what to do • where to go • what to see September 26–October 9, 2005 ThTheeeOfO Offficficiaiaiall GuidGuideeetot too BOSTBOSTONON State of Art 10 Hot Spots for Contemporary Art Around Boston PLUS: > The MFA Hosts Art You’ll Love > Trinity Church Unveils its Multi-Million Dollar Makeover > Joe Rogan of “Fear Factor” Trades Frights for Laughs www.panoramamagazine.com contents COVER STORY FEATURE 14 State 18 Labor of Art of Love Boston’s best places to The MFA welcomes the private see contemporary art art collection of William I. Koch DEPARTMENTS 6 around the hub From historic New England 6 news & notes 11 dining to a breathtaking world 9 kids corner 12 nightlife 10 on stage 13 style of art and culture 21 the hub directory 22 current events 49 freedom trail experience 30 clubs & bars 51 shopping 32 museums & galleries 56 mind & body 38 maps 57 restaurants Peabody Essex Museum 43 sightseeing 68 NEIGHBORHOODS Journey through New England’s grand and storied 78 past at the stunning Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, 5 questions with… Massachusetts. Explore the region’s legendary JOE ROGAN of connections to the art and culture of Asia, Oceania, “Fear Factor” Africa, India, and more. Make a day of it. Experience PEM’s unrivaled collections, special exhibitions, interactive idea center for families, the award-winning Museum Shop and Garden Restaurant, plus the world-famous Yin Yu Tang, a 200-year-old Chinese merchant’s home brought here from China.* All in the historic, uniquely captivating on the cover: seaport city of Salem. Model Courtney Craft For information, call 866-745-1876 of DMT poses in front or visit pem.org of Maine-based artist Open daily 10 am–5 pm Mark Wethli’s BABY, THAT’S ART: installation entitled Our model poses with Nina Elevator at the Levy’s Big Baby at the DeCordova DeCordova Museum East India Square | Salem, Massachusetts 01970 USA Museum and Sculpture Park in Lincoln. Refer to feature story, in Lincoln. page 14. * Timed tickets are required for the Chinese house. Advance reservations advised. Call TicketWeb at 866-468-7619 or go online to www.ticketweb.com. Photo: johnsavone.com ___ PHOTO BY JOHNSAVONE. COM SEPTEMBER 26–OCTOBER 9, 2005 3 The Official Guide to BOSTON www.panoramamagazine.com September 26–October 9, 2005 Volume 55 • Number 10 Jerome Rosenfeld • CHAIRMAN Tim Montgomery • PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER Christine Celli • EDITOR Scott Roberto • ART/PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Josh B. Wardrop • ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sharon Hudak Miller • ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Heather S. Burke • PHOTO EDITOR Christopher Wallenberg • STAFF WRITER Marketa Hulpachova • EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Derek Kouyoumjian, John Savone • CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Jacolyn Ann Firestone • VICE PRESIDENT, ADVERTISING Rita A. Fucillo • DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AND PUBLIC RELATIONS Tyler Montgomery • ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Peter Ng • INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY MANAGER Melissa J. O’Reilly • BUSINESS MANAGER Jane Coulter, Reshma Melwani, James Sligh, Kevin Spak • INTERNS If you’re not having a good time, PANORAMA is published bi-weekly by Jerome Press Publications Inc. Editorial and advertising offices at 332 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02210. Telephone (617) 423- 3400. Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced with- out written permission of the publisher. PANORAMA is a member of the Massachusetts Lodging Association, The Back Bay Association, The Greater Boston Chamber of Commerce, The Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau, Cambridge Chamber of Commerce, the Greater Boston Concierge Association, the Harvard Square Business Association, the Newbury Street League and the check your pulse. Downtown Crossing Association. PANORAMA is audited by BPA Worldwide, an independent audit bureau recognized by the 40 fabulous years American Association of Advertising Agencies. LATE NIGHT BISTRO MENU,, LIVE JAZZ NIGHTLY 617.536.1775 a magazine affiliate 800 Boylston Street, Prudential Center, Boston ___ ___ 4 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 26–OCTOBER 9, 2005 5 around the hub NEWS & NOTES thermal wells to support a new heating and cooling sys- calendar of events aroundtheby Christinehub Celli & Josh B. Wardrop tem, and the Church actually news&notes excavated 13,000 square feet FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 30 of space underneath the Kick off the month in true German building to create what style at the 16th annual Harpoon they’ve termed the Octoberfest, featuring German food, “Undercroft,” which contains oompah bands, keg bowling and, of new meeting rooms, a new course, plenty of Harpoon’s book and gift shop and some Octoberfest beer. Refer to newly commissioned contem- listing, page 26. porary art glass by artists Alexander Beleschenko and SATURDAY, OCTOBER 1 Raffaela Sirtoli Schnell. An Celebrate Boston’s rich and diverse impressive enough architec- cultures through October 2 at the tural feat, but even more so International Cultural Festival, when one considers that taking place 11 a.m.