UNIVERSITY OF OKLAHOMA GRADUATE COLLEGE MARKETING FOOD, MAKING MEANING: THEMES IN TWENTIETH-CENTURY AMERICAN FOOD ADVERTISING A Dissertation SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE FACULTY in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy By HELEN J. ROBERTSON Norman, Oklahoma 2005 UMI Number: 3206133 UMI Microform 3206133 Copyright 2006 by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights reserved. This microform edition is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest Information and Learning Company 300 North Zeeb Road P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, MI 48106-1346 MARKETING FOOD, MAKING MEANING: THEMES IN TWENTIETH-CENTURY AMERICAN FOOD ADVERTISING A Dissertation APPROVED FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF GEOGRAPHY BY: ________________________________________ Karl Offen, committee chair ________________________________________ Andy Wood ________________________________________ Bruce Hoagland ________________________________________ Heidi Mau ________________________________________ Robert Rundstrom © Copyright by HELEN J. ROBERTSON 2005 All Rights Reserved Acknowledgments To paraphrase a food ad, I can’t believe I wrote the whole thing. I didn’t do it alone, though, so there are many whose support and encouragement I want to acknowledge here: Karl Offen Advisor extraordinaire My committee: Andy Wood Bruce Hoagland Heidi Mau Robert Rundstrom Gavin Bridge The OU Geography Department faculty and staff My fellow geography graduate students (see, it does end!) The OU Graduate College My family—no more school after this, I promise. Uncle Ken and Aunt Sally, my wonderful godparents. Uncle Dave and Aunt Ruth, for the gift of the farm in my life. Marie, Paul, and Tim, my biking therapy team: They pulled me uphill and into the wind the whole way. Friends who never let me forget they were on my side: BJ • Bird • Brooke • Cindy & Tim • David • Deena • Geoff • GFJ • Hildegard • Jane • Jim • Joan • Joyce • Julie & Matt • Kaye • Lea & Todd • Libby • Linda • Mary • Melissa • Monica • Periann • Rae • Regina • Sweet Adelines • Wayne & Kathy • Wendy and Bill Hicks, a constant reminder that it’s just a ride. Thanks, all of you. iv Table of Contents Acknowledgments............................................................................................................ iv List of Illustrations............................................................................................................ vi Abstract......... .................................................................................................................... ix Chapter 1: Introduction...................................................................................................... 1 Chapter 2: Background.................................................................................................... 18 Meaning in the Mundane........................................................................... 24 Reading Advertisements............................................................................ 31 All You Can Eat.......................................................................................... 37 Chapter 3: Eating Memory.............................................................................................. 44 National Memory....................................................................................... 48 Historical Craft.......................................................................................... 54 Childhood Memories................................................................................. 58 Taste Memory............................................................................................. 64 Cultural Traditions.................................................................................... 68 Chapter 4: Eating the Place.............................................................................................. 75 Product as Place........................................................................................ 80 Inserting the Product into the Place.......................................................... 86 Place as Brand........................................................................................... 95 Gardens of Eating.................................................................................... 104 Chapter 5: Eating Health................................................................................................ 111 Eat Your Vitamins.................................................................................... 118 Vitamins Restored.................................................................................... 122 Drink This!............................................................................................... 125 ! Nature’s Perfect Foods............................................................................! 128 Food as Medicine.................................................................................... 137 Energy and Diet....................................................................................... 146 Hygiene.................................................................................................... 151 Chapter 6: Eating Convenience...................................................................................... 159 Speedy and Easy...................................................................................... 164 Baking as a Problem................................................................................ 172 ! It’s a Man Trap........................................................................................! 180 A Good Brand is Hard to Find................................................................ 186 Chapter 7: Shadows on the Wall.................................................................................... 201 Bibliography. ................................................................................................................. 208 Appendix 1.... ................................................................................................................. 225 v List of Illustrations Chapter 1 Figure 1.1! “Little Bit,” 2002.........................................................................................! 9 Chapter 2 Figure 2.1 1992 USDA food pyramid......................................................................... 21 Figure 2.2 Food marketing pyramid........................................................................... 22 Figure 2.3 Food consumption pyramid....................................................................... 23 Figure 2.4! “Crystal Cruises,” 2003.............................................................................! 36 Chapter 3 Figure 3.1! “Remember,” 1975....................................................................................! 47 Figure 3.2! “Making History,” 1940............................................................................! 49 Figure 3.3! “Truly American Soup,” 1945...................................................................! 50 Figure 3.4! “Wigwam,” 1920.......................................................................................! 52 Figure 3.5! “Vermont Maid,” 1950..............................................................................! 54 Figure 3.6! “Spirit of America,” 1975..........................................................................! 55 Figure 3.7! “This Special Milk,” 1947.........................................................................! 56 Figure 3.8! “Pa Will Never Know,” 1941....................................................................! 57 Figure 3.9! “Farm Chicken Soup,” 1941......................................................................! 60 Figure 3.10! “Brer Rabbit,” 1920...................................................................................! 62 Figure 3.11! “Memories,” 1970.....................................................................................! 63 Figure 3.12! “Fresh Garden Taste,” 1925.......................................................................! 66 Figure 3.13! “Basket of Goodness,” 1941......................................................................! 67 Figure 3.14! “Best of the Earth......................................................................................! 68 Figure 3.15! “Farm Breakfast,” 1947.............................................................................! 69 Figure 3.16! “Beer and Baseball,” 1945.........................................................................! 70 Figure 3.17! “Thanksgiving,” 1940................................................................................! 72 Chapter 4 Figure 4.1! “What’s in It,” 1970...................................................................................! 76 Figure 4.2! “Glamorous Hawaii,” 1935.......................................................................! 81 Figure 4.3! “Exotic,” 1935...........................................................................................! 82 Figure 4.4! “On Top of the World,” 1941.....................................................................! 83 Figure 4.5! “Savage Delight,” 1965.............................................................................! 84 Figure 4.6! “Live a Little,” 1970..................................................................................! 86 Figure 4.7! “Rice-a-Roni,” 1970..................................................................................!