Tove Berner-Wik Shiny Things Decoration as tool and function whilst revaluating notions of good and bad taste 1 Titel: Shiny Things – Decoration as tool and function whilst revaluating notions of good and bad taste Writer: Tove Berner-Wik Report number: 2019.06.06 Degree: Master in Fashion Design University: The Swedish School of Textiles Examination date: 2019-04-25 Opponent: Naomi Filmer Examiner: Clemens Thornquist Special thanks to: My supervisor Ulrik Martin Larsen. Karin Berner and Erika Berg for help with proofreading. Elin Berner-Wik for an extra hand in the development of Shiny Things. 2 Shiny Things 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1. Abstract This work is an investigation of how to redefine the perception of decoration. Decorative elements are reinvented as fundamental tools for creating garments and form in a collection of nine outfits. To show the width of what embellishment is able to create, the decorative techniques of all garments are different. The work also deals with the question of taste when it comes to embellishment. By using decorations seen as tasteless the work revaluates notions of good and bad taste. Materials as sport fabric combined with embellishment trick the eye and all small decorations together form new materials. New ways to use embellishments are explored, and the time consuming techniques are reminiscent of haute couture techniques, but in the designer’s own way. 1.1 Keywords - Fashion - Design - Decoration - Details - Sportswear - Craft - Construction - Haute couture techniques - Good and bad taste 13 Table of Content 1. Abstract ...................................................................................................................................... 13 1.1 Keywords .......................................................................................................................... 13 2. Introduction to the Field of Decoration ....................................................................................... 16 2.1 The Rules of Decoration ....................................................................................................... 17 2.2 Different Varieties of Decoration ........................................................................................... 19 2.3 Decoration for Creating an Identity ....................................................................................... 20 2.4 Good and Bad Taste ............................................................................................................ 22 3. State of the Art ........................................................................................................................... 23 3.1 Cover Everything with Decorations....................................................................................... 23 3.2 Reverse Decoration .............................................................................................................. 26 3.3 Fool the Eye ......................................................................................................................... 28 3.4 Grand Decorative Detail ....................................................................................................... 30 4. Design Program ......................................................................................................................... 31 4.1 Decoration as the starting point ............................................................................................ 32 4.2 Decoration on Decoration ..................................................................................................... 33 4.3 Context ................................................................................................................................. 34 4.4 K.J.L Decorations as focus + Context .................................................................................. 35 4.5 Fused Together .................................................................................................................... 37 5. Motive and Idea Discussion ....................................................................................................... 38 5.1 Decoration is Only Beautiful Details ..................................................................................... 38 5.2 The Context Beautiful or Ugly? ............................................................................................. 40 6. Aim ............................................................................................................................................. 41 7. Method ....................................................................................................................................... 42 7.1 Own it! .................................................................................................................................. 42 7.2 The Questions ...................................................................................................................... 43 7.3 Trust your Instinct ................................................................................................................. 44 7.4 Small Scale Sketches ........................................................................................................... 45 14 8. Development .............................................................................................................................. 46 8.1 Materials ............................................................................................................................... 47 8.2 Line Up Development ........................................................................................................... 48 8.3 Gather - Rhinestone Chains on Reflective Material Jacket .................................................. 53 8.4 Connect – Bodysuit Lace with Studs .................................................................................... 56 8.5 Connect - Embroidery Banana Patches and Pearls Lacing .................................................. 58 8.6 Gather – Pearl Tracksuit ....................................................................................................... 62 8.7 Alone - Pearls Suit ................................................................................................................ 65 8.8 Connect - Rhinestone Hoodie .............................................................................................. 68 8.9 Alone - Sequin Ribbon Top .................................................................................................. 71 8.10 Gather - Tinsel Puffer Jacket .............................................................................................. 76 8.11 Alone / Gather / Connect - Sequins on Sequins Sweatshirt ............................................... 78 8.12 Accessories ........................................................................................................................ 81 9. Result ......................................................................................................................................... 87 9.1 Line up .................................................................................................................................. 88 9.2 Outfit no 1. Rhinestone Chains on Reflective Material Jacket .............................................. 89 9.3 Outfit no 2. Bodysuit Lace with Studs ................................................................................... 91 9.4 Outfit no 3. Embroidery Banana Patches and Pearls Lacing ................................................ 93 9.5 Outfit no 4. Pearl Tracksuit ................................................................................................... 95 9.6 Outfit no 5. Pearl Suit ........................................................................................................... 97 9.7 Outfit no 6. Rhinestone Hoodie ............................................................................................ 99 9.8 Outfit no 7. Sequin Ribbon Top .......................................................................................... 101 9.9 Outfit no 8. Tinsel Garland Puffer Jacket ............................................................................ 103 9.10 Outfit no 9. Sequins on Sequins Sweatshirt ..................................................................... 105 10. Discussion & Reflection ......................................................................................................... 108 11. References ............................................................................................................................. 111 12. Image References .................................................................................................................. 116 15 2. Introduction to the Field of Decoration Decoration is seen as ornamentation. It is a decorative element that lacks constructive function (Dictionaries, 2018). That view grew stronger during the 20th century when the Austrian architect Adolf Loos contributed to this opinion and contempt for decoration in his known and controversial essay Ornament and Crime (Loos,1913). Loos claimed that decoration was considered to be waste of time and it would be harmful to humans (Loos, 1997). Although Loos opinions about decoration were in the field of architecture and it was long time ago, the opinions questioned the need of decoration. Another opinion about decoration is that less is more. Although decorations aim to beautify