✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I HOT-STUFF HAVANA SEE & DO curving concrete walkway, the Malecón, l Old Havana’s streets might lined with salt-nibbled ornamental be antique but, boy, have they still got windows and doors. As the sun spills it, popping with pastel pinks, peaches gold over the Atlantic, snap trumpet and pistachio. So take time to admire players, fishermen, lovers and the the Spanish colonial palaces, Art chrome fins of dolly-mixture Detroit RIDE OF Deco homes and Neo-Classical piles, YOUR LIFE cars as they cruise by. Climb to the and walk between the main cobbled Fancy a spin in one rooftop terrace of Malecón 663 squares: Plaza de San Francisco de of those vintage (malecon663.com; 9 ) for sundowners. motors? Pick from Asís ( 1 on map) for its 18th-century the cluster in basilica; Plaza Vieja 2 for coiffured Central Park, l The glowing embers of a good cigar beauty; Plaza de Armas 3 for the where you can are where luxury symbols meet opulent Palace of the Captains General; haggle on price socialist Cuba. Partagás Factory (San (aim for about and Plaza de la Catedral 4 for nobles’ £20 an hour) Carlos 816e/Peñalver y Sitios; £8; 10 ) mansions and its asymmetric church. is the only one properly open to visitors: watch the selection, de-veining and l In untouristy San Isidro barrio, along rolling of leaves into Cohibas and streets once rude with pimps and Montecristos, shrouded in a fug of prostitutes, you’ll find the city’s most nicotine. Then let a sommelier talk happening art. Cuban film actor, Jorge you through a rum-and-cigar pairing Perugorría, has opened Galería Taller at Kempinski’s modern tobacco Gorría (galeriatallergorria.com; 5 ) and lounge (kempinski.com; £24; 11 ). encouraged street artists to decorate the district’s flaking walls. Wander l The monumental, wedding-cake- among vibrant spray-painted white Capitol building, recently murals and poignant pieces of social decorated with a gold cupola like commentary; check @sanisidroda an armoured bosom, is newly open on Instagram for regular events. for tours (Paseo de Martí; £8; 12 ). Go for the history as well as the jaw- l Havana flourished with profits from dropping interiors: there’s the blinging sugar, rum and tobacco, so it’s no bronze Statue of the Republic in tunic surprise the cocktail culture is liberal. and helmet, luminous marble Hall Order the refreshing vodka-based of the Lost Steps and a rare statue Raining Geisha at El del Frente (Calle of the devil in an interior courtyard. O’Reilly 303e/Habana y Aguiar; 6 ); the Mind-blowing: a l passion-fruit cocktail at Michifú (Calle trombone player Pulsating with salsa, reggaeton, Concordia; 7 ); and a classic Daiquiri hits the right note on son cubano, electronic and fusion, instant at Jesús María 20 (same address; 8 ). the Malecón; below, Havana’s music scene is as hot as ever. a salsa concert at Different haunts host various artists, Casa de la Música; l escapes Looking for a perfectly photogenic chill-out time at so you’ll need cubanessjournal.com for sunset? Wander along Centro Habana’s Plaza Vieja events listings. You might dance to kings of timba Havana d’Primera at Miramar’s Casa de la Música (Calle 20, 3308 esq 35; £8; 13 ) or Club 1830 (Ave 17 Malecón y Calle 22; £4; 14 ); or hear Straits of Florida fusion maestros Interactivo at Bertolt Brecht (Calle 13 cnr Calle I; £4; 15 ) and Hot-stuffHavana sizzling Afro-Cuban funk artist Cuba? Sleepy? Not its buzzing capital, baby. This place sizzles with life! Cimafunk at Fábrica de Arte Cubano 15 Malecón 27 35 30 4 (Calle 26, cnr 11; £1.50; fac.cu; 16 ). 24 6 VEDADO 7 3 32 9 11 25 The sexiest city in the Caribbean has always had an edgy, dishevelled 29 19 OLD HAVANA l Beach time! The best within reach 21 CENTRAL PARK 1 17 glamour and a thrill of cultural creativity. But these days its steamy allure 14 12 34 of the city is Santa María del Mar . Hire 20 10 18 2 28 a sunlounger and sip a Piña Colada at comes with the extra chispa (spark) of entrepreneurship. Look between HAVANA 31 5 26 16 33 8 the no-name shack. There’s no decent 22 SAN the ramshackle mansions and sharp-angled Communist monuments ISIDRO lunch spot, so grab a picnic in town from MIRAMAR El Café (Amargura 358e/Villegas y and you’ll find funky galleries and rooftop bars. By Claire Boobbyer 13 Aguacate; about £7; 18 ). Get there using 23 N the door-to-door Habana Bus Tour KOHLY 0 1km service from Central Park, opposite Hotel Inglaterra (£3.20 return; 19 ).