Cambodia and Laos 15th February – 1st March 2020 Leader: Mike Nelson Participants: Chandra Biggerstaff, David Graham, Barbara Greatorex, Pamela Hodgson, Brian and Gina Lloyd, Bob Proniewych and Ken Petersen Chinese Grassbird © Mike Nelson / Birdtour Asia Residing in the old heartland of the Khmer Empire, Cambodia boasts some of the world’s most stunning temples. It is also home to several of Asia’s most desirable species that include Giant and White-shouldered Ibis, White- rumped Falcon, White-winged Duck, Mekong Wagtail, Bengal Florican, Cambodian Tailorbird and Chinese Grassbird. Wintering Manchurian Reed Warbler and Yellow-breasted Buntings were greatly appreciated, and in neighbouring Laos the recently described Bare-faced Bulbul inhabits the limestone karst of the western Annamites. Our tour covered the wonderful temples of the Angkor complex with Bayon, Ta Prohm and Angkor Wat the main features. Here the forests were home to Hainan Blue Flycatcher, White-throated Rock Thrush, Asian Barred Owlet and Black Baza. Birding around the grasslands east of Tonle Sap we found the Critically Endangered Bengal Florican, Manchurian Reed Warbler, several Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers. Heading north into the dry forests along the Thai border we found White-winged Duck after a patient dusk vigil, White- shouldered and Giant Ibis included the latter on the nest attending a chick. Both Collared Falconet and White- rumped Falcon put in appearances, several woodpeckers that included huge Great Slaty Woodpeckers doing their spread wing, waving display, a vibrant Rufous-bellied and smart looking Black-headed Woodpeckers were highlights. We then continued east to the Mekong River for Mekong Wagtail and Irrawaddy River Dolphins before heading south via some secondary habitat for Cambodian Tailorbird, a recently described endemic. Further to the south we headed to the mountains of Bokor National Park making a stop along the way for Chinese Grassbird, a bird thought confined to the area around Hong Kong until it was discovered in Myanmar and here in 2012. The mountains of Bokor gave us Chestnut-headed Partridge, and our bird of the trip, a magnificent Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl that cruised in out of the night to perch above us. It was then off to Laos for Bare-faced Bulbul, and though the area was quiet we still picked up Streaked Wren-Babbler, Moustached Barbet, Spot-necked Babbler and a trip along the river produced Small Pratincole and the hoped for Jerdon’s Bushchat. Overall, we had 279 species with nine heard only, and combined with wonderfully fragrant and flavourful food, stunning historical sites and warm and friendly people it made for a very pleasant tour. Collared Falconet and Bengal Florican We all gathered in Siem Reap, home to the awesome Angkor Wat complex, a massive collection of temples and ruins. Our first visit was to the temple at Bayon with its many Buddha facades, and then to Ta Prhom made famous by the tall figs whose roots have coiled, like the snake deity Naga seen along the entrance bridge, all around the buildings and interwoven through many cracks and crevices. After a sumptuous lunch it was then off to the monumental temple of Angkor Wat, built in the 12th century it was originally Hindu but is now Buddhist. Its five-lotus bud shaped towers representing the five peaks of Mount Meru, home of the gods, is an impressive architectural site. Thankfully the area is also surrounded by forest in many places allowing us some nice initial birding along with the amazing cultural sites. Pale-legged Leaf Warblers, a beautiful male White-throated Rock- thrush, Asian Barred Owlet and Hainan Blue Flycatcher showed in the understory along with several Forest Wagtails picking through the leaf litter. Noisy Red-breasted and Alexandrine Parakeets along with Common Hill Myna called from the tops of trees while Black Bazas raced through the canopy and above us several Shikra circled. The following day we headed out to the sprawling grasslands east of Tonle Sap Lake to find our number one target, Bengal Florican. We found several obliging birds, beginning with a nice male during breakfast before heading out into the grass where we found a further six birds over the course of the morning with another two stunning males and three females. Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers scoured the grassy savanna while in the skies above them Oriental Skylarks sang and Painted Storks drifted past. Combing through some dense, tall grasses we found several Manchurian Reed Warblers showing briefly as they skulked between the grassy stalks. We then managed to spook a pair of Blue-breasted Quail and in the stubble grass we flushed a few Small Buttonquail. Ones and twos of Oriental Pratincoles took to the skies as we moved around and we encountered several Stejneger’s Stonechats and Red Avadavats as well as a lone Australasian Bushlark. Tearing ourselves away from the verdant grasslands we headed north towards the deciduous forests stopping en route for a nice Collared Falconet whose hunting prowess was made evident as we watched. Taking flight on two occasions it swooped down onto unsuspecting prey returning back both times with a tasty morsel. Arriving in the north we spent three days experiencing some of south east Asia’s rarest birds. Our first afternoon was a bird-filled affair with the newly-split Deignan’s Prinia, a three-way split of Brown Prinia. There was Indochinese Cuckooshrike and Small and Scarlet Minivets in the canopy above, while a Grey-capped Woodpecker scoured the trunks of the trees around us. The massive floating form of a Lesser Adjutant circled us at one point. Blossom-headed Parakeets landed close by while a distant pair of Oriental Pied Hornbills flew past. A Black-hooded Oriole put in a brief appearance while an Indochinese Bushlark sat atop a tree regaling us with his high-pitched song. With dusk approaching and it was time to head to our next position to await the arrival of White-winged Duck to their favoured roosting perch. Waiting patiently, we listened to the growing dusk chorus of White-rumped Shamas and some explosive calls from Green Peafowl until we picked up the subtle honking of the ducks as they approached. Their calls got louder as they arrived and with heavy wing beats landed on a huge bough in front of us. Taking a few minutes to settle down they walked along the branch giving us broadside views of their name sake white wings as well as their freckled heads before the light was almost gone. Quietly we slunk out of our hiding place and back to our vehicles. The following morning, we birded the surrounding forest and a small reed lined pond where we found Rufous Treepie, Orange-breasted Green Pigeons, a nice pair of Black-collared Starlings, a noisy and showy duo of Puff- throated Babblers, and a typically skulking Radde’s Warbler. The skies were patrolled by an Oriental Honeybuzzard and Rufous-winged Buzzards while the thick, choking reeds held several Black-browed Reed Warblers, and in the emergent snags sat Little Cormorant and Oriental Darters. Puff-throated Babbler and Black-collared Starling It was then off to our next stop at Tmatboey for three full days of birding the trapeangs and dry, deciduous forests of the area. Tmatboey village is tucked away in the Preah Vihear hinterland. Some 15 years ago now, WCS, a conservation NGO started community work here to preserve the habitat, and the wildlife. Since then it has grown into one of the world’s best example of a community-based ecotourism scheme, whereby the whole village directly profits from visiting birders, not just a handful minority. The main target here are two of the world’s Critically Endangered ibis, Giant and White-shouldered and we encountered both our first morning. A roosting spot is known for White-shouldered Ibis and we were in place before sunrise and could then begin to make out the silhouettes of three birds as they woke, preened and called a few times. Through our scopes we could make out the white shoulder and white throat as more light appeared over the horizon. Eventually one flew off, calling as it went, and soon after the other two followed. It was then off for the near mythical Giant Ibis and again it was nailed on as a pair were nesting and there was one adult with a chick when we arrived providing good scope views. Great to see the next generation coming along. Two of our main targets in the bag we were able to concentrate on the rest of our avian objectives. Woodpeckers showed in good numbers during our time here with Greater Flameback; Black-headed, Yellow- crowned, Freckle-breasted, Grey-capped and Great Slaty Woodpeckers, the latter putting on a show on two different occasions, calling manically to each other with wings spread as they danced around the tree trunks. Once these massive grey monsters get wound up, they can display for a while and it was enjoyable to watch. One of our favourites though was the first afternoon’s Rufous-bellied Woodpecker that showed particularly well and with its beautiful plumage it was no wonder it stood out amongst the many picids we found. Thick-billed and Yellow-footed Green Pigeons added to the list with a good number of cuculids that included a dusk Indian Cuckoo circling us, Banded Bay Cuckoo, a nice pair of Violet Cuckoos and Asian Koel. There were noisy Large and Indochinese Cuckooshrikes foraging in the trees with Ashy, Small and Scarlet Minivets. Sharp- looking Burmese Shrikes dotted the landscape ready to pounce on any unsuspecting prey and they were joined by plenty of Drongos with Black, Ashy (both bondi and leucogenis subspecies), Greater Racket-tailed, Bronzed and Hair-crested who all did their utmost to rid the area of insects, swooping to-and-fro.