Northern Peru Naturetrek Tour Report 2 - 18 October 2008 Report compiled by Xavier Munoz Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Northern Peru Tour Leader: Xavier Munoz (Local Guide) Participants: Richard Reader Susan Lee Terry Lee Sheila Alliez Day 1 Thursday 2nd October Everybody arrived on time with no problems to Lima. We stayed in a nice and cosy hotel in the capital of Peru. We knew it was going to be a short night before our early flight the next morning. Day 2 Friday 3rd October Our early flight to Iquitos was boarded on time. We arrived at Iquitos and the people from Muyuna Lodge were already waiting for us at the airport, we took a bus to the office and after finishing the last logistical issues we bought some extra rain ponchos before taking our panga ride to the Amazon River. Just as we embarked we saw Green Ibis, Yellow–billed Terns, Large-billed Terns flying around the port. Our ride started in a fast panga with our local guide. On the way we saw Gray River Dolphins and a couple of Pink River Dolphins. After four hours we reached the Muyuna Lodge. The surrounding forest was impressive and the lodge itself was simple but comfortable, and cabins had private bathrooms. After lunch we started our first exploration through the Muyuna River, it was nice to see the five species of kingfishers in one afternoon; Ringed, Amazon, Green, Green and Rufous, and American Pygmy Kingfishers were seen in less than three hours. These waterways are really biodiverse. Days 2/3 Saturday 4th/Sunday 5th October These two days were dedicated to walking the trails of the community and also taking daily canoe rides through waterways of flooded forest which provided some great birds such as: Blue–cheeked Jacamar, White-eared Jacamar, Amazonia Pygmy Owl, Short-tailed Parrot, Scarlet-crowned Barbet, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Plain– breasted Piculet, Chestnut Woodpecker, Lineated Woodpecker, Long-billed Woodcreeper, Barred Antshrike, White-flanked Antbird, Amazonian Antshrike, Band-tailed Antbird, Plumbeous Antbird, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Wire-tailed Manakin, Spotted Tody Flycatcher, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Cinnamon Attila, Turquoise Tanager, Paradise Tanager, Opal-crowned Tanager, Green Honeycreeper, Caqueta Seedeater, Red- capped Cardinal, among many others. We had the chance to see some Spider Monkeys, and Pygmy Marmosets. Day 4 Monday 6th October We had our last morning in the area of the Muyuna community. In the morning we walked around the main trail and saw Purple Honeycreeper, Swallow Tanager, White-breasted Wood-Wren, Piratic Flycatcher, Black-tailed Tityra, Drab Water Tyrant , Black-collared Hawk (frequent), Great-black Hawk. © Naturetrek April 09 1 Northern Peru Tour Report After lunch we departed to Iquitos again. Muyuna was without question a great experience of lowland rainforest. We were witnesses to the real biodiversity of these forests. Once in Iquitos we checked in to Hotel Regia. Day 5 Tuesday 7th October This morning we visited Alpahuallo Misahana Reserve located just 35 minutes away from Iquitos. Our driver and local guide picked us up early in the morning. A habitat/region of unique white sand awaited us there. Some of the birds seen here were: Paradise Jacamar, Pompadour Cotinga (female) Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Red- stained Woodpecker, Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner, Alpahuallo Antbird (heard only), Silvered Antbird, Black- chinned Antbird, White-crowned Manakin, Yellow-browed Tody-flycatcher, Grayish Mourner, Masked Tityra, Buff-breasted Wren, Huallga Tanager, and Black-faced Dacnis, amongst many others. In the afternoon we headed back to the hotel to refresh a little bit waiting for our late flight to Tarapoto. We flew for about one hour and reached our hotel at 22:30. Day 6 Wednesday 8th October This morning we decided to drive east from Tarapoto to visit Juan Guerra location and Cerro Escalera, it was a nice and productive morning, with nice views of White-lined Tanager, Blue Dacnis, Swallow Tanager, Black and White Seedeater, Saffron Finch, Ashy-headed Greenlet, Streaked Flycatcher, Rufous Casiornis, Golden-faced Tyrannulet, Lined Antshrike, Mouse-colored Antshrike, Great Anthshrike, White-chinned Jacamar, Amazonian White-tailed Trogon, Brown Violetear, and Mitred Parakeet. After our lunch we started our drive to Moyobamba which was our next destination. Day 7 Thursday 9th October The forest and patches on both sides of the road to Pumas Hotel located in Florida is a nice birding experience as the area is at the edge of the Alto Mayo National protected area. Today we basically drove along the main road and made some stops on the way