01_257111 ffirs.qxp 8/25/08 11:21 PM Page i Puerto Rico 9th Edition by John Marino Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page vi 01_257111 ffirs.qxp 8/25/08 11:21 PM Page i Puerto Rico 9th Edition by John Marino Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_257111 ffirs.qxp 8/25/08 11:21 PM Page ii About the Author John Marino is editor of the The San Juan Star and has written about Puerto Rico and the Caribbean for Reuters, The Washington Post, The New York Times, Gourmet, and other publications. He lives in San Juan, Puerto Rico with his wife Jova and son Juan Antonio, who both provided valuable research and insight for this book. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright ©2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-25711-1 Editor: Stephen Bassman Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston Cartographer: Anton Crane Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Colorful housing and doorways in Old San Juan Back cover photo: Coastline of Cerromar Beach For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:21 PM Page iii Contents What’s New in Puerto Rico 1 1 The Best of Puerto Rico 3 1 The Best Beaches . .4 8 The Best Family Resorts . .12 2 The Best Hotel Beaches . .6 9 The Best Honeymoon Resorts . .12 3 The Best Scuba Diving . .7 10 The Best Big Resort Hotels . .13 4 The Best Snorkeling . .8 11 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . .14 5 The Best Golf & Tennis . .9 12 The Best Attractions . .15 6 The Best Hikes . .10 13 The Best Restaurants . .16 7 The Best Natural Wonders . .11 14 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences . .18 2 Puerto Rico in Depth 20 1 Puerto Rico Today . .20 4 The Population & Popular Culture . .37 2 History 101 . .22 5 Comida Criolla: Puerto Ponce de León: Man of Myth Rican Cuisine . .39 & Legend . .23 Strange Fruit . .41 3 The Lay of the Land: Beaches, 6 Recommended Reading . .44 Mountains, the Rainforest, Off-Island Islands & More . .34 3 Planning Your Trip to Puerto Rico 45 1 Visitor Information . .45 6 Travel Insurance . .62 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . .45 7 Health & Safety . .63 3 Money . .47 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .65 What Things Cost in Puerto Rico . .48 9 Getting There & Getting Around . .67 4 When to Go . .49 10 Package Deals & Group Tours . .70 Puerto Rico Calendar of Events . .51 Great Discounts through the 5 The Active Vacation Planner . .54 LeLoLai VIP Program . .71 Take Me Out to the Beisbol 11 For the Cruise-Ship Traveler . .72 Game . .57 12 Tips on Accommodations . .74 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 4 Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries 78 1 The Regions in Brief . .78 4 Puerto Rico for Families . .91 2 Puerto Rico in 1 Week . .83 5 Driving Tour: La Ruta Panorámica 3 Puerto Rico in 2 Weeks . .88 in 2 Days . .93 5 Getting to Know San Juan 96 1 Orientation . .96 Art on Wheels: Painted Taxis . .103 Neighborhoods in Brief . .100 Fast Facts: San Juan . .105 2 Getting Around . .102 6 Where to Stay in San Juan 108 1 Old San Juan . .109 4 Miramar . .121 Room with a Local’s View: 5 Santurce & Ocean Park . .122 Apartment Rentals . .113 6 Isla Verde . .124 2 Puerta de Tierra . .114 Family-Friendly 3 Condado . .116 Accommodations . .127 7 Where to Dine in San Juan 130 1 Best Bets . .131 6 Santurce & Ocean Park . .149 2 Old San Juan . .133 7 Near Ocean Park . .152 An Authentic Criolla Restaurant . .138 8 Isla Verde . .152 3 Puerta de Tierra . .142 Two Family-Friendly Restaurants . .154 4 Condado . .144 9 Near Isla Verde . .157 5 Miramar . .148 8 Exploring San Juan 158 1 Seeing the Sights . .158 3 Shopping . .179 The Best Places to See Puerto Grotesque Masks . .182 Rican Art . .168 Shopping for Santos . .185 The Cathedral of Rum . .171 4 San Juan After Dark . .188 2 Diving, Fishing, Tennis & The Birth of the Piña Colada . .191 Other Outdoor Pursuits . .172 Barhopping . .194 La Criolla Chic . .176 9 Near San Juan 197 1 El Yunque . .198 3 Dorado . .205 2 Luquillo Beach . .201 World-Class Golf at the Former Hyatt Dorado . .207 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page v CONTENTS v 4 Arecibo & Camuy . .209 6 Central Mountains . .212 5 Karst Country . .211 Life After Death: Taíno Burial & Ceremonial Sites . .213 10 Ponce & the Southwest 216 1 Ponce . .216 3 San Germán . .239 Walking Tour: Ponce . .221 4 Coamo . .241 2 The Southwest Coast . .229 5 The Southern Mountains . .242 Puerto Rico’s Secret Beaches . .234 11 Mayagüez & the Northwest 245 1 Mayagüez . .245 2 Rincón . .252 Mona Island: The Galápagos 3 Aguadilla & the Northwest . .260 of Puerto Rico . .251 4 The Western Mountains . .264 12 Eastern Puerto Rico 267 1 Fajardo . .267 Top Caribbean Spa: The Golden To the Lighthouse: Exploring Door . .272 Las Cabezas de San Juan 2 Palmas del Mar . .273 Nature Reserve . .268 3 The Southeast . .276 13 Vieques & Culebra 278 1 Vieques . .278 2 Culebra . .291 Appendix: Fast Facts, Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 296 1 Fast Facts: Puerto Rico . .296 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . .299 Index 303 General Index . .303 Restaurant Index . .311 Accommodations Index . .310 02_257111 ftoc.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page vi List of Maps Puerto Rico 80 Old San Juan Attractions 159 Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries 86 San Juan Attractions 162 San Juan Orientation 98 Attractions Near San Juan 199 Old San Juan Accommodations & Walking Tour: Ponce 222 Dining 111 Mayagüez 247 Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado Western Puerto Rico & the & Ocean Park Accommodations Northwest Coast 253 & Dining 115 Eastern Puerto Rico 269 Isla Verde Accommodations & Dining 125 Vieques & Culebra 279 03_257111 flast.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Puerto Rico, 9th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi- ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Caribbean Frommer’s Caribbean Ports of Call Caribbean For Dummies Frommer’s Cruises & Ports of Call The Unofficial Guide to Cruises Cruise Vacations For Dummies 03_257111 flast.qxp 8/25/08 11:22 PM Page viii Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.