THE 334: Costume History II THE FRENCH REVOLUTION TO THE VIETNAM WAR Lecture Outlines & Course Materials Instructor: Lauren M. Lowell Costume History II Breeches THE 334 Trousers Outline 1 Pantaloons Empire/Regency Braces Caped Collar Top Hats I. 19th Century Overview Bicornes A. France Caps B. Great Britain IV. Fashion Rebels C. United States A. Merveilluese D. Industrial Revolution B. Incroyables 1. Mechanization V. Symbols of the French Revolution 2. Mass Migration Cockade E. 19th Century Morality Bonnet Rouge F. Dress Reform Sans Culottes 1. Suffragists Carmagnole 2. Bloomer Costume G. Greek Revival H. French Revolution I. Production and Acquisition of Textiles J. Hygiene II. Women A. 1789‐1799‐French Revolution B. 1800‐1815‐ French Empire/Neo‐ Classical C. 1815‐1825‐ Late Neo‐Classical D. Garments Chemise Drawers Corsets/Stays Long Corsets Petticoat Pantalettes Padded Rolls Grecian Bend Fichu Surplice Neckline Court Mantle Spencer Shawls Reticules/Indispensibles III. Men A. “Beau” Brummel B. Garments Shirt Ears Cravat Coat Waistcoat Costume History II THE 334 Outline 2 Romantic The Romantic Period: 1820‐1850 I. Romantic Ideas A. Middle Ages II. Women’s Social Roles vs. Clothing Styles III. Prudery IV. Textile Advances V. Sources A. Godey’s Lady’s Book B. Peterson’s Magazine C. Daguerreotypes VI. Women Morning Dresses Day Dresses Promenade/Walking Dresses Sleeve Pillows Marie Sleeve Gigot/Leg‐o‐mutton Sleeve Demi‐Gigot Imbecile/Idiot Sleeve Bishop Sleeve Undersleeves Moire En Coeur Tuckers/Chemisettes Pelerines A la Chinoise Bavolet Gaiters Galoshes Mitts Chatelaines VII. Men Frock Coat Greatcoat Garrick Paletot Mackintosh Top Hat Gibus Derby/Bowler Spatterdashers/Spats Costume History II THE 334 Outline 3 Crinoline I. Civil War II. Sewing Machines & Patterns A. Charles Butterick B. Elias Howe C. James Gibb D. Isaac Singer III. Gold Rush A. Levi Strauss IV. Dress Reform A. Elizabeth Smith Miller B. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B. Anthony, Amelia Bloomer V. Garments Bloomers Pagoda Sleeves Lingerie Sleeves Engageantes Garibaldi Zouave Bernous Snood Cameos Hair Jewelry Locket Brooch Studs Cufflinks Bow Ties Sack Coat Ditto Suit Knickerbockers Reefers/Pea Coats Inverness Raglan Cape Wide Awake Side Whiskers/Side Burns Costume History THE 334 Outline 4 Bustle I. Bustle: 1870-1889 II. Art Movements A. Pre-raphaelites 1. Aesthetic Dress B. Art Nouveau III. Mass production of Apparel A. Technological Advances B. Department Store & Catalogs IV. Sport Activities V. Garments for Women Combination Garter Belts Full Bustle Basque Cuirass/Sheath Tied Back Skirts Shelf Bustle Polonaise Dust Ruffles Apron Front Kickups Fishtail Bodice Apron Front Tea Gowns Mother Hubbards Combing Mantle Costume History II THE 334 Outline 5 The Belle Epoch/ “Gay ‘90s” I. The Gay 90's/Belle Epoche:1890- 1900 II. Garments for Women Hourglass/Wasp Waist Silhouette Bust Bodice Bust Improvers Plastron front Shirtwaist/waist Balloon Sleeve Pompadour I. Garments for Men:1870-1900 Fedoras Union Suits Homburgs Ties Deerstalker Cap Inverness Cape Costume History II 1. J.C. Leyendecker THE 334 B. Sports Outline 6 Oxford Tie Edwardian & WWI Sport Coats/Jackets Jodphurs I. French Couture Top Coats A. House of Doucet Trench Coat B. Callot Souers Raccoon Coats C. Leon Bakst Dusters 1. Ballet Russes Oxford Shoes a. Sheherazade D. Jeanne Paquin II. “Motoring” III. Technological Advances IV. Feminism A. Suffragettes V. Women 1900‐1908 A. S‐silhouette B. Garments Lingerie Skirt Knickers Directoire Knickers En Princess Health Corsets Pouter Pigeon Peek‐A‐Boo Blouses Suffragette Suit Lingerie Dresses Picture