A DEPARTMENT FOR WELL-DRESSED MEN By ]. Herbert Hodgins UNIFORMS VERSUS TAILS pretty hard competition -these khaki and airforce blue u 'f now appearing in all the smart spots. But the Men Behind uni forms have to have a little bit of fun, too, and I'm glad they are c~ rnes / IT'Sforth to hold their own :n civilian garb. Tails appear to be +he blng 1 answer to. uniforms, and m~st men look therr best in +~em too. I a: ' a little b1t t1red of hearmg shorter men decry tails. Some g t I positively frightened to wear them. To tell the truth, the aver ore ' shorter man looks BETTER in tails than he does in a drnner ~~: Granted that a tall man looks pretty smart 1n tails, doesn't he 1~ 1 k I pretty well in anything he puts on 7 But no reason why the fi ve-foote~s should feel abashed. They would look very well rn tarls, too, if the would give them a chance. The answer is- as ndeed its the a nswey to all men s clothing questions - perfect fit. The shorter ma n should Ihave his formal outfit made with extreme care. The coat should be well fitted, as in any man's suit. But the shorter man should have his tail coat a HIGH FITTED model- meaning that the warstline should be cut on a higher-waistline line than his elongated brother. The result is a longer leg line, the desired effect. Also the length of the tails becomes doubly important on shorter chaps. Tall-and-handsome 1 generally wears his tails about two inches BELOW the bend of the knee. The shorter man should not allow his tails to be longer t han his I knees, and the trousers should not be full but very well tapered. You .five-foot-four-inchers should consult your tailors about th1s important matter. You'd be more than pleasantly surprised to drscover how Iwell you'll look in well-cut tails, if you'll only give your tailor a chance. EING well dressed is not only a mere matter of clothes. Some men Bare happier in tails, others in dinner clothes. Whether you are ' six feet four inches or five feet five inches, the answer 1s: How do you feel? Nonchalance, backed by good tailor1ng, is the best solution to figure difficulties. The recent Horse Show, 1n New York , (where Icompetition from uniforms is nothing to worry about ... but OH those 1 Mounties!) brought out about a fifty-fifty ratio of dinner jackets and tails. And it really starts to look os if men are catching on to the Ifact that derbies should NOT be worn with the semi-formal clothes. · But, of course, you'll always see a few blithe souls contJnurng to make I this grievous sartorial mistake. BE YOUR AGE I ID you ever ~top to think that men are often as guilty as women Dabout choosing 'other-age" clothing? Too often we see young fellows trying to add to their years with suits and accessories that I would look much better on their fathers. On the other hand, we see elderly men who trick themselves out with iuvenile togs that would OTHER, Dad, and all the family can romp 1 look much better on their grandsons. lt is quite a knack to be able M and play ... enjoy the great outdoors to to dress according to your age, but the results are generally so much the uunost, when comfortably attired in Deacon better that it is worth the effort. Your tailor and haberdasher a re Igood !ri?nds to you, in these matters. They have the knowledge, ~nd Spans Togs. And Deacon tested fabrics c:nsurc what IS rust about as important, the COURAGE to tell you to be your age." freedom and cozy protection in any weather. ALWAYS LOOK FOR Your dealer is now displaying exciting new THESE LABELS PEOPLE STILL GO SOUTH I Deacon styles for } oung and old. Step in and sec LORIDA and other sun-kissed spots are lookrng forward ~o 0 them today. Fbumper season. For, of course, Europe is "out" as far as wrnter resorts go. I hear from my New York correspondent that southerd attire is continuing to go vary South American ish, both for_ men ant women. As the Rivieras will not be actively concerned w1th resor styles, as in peace times, we can expect an interesting tendency toward developing our own styles this side of the Atlantic. IF YO U' RE BROAD SHO ULDERED .