THE : FUTURE : LABORATORY : : BEAUTY FUTURES 2018 #InYourOwnSkinNicolas Garner by Missguided, UK Beauty Futures 2018 : 2 Introduction Beauty in 2019 will be a tale of two halves. On the one hand the natural and niche will continue to grow, and on the other consumers will further embrace individual expression through make-up and the heavily contoured ideal of Instagram beauty will still reign. In this report we will explore the ‘The average person smaller shifts that are rippling across the category, from new spends between 45 trends in fragrance such as Anti-perfumes and Affordable minutes and 1.5 hours Aromas to how the language of facial skincare is affecting other researching products sectors such as bodycare. We also before they buy any beauty present Algorithmic Beauty, our latest macrotrend that questions items, and even after whether technology is creating a new objective definition of they buy, 55% of people what is considered beautiful. are still unsatisfied’ Ming Zhao, co-founder, Proven The Future Of Skincare is here, Augustinus Bader Beauty Futures 2018 : 3 Trends Rising From skincare to cosmetics to haircare and fragrance, these are the eight trends that retailers must prepare for in 2019 Tamburins, Seoul Beauty Futures 2018 : 4 Cyclical Beauty Knours’ eight-product clean beauty ‘There’s heightened range is accompanied by the U-Kno As consumers get to know their skin app, which tracks the user’s monthly awareness among better, they are beginning to understand cycle to analyse her changing beauty females that our skin how external products can interact needs throughout the month alongside is an organ and we with their body’s individual cycle. medical insight into skin condition and mood fluctuations. The collection also should challenge what Brands such as Amareta and Knours includes Double Duty Mist, which offer beauty products that cater for we’re letting absorb contains moisturising squalene and women’s changing skin during their into our skin.’ jojoba oil. These ingredients naturally menstrual cycle. Amareta aims to sink to the bottom of the bottle, while provide products that support the skin Amy Thomson, co-founder of Moody, aloe vera water and botanical extracts as it adapts to fluctuating oestrogen a digital eco-system for hormones rise to the top – users can shake them and progesterone levels across each and cycles together to target dry, tired skin or use 28-day cycle, responding to dryness and the water-based ingredients on their dullness and to increased oil production. own when skin is at its most sensitive. Body Hero by Glossier, US The Body is Back Glossier collaborated with a series of female influencers including In the beauty world, bodycare products Olympic gold medalist Swin Cash are often considered an afterthought Canal, clinical research coordinator – a functional but not critical part of Mekdes Mersha and model Paloma consumers’ everyday beauty routine. Elsesser on a body-positive campaign Glossier has launched the Body Hero to promote the range. The imagery bodycare range, inspired by formulas depicts a variety of body types and used to produce facial skincare skin tones to celebrate the diversity products. Its Body Hero Duo product, of women’s bodies. which is inspired by oil cleansers and rich facial creams, is said to ‘clean, hydrate and enhance skin all over’. ‘The look your skin gets is an afterthought for a lot of drugstore creams. It’s more about the moisture they deliver,’ says Glossier CEO Emily Weiss. The brand’s Perfecting Cream ‘The look your skin gets product features ‘light-reflecting is an afterthought for a particles’ similar to those found in facial highlighters and luminisers. lot of drugstore creams. ‘Of course, you have to have superior It’s more about the moisture,’ adds Weiss. ‘But what moisture they deliver’ finish will the product leave on your arms, your collar bone, your legs?’ Emily Weiss, CEO, Glossier Knours, US Beauty Futures 2018 : 5 Insta-beauty Offline Instagram has become a thriving environment for cult beauty brands, with 44% of cosmetics and skincare purchases influenced by beauty brands on social media (source: Facebook IQ). In response, retailers are taking the success of cult beauty brands offline. In September 2017, Riley Rose opened as a destination for hard-to-get brands, which have often found popularity on Instagram first. ‘Customers are getting their beauty tips online and are looking for more niche, indie and international brands,’ explains co-founder Linda Chang. Similarly, the Bloomingdale’s in-store beauty boutique Glowhaus features products from brands popular on social media. ‘With the rise of niche, socially born brands, it became clear to us that we needed to carve out a new space – to create a sort of incubator,’ says Stacie Borteck, the retailer’s vice-president and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics. 44% of cosmetics and skincare