–4 p.m. at Trinity Church continued to Faneuil Hall. The event features inter- conduct weekly services for national cuisine and entertainment its parishioners throughout from a host of dancers, artists and the process. musicians and is free and open to Work on the project was the public. Refer to listing, page 27. done by preservation archi- tects Goody Clancy and the SATURDAY, OCTOBER 1 construction firm Shawmut Tonight, renegade acoustic jazz trio Design and Construction. The Bad Plus plays at the Somerville With renovations now largely Theatre. The piano-bass-drums complete, the church is open combo is known for its infectious, to the public for touring. daring reconstructions of rock clas- Refer to listing, page 44. sics by Nirvana, the Pixies, Blondie Extreme Makeover and more. Refer to listing, page 26. n September 13, members of the press were treated to a tour of Boston’s Trinity Church AN “AUD” FOR SATURDAY, OCTOBER 1 & SUNDAY, OCTOBER 2 Oin Copley Square to view the results of an extended restoration project that began in the YOUR ’POD fall of 2003. The Episcopal church, designed by noted 19th century architect Henry Hobson Meet your Red Sox heroes of yesteryear at the Bayside Expo Center’s Richardson, has been one of Boston’s most identifiable and popular landmark buildings since If, in your travels around Red Sox Mania memorabilia convention. Former Sox players such as it was completed and consecrated in 1877. Boston, you see people Jim Rice, Wade Boggs, Jim Lonborg, Fred Lynn, Carlton Fisk and a host The substantial $53 million renovation project included what Louise Burnham Packard, checking out the sights with of others will be on hand to sign mementos. Baseball and sports cards executive director of the Trinity Boston Foundation, called “a combination of preservation and their ubiquitous iPods in and collectibles will also be sold at the event. Refer to listing, page 23. renewal elements.” On the preservation side, the extensive interior murals and decorative tow, they may be listening to painting by 19th century artist John La Farge were cleaned and the colors restored, the more than just their favorite TUESDAY, OCTOBER 4 church roof and towers were made watertight and 10 of the church’s stained-glass windows music. Last month, entrepre- Tonight at the TDBanknorth Garden, were restored. Additionally, two of the church’s Aeolian-Skinner organs are being repaired. neur Rob Pyles introduced it’s the return of international rock As part of Trinity’s “renewal” efforts, significant construction occurred to expand the amount The Boston Audissey— icons U2. A word to the wise: there’s of usable space for parishioners and community members. Construction teams dug six geo- Boston’s first MP3 format scarcely a hotter ticket to be found self-guided historical tour. this week, so be prepared to beg, news & notes 6 • kids corner 9 • on stage 10 • Visitors who buy the borrow and steal (or at least pay a tour and download it onto scalper through the nose) for tickets. dining 11 • nightlife 12 • style 13 cont. on page 8 >> Refer to listing, page 26. ___ ___ 6 PANORAMA SEPTEMBER 26–OCTOBER 9, 2005 7 around the hub NEWS & NOTES around the hub KIDS CORNER crowds aren’t your thing, simply pay a visit to www.AudisseyGuides.com, plug in your headphones and use present-day technology to explore Boston’s past. THE ICEMEN COMETH On a national scale, the NHL strike of last year elicited barely a yawn of interest. Not so in these parts, where Bobby Orr soared through the air to score a Stanley Cup-winning goal for the Boston Bruins in 1970. For a town already known to be sports fanatics, our love affair with the puck has been sealed for a good 40 years now, and we were none-too- pleased when NHL play was nixed for all of 2004–2005. Scoop Call us greedy, but even with Savings championship wins from both the Sox and the Patriots In 1945 SCOOP TUESDAYS to tide us over, there were Baskin-Robbins some guy more than a few of us eager Through October 31 named to see the boys in black and Baskin gold return this town to its and his buddy Robbins started Clowning Around banner-raising glory. Hoping making ice cream, little dreaming end in the clowns—and send to pick up where they left off that 60 years later the event RINGLING BROS. the Chinese acrobats, trapeze in 2003–2004 (as the number would be remembered and AND BARNUM & S artists, lions and elephants to boot! 2 seed in the Eastern commemorated nationwide, in the BAILEY CIRCUS TD Banknorth Garden The 134th edition of the Ringling << cont. their iPod (at a cost Mafia. The Boston Audissey Conference playoffs, for those form of really cheap, cold creamy October 7–16 Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus from page 7 of $12.95 for the also offers its listeners keeping track), the Bruins goodness.