbyphone.co.uk - www.flightline.co.uk October, and March to the end of May. Winter is a possibility although it could be cold and There are also flight and accommodation packages available for under £300. As long as finding accommodation and places to eat will be more of a problem outside the tourist you end up in, or near, Massouri then these can be the cheapest option and you also season.