purchases influenced by beauty brands on social media Source: Facebook IQ Riley Rose by Linda and Esther Chang, US Beauty Futures 2018 : 6 Reclaiming Braids Consequently, braids are now being celebrated as an art form and a sign Young black women coming of age are of resistance. For instance, musician turning away from chemical relaxers and artist FKA Twigs’ first issue of and celebrating their identity and her AVA NTgarden zine explored hair heritage through braiding, a hair style braiding as a symbol of pride and steeped in tradition. rebellion among black slaves in the US. ‘Cornrows started because slaves In the past few years, the natural hair would draw maps in the braids movement among black women has describing how to escape the intensified. In Ghana, European-style plantations,’ FKA Twigs told Dazed. hair salons are struggling to fill their ‘I think it’s important that we own salons, according to the BBC, and in our heritage and know these things.’ the US, chemical relaxer sales in the black haircare market fell by 36.6% between 2012 and 2017 (source: Mintel) Cult Hair by Infringe Magazine, photography by Panos Damaskinidis Colour Refresh colourant kit includes salon-grade gloves, a protective barrier cream, In the US and the UK, fewer than stain-removing wipes and a deep a third of women dye their hair at conditioning treatment. 40% home, with 27% and 28% doing so, respectively. Concern over chemical Other companies such as ModiFace of women state ingredients and hair damage have and Splat are using technology that fear is the main led 40% of women to state that fear to upgrade the at-home routine. The former recently launched a live reason they don’t use is the main reason they don’t use such DIY hair dye kits products (source: Financial Times). But 3D video hair colour simulator for its partners, giving brands the new innovations are making it easier Source: Financial Times than ever to treat yourself at home. opportunity to let consumers try on, explore, and ultimately buy, different Celebrated hair colourist Josh Wood hair colours and styles in a try-before- launched his Josh Wood Colour you-buy setting. Similarly, Splat’s System in February 2018, which aims app enables users to try on shades to recreate the salon experience. The virtually before committing to dyeing. Chroma by Medina Dugger Beauty Futures 2018 : 7 Anti-perfumes Even heritage fragrance houses ‘It’s like breathing in such as Serge Lutens are embracing Anti-perfumes are disrupting the very unconventional inspirations drawn the comforting scent concept of fine fragrance by capturing from degeneration. Its recent scent of childhood, with a hint scents that draw on decay and disorder. Dent de Lait, or Milk Teeth, bears the of foreboding and unease smell of milk, almond and metallic Etat Libre d’Orange is renowned for notes. ‘It’s like breathing in the in the background’ its fragrance Sécrétions Magnifiques, comforting scent of childhood, with which draws on the scent of blood, Rachel Krause, senior beauty writer, a hint of foreboding and unease in sweat, sperm and saliva. Building on Refinery29 the background,’ says Refinery29’s this, the brand will release I Am Trash/ senior beauty writer Rachel Krause. Les Fleurs du Déchet in autumn 2018 ‘It’s a transient state, hovering – the first luxury perfume made from between something pure and waste. A teaser video by Ogilvy Paris something not so pure... the naïve features decomposing fruits and flowers and the beautiful meet the macabre.’ that give life to a new bloom, visualising the purity that can emerge from decay. A N Other, New York Affordable Aromas Niche perfume sales continue to grow 14% with the segment increasing by 14% in the US in 2017 (source: WWD). the percentage the New fragrance brands are tapping US niche perfume into the niche premium market, but segment grew in 2017 with a marked down price to appeal to a wider set of consumers. Source: WWD Floral Street is a range of premium perfumes on sale at a more accessible price point of £55 ($73, €63) for 50ml. The collection of eight niche scents has been designed around floral notes such as poppy, ylang-ylang and peony. Similarly, A N Other launched a range of luxury perfumes, with prices starting at £38 ($50, €43). The brand bypasses marketing in favour of ingredient formulation. ‘We looked at the cost structure and decided to take the bulk of the money and put it inside the bottle,’ says Gilad Amozeg, co-founder of the brand. ‘This means we can use more expensive and exotic raw ingredients, and eco-friendly materials.’ I AM TRASH / Les Fleurs du Déchet by Ogilvy Paris and Etat Libre d’Orange Beauty Futures 2018 : 8 The Make-up Movement In a UK survey by Ditch the Label, 75% of respondents aged 13 and over said they think some women would look better if they wore less make-up or none at all, and 27% of respondents said they feel judged for wearing make-up.