Hat Toque Lisle Clocks Dog Collar VI. Women 1909‐1914 A. Empire Revival B. Orientalism C. Garments Undies Brassiere Princess Petticoat Kimono Sleeve Hobble Skirts Minaret Tunic VII. Women 1914‐1919 (WWI) A. Garments Pullovers Chemise Dress Cuban Heels VIII. Men 1900‐1919 A. Arrow Shirt Man Costume History II Clara Bow lips THE 334 Outline 7 1920s/ “Roaring ‘20s” I. 1920s Life A. Prohibition B. Airtravel C. Social Life 1. The College Man & the Flapper 2. Sexual Mores 3. Dieting D. The Movies 1. Silent Films a. Rudolph Valentino b. Joan Crawford E. Sports 1. “Sportswear” vs. “Active Sports Clothing” F. Automobiles G. Technological Development 1. Acetate 2. 1938‐nylon 3. Zippers a. Whitcomb L. Judson’s clasp locker b. Gideon Sundback’s hookless fastner c. B.F. Goodrich’s zipper boots H. Garments Panties Slip Cami‐knickers Garter belt Cowl Handkerchief hem Ensembles Bouffant skirt Robe de Style Clutch coats Raccoon coats Bob Shingle bob Eton crop Marcel wave Bobby pin Cloche Berets Headache bands Costume History THE 334 Outline 8 1930s THE GREAT DEPRESSION/ WWII Jodphurs I. 1930s & 1940s Background A. The Great Depression B. The Movies 1. Gilbert Adrian 2. Edith Head 3. Greta Garbo 4. Jean Harlow 5. Shirley Temple C. Royalty & Café Society 1. Debutantes 2. The Strapless Gown D. French Couture 1. Madeleine Vionnet 2. Elsa Schiaparelli E. Garments Panty Briefs/Briefs Slacks Page Boy Bob Upsweep F. Active Sportswear Lastex Costume History THE 334 Outline 9 WWII II. WWII A. Rationing 1. L-85 Regulations B. Movies 1. Van Johnson 2. Spencer Tracy 3. Veronica Lake 4. Technicolor C. American Designers 1. Claire McCardell 2. Adrian 3. Norman Norell 4. Pauline Trigere D. Garments Eisenhower Jackets Sweater Girls Sloppy Joes Dirndl Skirts Pillboxes Bobbysoxers Leg Makeup Costume History II THE 334 Outline 10 Men 1920-1947 Men 1920-1947 A. Prince of Wales/Duke of Windsor B. Garments Boxer Shorts Athletic Shirts Jockey Shorts Oxford Bags Turtleneck Jerseys English Drape Suit Zoot Suit Cummerbund Polo Coat English Guard’s Coat Zip-in Linings Parka Jackets Lumber Jackets/Mackinaws Pea Jackets Eisenhower/Battle Jackets Bush Jackets Plus Fours Walking Shorts Polo Shirt Lacoste Shirt Cowboy/Western Shirts Hawaiian Shirts Pork Pie Argyle Socks Costume History II Twin Sets THE 334 Shrugs Outline 11 Houseboy Pants 1947‐1957/ “New Look” Pedal Pushers/Capris Bermudas I. Politics Shorties/Toppers A. NATO 1/2 Eggshell Hats B. Cold War Ear Bobs C. Korean War Kid gloves D. McCarthyism Hose/Nylons E. De‐segregation Anklets F. Suburbs Sneakers II. Fabric Revolution Atom A. Modacrylics, acrylics, Polysester, Triacetate, Spandex B. Textile Fiber Products Identification Act III. Television A. White Bucks B. Pompadour C. Coonskin Caps D. Maternity Clothing IV. Couture A. Originals B. Dior 1. Corelle Line 2. Little Below the Knee Clubs C. Knock‐offs D. Line‐for‐line copies E. McCardell 1. Diaper Bathing Suit 2. Monastic Dress V. Teenagers A. Teddy Boys 1. Winkle Pickers 2. D.A. hair cut B. Bobbysoxers VI. Influencial Ladies A. Grace Kelly B. Audrey Hepburn VII. Other Garments Gingham Merry Widow Waist Cinches Girdles Crinolines Peter Pan Collar Mandarin Collar Ballerina Length Cap Sleeves Costume History II THE 334 Outline 12 1957‐1967 Women 1947‐1964 Men I. 1957‐1964 A. Silent Generation B. Social Protest C. White House Fashion Influences 1. Oleg Cassini D. Women’s Garments Pantyhose Skimmer Trapeze Dress Sack Dress Bouffant Hair Pillbox Stiletto heels II. 1947‐1964 Men E. Garments Bold Look Esquire Magazine Gray Flannel Suit Continental Suit Mop Top Hair French Blue Madras Plaid Chinos Walking Shorts Crew Cuts Flat Top .