•. OU are; WI:;Q to OVOid the raglan overcoat, for the raglan ~~ee~e Yadds bulk to the natural shoulder line, and heavier men l1 e k avoid this effect. The more sharply determined sleeve heads brea &ELLEVILLE, C A N A 0 A up this brood shoulder line and add to the weare~'s grace: . he By the way, I was interested to remember agarn the or1g1n oft st raglan coat. A certain English nobleman, Lord Raglan by name, H his arm on the field of bottle and hod to wear a wooden arm. e lvl ayfair, January, I 940 5 A DEP~RTMENT FOR WELL-DRESSED MEN loood ft dHfiw~ to gel mlo the Hghl-fitt;"g ove.oool <leave, <o he I worked out the loose -fitting coat style with his tailor. Grateful posterity reworded the ingenious chop by coll1ng this very popular 1ifo;rns model after him. 3 lines 0 ming CHECKING UP SOME FAULTS e best I 9et S I M always preachmg, ;ts the little things that count in a man's j e ore A appearance. This point was brought home to me ve•y strongly 'eroge the other day, when I met o one-t·me wealthy man, who is making a r suit. slow, but sure, comeback. I hadn't seen him for a long t1me and was e look very happy to meet him, os well os to appreciate his good-looking :loters garb. ''Nice tie," I said conversationally. "Yes,'' he said. "That's one f they item I learned not to econom1ze on. I always liked nice ties and generally paid around $5 for each one. When the sheriff moved in, nswer I tried to content myself with cheap ties. But I soon found out that the ;hould effect on me was psychologically bad. So I economized on o~her 1ld be things and went back to my 'pound' ties. The t1es gave me courage ve his that I sadly needed. Oh, yes," he concluded, ''and o shoe shine a hould day helps the morale wonderfully, too I hod always token such result things for granted ... " I left him, thinking how true the trite saying: 1 tails While clothes don't make a man, they often help h1m to become a some better one. rf the - DON'T, if you ore heavy through the waist, allow your trousers m his to be on the narrow side. When they hang fairly full, they do much You to hide that middle tire ... rtanl -DON T wear a striped suit, striped shirt and striped tie all at I how one time . lnce. -DON'T wear your trousers so low that there is a gap between the bottom of the vest and the top of the trousers ... -DON'T wear your coat sleeves os long os your shirt sleeves .•. j men - DON'T wear very light hosiery with dark colored suits ... ore -DON'T allow a dress waistcoat to show below the front of the I you toilcoot ..• JNon cere SKI WEAR MUST BE PRACTICAL r:ose and O MATIER how many fads appear about this time for the skier, the N Those In the Know stick to a good, practical style. Now that we ·hes. have so many treated fabrics available for sports wear, we do not 10ke need tremendous bulk to ensure warmth. So you don t have to The Men's Shop with customary thoroughness bundle up like on Eskimo the minute you put on skis Nearly all has assembled your complete requirements clothing materials worn for outdoors in the winter ore now processed, for ski-ing wear. Correctly styled garments, which makes them resistant to wind, water and other discomforts. made of the light weight smooth surfaced Navy blue still leads os the popular calor for the skier, but you con wind and shower resisting materials recom­ lleO add a strong dash of calor with your scarf, mitts and socks. ung While on tho subject of outdoor winter garments, let me mention mended by skiers of long standing. Here are 1 'hat the new hood windbreaker that many men ore liking. Mighty cosy your essentials for o successful holiday in the see around the ears and neck, and with a good forehead hang, too. When Rock1es ... the Laurentions ... anywhere on uld you don't wont to use the hoods, these drop down into a smart collar. the snow covered slopes. ble Another hooded jacket has on interesting trick. When the hood !s not eh in use it may be rolled up and zipped under the collar, thus mokmg a heavier-looking collar, which is quite smart looking. Ski Jackets I 0.00 to 12.95 -Sow a snug bush coat made from heavy plaid wool and mohair , Ski Slacks 7.50to 10.95 combination. Sock coat length, with six pockets ..• two muff pockets Mitts, pair 2.00 and four pleated patch ones. I Caps, each 2.00 - You'll look like a fugitive from an Arctic Expod1tion n a new Chamois Socks, pair 1.75 allover suit just out.