THE BEST OF AUSTRIA 1 rom soaring alpine peaks in the west to the seem- ingly endless valleys and lowlands in the east, Aus- Ftria’s natural beauty is breathtaking. For over a millennium the region has been at the center of European history and culture. Its lively historic cities, like the capital Vienna, Graz, Innsbruck, and Salzburg are as aesthetically pleasing as their dramatic settings. In summer, Austria’s lakes, rivers, and hiking paths come to life, while the winter months are interwoven with hot-spiced wine and ski excursions. The Austrians are elegant and cultured people with a dark, yet resilient sense of humor and a knack for fashioning lifestyle to fit their needs. From 5th generation country farmers to middle class city dwellers to members of the faded aristocracy, sophistication, beauty, and good food are of the utmost importance. For such a small country, Austria has made more than its fair share of global impact. Besides exports like Linzer Torte, Manner wafers, and Red Bull, Vienna is the third UN headquarters’ city, along with New York and Geneva. With some 17,000 diplomats in residence and conveniently located at the crossroads of eastern and western Europe, Austria has the highest density of foreign intelligence agents in the world. Once the seat of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, today’s Austrian capital Vienna is a bustling metropolis with a strong commitment to the good life, and the city is consistently ranked number 1 in quality of life worldwide. Throughout this book, you’ll find Austria’s choice sights, restaurants, and hotels, and this chapter gives you a glimpse of the very best. Some are classics, like Vienna’s opera or Tyrol’s Kitzbühel, others are less well known. However,COPYRIGHTED surely you’ll add your own bests MATERIAL to this list. The same applies for this whole book of candid recommendations: Hopefully you’ll benefit from the inside pointers, but you’ll surely discover favorites of your own. When places change significantly, for better or worse, you’ll find it on Frommers.com—feel free to join in the conversation there. 004_9780470975954-ch01.indd4_9780470975954-ch01.indd 1 33/30/11/30/11 66:31:31 PMPM 1 THE best TRAVEL EXPERIENCES W Skiing in the Alps: Skiing is the Austrian national sport, bringing thousands of visitors to Austria. The country abounds in ski slopes, with the best ones in Tyrol, Land Salzburg, and Vorarlberg, although most parts of Carinthia, western Styria, and Lower Austria also have slopes. The season lasts from late November to April, depending on snow conditions. At 1,739m (5,705 ft.), the Obertauern region extends its ski season until May. Adventurers can ski glaciers at 3,355m (11,010 ft.), even in summer. See “The Best Ski Areas,” later in this chapter. W Savoring Tafelspitz, the “Emperor’s Dish”: No Austrian dish is more typical than The Best Travel Experiences Travel Best The the fabled Tafelspitz, favored by Emperor Franz Joseph. Boiled beef sounds dull, but Tafelspitz is far from bland. A tender delicacy, the cut absorbs a variety of fla- vors, including juniper berries, celery root, and onions. Apple-and-horseradish sauce further enlivens the dish, which is usually served with fried grated potatoes. For Vienna’s best Tafelspitz, try Plachutta, on the Wollzeile in Vienna (& 01/5121577). See p. 127. W Taking the Cure at a Spa: Few things touch the beauty of taking time to recharge your batteries. In Austria, it is seen as part of a balanced lifestyle. Sauna land- scapes, lakeside spa treatments with local mineral muds, and herbal treatments from the rich natural resources on offer will keep you purring. If you really want to get a taste of Austria, make sure you plan at least one day of rest and rejuvenation THE BEST OF AUSTRIA THE BEST at an alpine or thermal spa. See chapters 10, 12, and 13 for high-altitude pamper- ing and chapters 7, 8, 11, 14, and 15 for thermal springs. W Listening to Mozart: It’s said that at any time of the day or night in Austria, some- one, somewhere is playing the music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. You might hear it at an opera house; a church; a festival; an open-air concert; or, more romantically, in a Belle Epoque cafe, performed by a Hungarian orchestra. Regardless, “the sound of music” drifting through Vienna is likely the creation of this child prodigy. Try to hear Mozart on his home turf, especially in Vienna and Salzburg. See chap- ters 6 and 9. W Watching the Lipizzaner Stallions (Vienna): Nothing evokes the heyday of impe- rial Vienna more than the Spanish Riding School. The sleek white stallions and their expert riders demonstrate the classic art of dressage in choreographed leaps and