> 136 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL FEBRUARY 2020 FEBRUARY 2020 SUNDAY TIMES TRAVEL 137 ✂ instant escapes CUT-OUT-AND-GO GUIDE I HOT-STUFF HAVANA EAT LOCAL BARS l Arty lunch spot l Hip sundowners BELVIEW ART CafE (Mains El DEL FRENTE about £5) Because: The city’s coolest vibe is right Because: This cafe in a chic colonial villa here on this rooftop bar, along with serves fresh-to-order crepes, coffee brilliant cocktails. Travel’s tip: You can and a rocking Mamey (pink tropical fruit) eat here, too; try the superb tostones milkshake. Travel’s tip: Fancy cafe- pelotones (ceviche on fried plantain hopping? Nearby Casa de la Amistad is with beetroot and sesame; £6). a glorious pink confection. Calle 6 412, O’Reilly 303e/Habana y Aguiar; 6 . cnr of 19; 00 53 7832 5429; 20. l Colonial cocktails l Gourmet breakfast El DandY SalchIPIZZA (Breakfast £6) Because: This boho street-corner Because: Alberto Gonzalez Ceballos, watering hole in a colonial home former head chef at a Michelin-starred is prime people-watching territory. restaurant in Italy, came home to open Travel’s tip: The Daiquiri is a killer (in SHOPPING this bakery. Start the day here with SPREE a good way). Calle Brasil (Teniente the likes of fried duck and quail eggs, Near El Dandy are Rey) 401 e/Villegas & Cristo, Plaza homemade bread and herb butters. some of Havana’s del Cristo; bareldandy.com; 25. Travel’s tip: Finish off with ice cream coolest stores: Clandestina (big in Cuba). Top emporium Monte (Villegas 403) for l Well-mixed mocktails Freddo is a few minutes’ walk away. bargain designer JIBARO Infanta 562e/Valle y Zapata; 00 53 totes and T-shirts, Because: A rustic hole-in-the-wall and Experimental 21 5281 8792; . Gallery for joint, framed by street art, it serves graphic posters up booze and Havana’s best mocktails: l Vegetarian specialties and curios (321 try the deeply refreshing Pink Ale. HEchO EN Casa (Mains about £9) Armagura y Travel’s tip: Boxing is big news in Cuba. Aguacate) Because: Charming chef-owner Alina Catch future champs training at the Menéndez Lamas cooks fresh, organic Rafael Trejo ring around the corner. garden-to-table dishes — vegetarian Merced 69e/Cuba y San Ignacio; 26. moussaka and a killer Cuban chocolate ice cream. Book ahead. Travel’s tip: Pick up local cheese from Alina’s deli. STAY l Stylish welcome l Colonial glamour GET ME THERE WRITER’S Calle 14 no 511 e/ 5ta y 7ma; 00 53 7202 ASK THE l Hip family homestay PasEO PEnthOUSE (Doubles TIP GARDEns (Two two-bedroom GO INDEPENDENT 5392, hechoencasacuba.com; 22. LOCAL Casa LIllY (Doubles from £30, from £146, B&B) Arranging floors from £200, B&B) Virgin Atlantic flies from Gatwick Habanera Patricia Santa room only) Because: Seamless hospitality is the accommodation Because: Set in a funky corner of Old from £668 return. Air Europa flies via in Havana can be l Glam fine dining Coloma is a film-script Because: You’ll get as much comfort, modus operandi of the couple running Havana, you can either rent the two Madrid from £596 return. Air France- supervisor and founder of hard work, but OtRAMANERA (Mains about £10) independent media outfit space and luxury as you would in this spacious, mid-century-looking cubatravel floors separately — with shared use of KLM flies via Paris and Amsterdam Because: This fashionable spot offers Producciones Almendares more expensive boutique stays at this joint. Take breakfast on the terrace network.com (for the living and dining rooms and bijou from £812 return. Mediterranean-rooted food with traditional casa particular (guesthouse) or on the sunny roof with bird’s-eye hotels) and cuba patio— or take over the whole house. casa.co.uk (for a Cuban touch: meaty lamb burgers, If your hotel doesn’t offer in leafy Vedado. Travel’s tip: Tap your views of the swanky neighbourhood. Swan about, play on the vintage piano GO PACKAGED C homestays) have I velvety guava panna cotta, plus a wine breakfast, try Lo de Monik host, Lilly, for advice: she has her finger Travel’s tip: International data-roaming live availability, and mix drinks at the honesty bar. Cuba Private Travel (cubaprivatetravel. APH R list from the Spanish sommelier (Chacón esq Compostela; £4; 27 ) for firmly on the cultural pulse. Ave de los G is complicated in Cuba. Here, though, which makes Travel’s tip: The concierge loves a com) has seven days in Havana staying O T things easier co-owner. Travel’s tip: A great dining great-value fresh fruit, breads and rich Presidentes 301 apto 13e/13 y 15; R a hassle-free 4G-fitted smartphone is challenge — ask him to arrange a picnic at Gardens, including a private guide and 30 spot before or after a concert at nearby coffee.