Experience the passion for Color and Luxury. USER’S MANUAL 1 Index Hair: its basic structure and natural colour The hair’s macrostructure ................................................................................................................7 The hair’s original colour ..................................................................................................................8 The concepts of colorimetry Chromatic laws .................................................................................................................................... 13 Chromatics ............................................................................................................................................. 14 Colours and reflexes ......................................................................................................................... 16 The Newton disc ................................................................................................................................. 17 Hair colour and appearance Universal classification ....................................................................................................................21 Hair lightening scale ..........................................................................................................................23 Colouring hair .......................................................................................................................................24 The oxidants .........................................................................................................................................26 pH Classification .................................................................................................................................27 Corrective agents or intensifiers ................................................................................................28 Toning agents ........................................................................................................................................29 Decolorizing products ......................................................................................................................30 The pigmentizing emulsions (“warm colour” and “cool colour”) ...........................35 Luxury® Hair Color The Luxury® approach to hair colour ......................................................................................39 Tonality® Soft Color The Tonality® approach to soft hair colour ...........................................................................45 Luxury and Tonality: instructions for use Preparing your client .........................................................................................................................51 Luxury: first application on natural hair .................................................................................52 First application on previously coloured hair .....................................................................53 Covering grey hair ..............................................................................................................................54 Washing and rinsing ..........................................................................................................................56 Tonality: instructions for use ........................................................................................................57 PART ONE Hair: its basic structure and natural colour 5 The hair’s macrostructure Human hair consists of a shaft and the root. The shaft, the visible part, has a diameter that ranges between 40 – 120 microns. It is made up of dead cells and is completely keratinized. In the transversal section of the shaft, three concentric parts are visible. 1) THE CUTICLE (the outer layer) CUTICLE CORTEX 2) THE MEDULLA (the central region) MEDULLA 3) THE CORTEX ( the main structure) 1. THE CUTICLE This is the outer layer. It consists of flat cells or scales that fit together like tiles on a roof. They are 45 microns in length and approximately 0.5 – 0.10 microns in diameter. In human hair the cuticle has a diameter of 5/10 scales. 2. THE MEDULLA The medulla forms the central part of the shaft, resembling a column. It contains a low density of cells. The cells group together, leaving empty spaces of considerable dimension. In respect to other parts the medulla is of less importance, therefore it contributes less to the chemical/physical behaviour of the hair’s fibre. 3. THE CORTEX This consists of cells with an approximate diameter of between 1 – 6 microns and is approx. 100 microns in length. These cells contain the pigments that give the original colour to hair. The cortex represents 90% of the total weight of the hair’s fibre. The basic fibre consists of microfibrils that aggregate together and this structure is considered to be the accomodating factor for 11 protofibrils. Each one of these contains three keratinic (peptides) chains which are parallel to the fibre’s axis and formed from cells with a helical structure. The helix represents the elementary unit of the general organization of the fibre. A chemical analysis of the hair shows the presence of: • CARBON (50%) • OXYGEN (25%) • NITROGEN (7%) • HYDROGEN (6,5%) • SULFER (4,5%) 7 The hair’s original colour The natural colour of hair is due to specific pigments found in the cortex. These are provided by pigments produced by cells called melanocytes – generally known as melanin. In humans, hair colour originates from just two types of melaninic pigment: the eumelanin and the pheomelanin. The eumelanines are responsible for the brown and black shades of hair, whereas the pheomelanines are responsible for red and blonde shades. The different colours in hair are due to a combination of these two basic, biochemical structures. If mixed, using different measures of pigment, we are able to obtain a variety of natural tonalities. Eumelanin These are proteins which are extremely stable and resistant, originating from tyrosin. The biochemical structure of eumelanin is obtained from the transformation of the amino acid tyrosin in dopa quinone and dopa amino and the fusion of a stable formation of molecules. The key enzyme in this process is the tyrosin. The more activity there is from the tyrosin, the more eumelanin is produced. This is the fundamental reason why we find the lightest of brown shades but also dark browns and black. Quite simply: + tyrosin= + eumelanin = darker hair colour. Pheomelanin These are proteins originating from the tyrosin as in the case of the eumelanin and the process of their formation is similar to the previous example. Pheomelanin is produced when, during the production of eumelanin, an intermediary product interacts with the amino acid cysteine. This provokes the formation of a pheomelanin molecule which contains sulf from the cysteine. These molecules are a colour ranging between orange and brown and they influence, to quite an extent, the different tonalities of the hair. The more the interaction between the dopa quinones and the cysteine, the more yellow and orange are the pigments produced. In people with darker hair, we have a more intense production of eumelanin. In people with naturally red hair, more pheomelanin is produced. As a study of the quantities of eumelanin and pheomelanin in human hair suggests: 8 • Black hair is 99% eumelanin and 1% pheomelanin; • Brown and blonde hair 95% eumelanin, 5% pheomelanin; • Red hair 67% eumelanin, 33% pheomelanin (Borges 2001) Even in people with dark hair however, yellow and orange pigment (pheomelanin) is produced, yet it is masked by a dark pigment (eumelanin). In people with brown hair, it should be said, the red/yellow pigment can cause brown hair to have warm golden and auburn glints. During the aging process hair becomes gradually more grey due to the lessened activity of the tyrosin which is at its height in the mid-life period. Inevitably, the necessity to cover grey hair arises. It must be remembered that there is no cure for greying hair, and no diet or vitamin has so far proved capable of restoring natural colour to greying hair. Therefore, should one wish to overcome the unpleasant effects of greying hair it is necessary to turn to ARTIFICIAL COLOUR. Today, modern science has contributed infinite possibilities to hair cosmetics. 9 PART TWO The concepts of colorimetry 11 Chromatic laws WHAT ARE CHROMATICS? As this is a considerably complex subject, we will limit ourselves to the very basic concepts of COLOUR and CHROMATICS ( or COLOURMETRICS) in professional hair colour. Scientific definition: colourmetrics is the science that studies the characteristics of colour and what determines these characterisitcs. Our eyes can only perceive a minimum part of the sun’s rays. The light is white in colour and there are visible and invisible rays which are classified under one heading. We could compare the human eye to a wireless receiver and the sun to a wireless transmitter. Anything coming into contact with light acts as a mirror, totally or partially absorbing or reflecting the sun’s rays. • Each colour of the sun’s spectrum has its own particular “wavelength”. • The shortest ray perceived by the human eye is violet and it can be calculated that this has a density of approx. 67,000 every 3 cm. • Red light has longer, more visible rays: approx. 33,000 every 3 cm. • Medium length waves appear yellow. • Should all the waves be absorbed, the perception would be black. • Should, on the other hand, the waves of the spectrum be reflected,