bounds. The stallions are the finest equestrian performers on earth. You can watch the performances, but you’ll need to make reservations 6 to 8 weeks in advance. See p. 151. W Cruising the Danube (Donau): Johann Strauss used a bit of poetic license when he called it The Blue Danube—it’s only really blue on the sunniest of days. Cruis- ing the river is nevertheless a highlight of any Viennese holiday. The legendary DDSG, Blue Danube Shipping Company, Handelskai 265, A-1020 Vienna (& 01/ 588800; www.ddsg-blue-danube.at), offers 1-day trips. On board, you’ll pass some of the most famous sights in eastern Austria, including Krems and Melk. See p. 170. W Heuriger Hopping in Grinzing: The Heuriger are rustic wine taverns that celebrate the arrival of each year’s new vintage (heurig) by placing a pine branch over the door. The Viennese rush to the taverns to taste the new local wines and feast on country buffets. Some Heuriger have garden tables with sweeping views of the 2 004_9780470975954-ch01.indd4_9780470975954-ch01.indd 2 33/30/11/30/11 66:31:31 PMPM Danube Valley; others provide shaded, centuries-old courtyards where revelers enjoy live folk music. See “The Heuriger,” in chapter 6. 1 W Reliving The Sound of Music: In 1964, Julie Andrews, Christopher Plummer, and OF AUSTRIA THE BEST a gaggle of kids imitating the von Trapp family filmed one of the world’s great musicals. The memory of that Oscar-winning movie lingers on, as a steady stream of visitors head to Salzburg just to take The Sound of Music tour. You visit the Non- nberg Abbey and that little gazebo where Rolf and Liesl danced in the rain. There’s also a stop at the Felsenreitenschule (Rock Riding School), where the von Trapps gave their final performance. See p. 268. W Driving on Top of the World on the Grossglockner Road (Land Salzburg): For the drive of a lifetime, you can take Europe’s longest and most panoramic alpine highway, with hairpin turns and bends around every corner. It begins at Bruck an der Grossglocknerstrasse at 757m (2,484 ft.); continues through the Hochtortun- The Most Romantic Get Romantic Most The nel, where the highest point is 2,507m (8,225 ft.); and ends in the province of Carinthia. The mountain part of the road, stretching some 22km (14 miles), often at 1,983m (6,506 ft.), has a maximum gradient of 12%. You can drive this stunning engineering feat from mid-May to mid-November, although the road is safest from mid-June to mid-September. The views are among the greatest in the world, but keep your eyes on that curvy road! See “Land Salzburg,” in chapter 10. W Exploring the Alps: There are few places in the world that are as splendid as the limestone alpine mountains shared between Austria and Bavaria. Moving toward the East, the Alps slope away to the Great Hungarian Plain. The Austrian Alps aways break into three chains, including the High or Central Alps, the Northern Lime- stone Alps, and the Southern Limestone Alps. In the west, you discover untouched Tyrolean villages, the Holy Roman Empire attractions of Innsbruck, and some of the world’s greatest ski resorts, including St. Anton, Zürs, Lech, and Kitzbühel. Filled with quaint little towns, the eastern Alps sprawl across the Tyrolean country, west Styria, and Land Salzburg. Castles and stunning views await you at every turn. See chapters 10, 12, 13, and 15. THE most romantic GETAWAYS W Hof bei Salzburg (Land Salzburg): Lying on Lake Fuschl (Fuschlsee), this chic resort is only a 15-minute ride from Salzburg; it boasts a breathtaking alpine back- drop of blue clear, but chilly, waters, mountains, and evergreen forests. Based here, you can also easily get to Fuschlsee, Wolfgangsee, and Mondsee. The town offers some romantic places to stay, notably the Hotel Schloss Fuschl ( & 06229/22530; www.starwoodhotels.com). See p. 308. W St. Wolfgang (Upper Austria): On the Wolfgangsee, one of Austria’s loveliest lakes, St. Wolfgang lies in the mountains of the Salzkammergut. It’s the home of the White Horse Inn (& 06138/23060; www.weissesroessl.at), which served as the setting for Ralph Benatzky’s operetta of the same name. Lying 50km (32 miles) east of Salzburg, the resort is a summer paradise, with lakefront beaches and cafes, hiking opportunities in all directions, and skiing in winter. See “St. Wolfgang & Bad Ischl,” in chapter 11. W Mutters (Tyrol): On a sunny plateau above Innsbruck, this small resort is one of the most quaint and beautiful villages in Tyrol (quite a compliment). Mutters attracts visitors year-round, and a cable car will take you to the Muttereralm where 3 004_9780470975954-ch01.indd4_9780470975954-ch01.indd 3 33/30/11/30/11 66:31:31 PMPM skiing, hiking, and mountain biking are possible.