187 East Himalaya – Darjeeling & Sikkim HIGHLIGHTS View the huge flanks of Khangchendzonga (p191) – the third-highest mountain in the world Appreciate the multitude of blooms in some of the Himalaya’s finest rhododendron forests (p194) Camp alongside yak-herders’ encampments on the ever-popular Dzongri & Goecha La trek (p194) DA E AST H I R J Wander through the multitude of Nepalese villages along the Singalila Ridge (p191) ee Appreciate the Tibetan community at the isolated village of Tsokha (p196) deep in the forests LI N M of Sikkim G & ALA S Y I A – kk I Khangchendzonga – the third highest mountain in the world, provides an M inspiring backdrop when trekking in Darjeeling and Sikkim. Until the discovery of the height of Mt Everest in the 19th century, Khangchendzonga was considered to be the highest mountain in the world. Viewing its huge flanks rising high above the foothills, it is not hard to understand why, while the many 7000m peaks complete an impressive panorama. Yet there are more than mountain views to whet the appetite of the seasoned trekker. The trails lead from steamy, subtropical forest with bamboo, luxuriant ferns and orchids to temperate forest bands with ancient oak and rhododendron trees before heading to the alpine meadows that afford uninterrupted views of the high mountains. There are also the cultural attractions. If trekking through the dominantly Nepalese villages situated on the Singalila Ridge out of Darjeeling, it would not be hard to imagine that you were undertaking a trek in Nepal. In Sikkim, anticipate visiting Lepcha settlements and Tibetan villages (established by Tibetans exiled from their homeland in 1959) as well as opportunities to share campsites with yak herders who graze their animals on the alpine slopes throughout the summer. 188 • EAST HIMALAYA – DARJeeLING & SIKKIM • History lonelyplanet.com HISTORY to grant them Darjeeling in exchange for an Darjeeling annual payment. Darjeeling was part of Sikkim until the be- However, the rajah was not totally com- ginning of the 19th century. In 1780 the fortable with the agreement. In 1849 matters Gurkhas invaded Sikkim as part of their came to a head when the British Superin- plan to establish a vast trans-Himalayan tendent of Darjeeling, and the renowned empire. The British East India Company botanist Dr Joseph Hooker, were arrested by was drawn into the conflict, leading to the authorities while touring Sikkim. The British Gurkha Wars. This resulted in the Treaty of took this as an affront and, after the release Siliguri in 1817. Territory lost to the Gur- of the prisoners, temporarily withdrew the khas was restored to the rajahs of Sikkim, rajah’s stipend and annexed the area between on the condition that the British took con- the Sikkim border and the Indian Plains. This trol of their external affairs. It was during a effectively redrew the borders of Sikkim, cut- local border dispute in 1828 that two British ting it off from the plains except through officers visited Darjeeling and recognised British territory, while giving Darjeeling di- its potential as a hill station. This infor- rect access to the rest of British India. M mation was not lost on the authorities in The development of Darjeeling was I Calcutta; in 1835, they pressured the rajah rapid. The newly completed road from the kk A – I Y S ALA G & Darjeeling & Sikkim M N LI ee C H I N A Chomoyummo J (6829m) R E AST H I ( T I B E T ) DA Thanggu Pauhunri (7125m) Shudu Tsenpa (7032m) Yumthang Dome Kang Lach S I K K I M Pyramid Peak (7442m) Chu (7123m) eng C H I N A Kirat Chuli ( T I B E T ) (7365m) Lachen Lachen Chu Khangchenzonga Lachung (8586m) DARJEELING & SIKKIM – TREKS Talung KHANGCHENDZONGA (7349m) NATIONAL 1 Singalila Ridge & Phalut p192 PARK Chungthang p195 Kabru North 2 Dzongri & Goecha La Goecha La ver (7338m) Ri (4940m) esta Rathong Te Kyongnosla Kokthang (6679m) Mangan Alpine B H U T A N (6147m) Sanctuary Rathong Yatung Phodong Tsomgo Menam Fambong Lho Lake Natu Baktim (3235m) Wildlife La River Sanctuary S I K K I M Gangtok Yuksom Rabang Ranipul Kupup 2 Rumtek 0 40 km Singali La Pelling Pemayangste Singtam 0 20 miles Dentam Ram Gezing N E P A L on Rangpo The external boundaries of India Soreng Namchi Riv on this map have not been authenticated S Namthang i and may not be correct. n er Sombare g Phulat Jorethang a Chhukha l i l a Singalila Kalimpong Teesta R National Park Dorokha i Bazar d il l s g Darjeeling g H e Tiger Hill l in rjee (2590m) Da B H U T A N Matiali 1 Samthar Ghoom Plateau Samtse B A N G L A Mongpong Mirik Kurseong Jaigaon Buxa Tiger Pankhabari Reserve Tees 31 B A N G L A Kalchini ta Ramshai Siliguri River Birpara Jalhapara Bagdogra 31 Wildlife Kakarbhitta New Jalpaiguri Sanctuary To Kathmandu 31 Paniktanki Bangabandhu Rajabhat Khawa Hwy ra Dhupagari Mainaguri Jal M ahend dakha Falakata Alipur C Duar hu Bhadrapur Jalpaiguri u Tetulia.