in order to see such species as Wattled Guan, Plumbeous Pigeon, Canary- winger Parakeet, Band-winged Nightjar, Gray-breasted Sabrewing, White necked Jacobin, Gilded Barbet, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Rufous Spinetail, White-striped Manakin, Black-faced Tanager, Masked Crimson Tanager, Plumbeous Euphonia, Saffron-crowned Tanager, and Chestnut-bellied Seedeater. We reached an elevation of 2,500 meters in the town of Florida by the end of the day. Day 8 Friday 10th October This morning we started early in the morning to visit the area of Guambo on the entrance to Florida town looking for the endemic unique hummingbird here, it was a medium/difficult walk of about 30 minutes uphill to reach the area. Finally we reached the top of the hill and then we were allocated the specific spot where the bird normally comes to pollinate the ericacia flowers…after at least 25 minutes two males appeared with a female , it was hard to get the best views, because they really move fast. At least three participants had a decent view. 2 © Naturetrek April 09 Northern Peru Tour Report We decided not to wait more and to try the following morning. We had spent enough time there and were sacrificing time, so we decided to visit other areas for other birds, this was a good decision and on this day we saw Green-tailed Trainbearer, Purple-collared Woodstar, White-bellied Woodstar, Green Violetear, Andean Gull (near the lake), Speckle-chested Piculet, Streaked Xenops, Olivaceous Piha, Torrent Tyrannulet, White-banded Tyrannulet, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Cliff Flycatcher, White-capped Dipper, and White-collared Jay among others. We finished our day and returned to the hotel late afternoon, then we did our checklist and rested for the next day. Day 9 Saturday 11th October Our second effort for the Spatulatail was worth it. All participants had excellent views and for longer periods of time that day before. We felt happy for seeing one of the most emblematic birds of the trip. We continued exploring the Abra Patricia area and had very nice views of some endemic birds such as Lulu’s Tody Tyrant and Royal Sunangel. The day was interesting with good views of Spectacled Whitestart, Common- bush Tanager, Gray-hooded Bush Tanager, Vermilion Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Chestnut- bellied Mountain Tanager, Orange-eared Tanager, Flame-faced Tanager, Spotted Tanager, Blue and black Tanager, and Golden-collared Honeycreeper - nice views of all these birds since we were at a lower elevation: 1,200 meters. A simple but good packed lunch was served to get energy for the afternoon. It was also productive, finding Cloud-forest Brush Finch, White-sided Flowerpiercer, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Brown-capped Vireo, Brown- bellied Swallow, Ashy-headed Tyrannulet, and Torrent Duck. We then drove back to our hotel in Florida. Day 10 Sunday 12th October We knew in advance this day was going to be long due to the driving time. The roads were not in the best condition due to some repairs, but we did stop in some areas where flocks were active and we were able to observe some nice and common birds such as Fasciated Tiger-heron, Plumbeous Rail, Spotted Sandpiper, Scarlet Fronted Parakeet, Spot-throated Hummingbird, Amazilia hummingbird, Tyrian Metaltail, Black-necked Woodpecker, (endemic) Black Phoebe, Crowned-chat Tyrant, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Inca Jay, Hooded Siskin, Lesser Goldfinch, Red Crowned Ant-tanager, Golden-rumped Euphonia, Blue and yellow Tanager, Moustached Flowerpiercer, Maranon-streaked Saltator, Golden-bellied Grosbeak, and sPeruvian Meadowlark amongt others. At the end of the day we reached the lodge Hacienda Chillo. Day 11 Monday 13th October We visited Kuelap, a very impressive archaeological ruin of pre-Inca times. We also learnt a lot about the Chachapoyas culture. We were really impressed with views of landscapes and although the birding was not our main focus this day we were able to see some birds such as Streaked Tufted-cheek, Pale-egged Hornero, Collared Antshrike, Tawny-crowned Pygmy Tyrant, Vermilion Flycatcher, Long-tailed Mockingbird, Striped Cuckoo, Scaled Pigeon, Croaking Ground-dove, Pearl Kite. We then left Keulap with enough time to drive to our next stop, Jaen. © Naturetrek April 09 3 Northern Peru Tour Report Day 12 Tuesday 14th October We started birding north of Jaen where some Maranon specialties occur. Our main goal today was to reach the Abra Porculla pass, although the driving was long we made at least two stops and got some good birds such as Broad-winged Hawk, Red-masked Parakeet, Pacific Parrotlet, Gray-chinned Hermit, Maranon Spinetail, Chinchipe Spinetail, Huallaga Slaty-Antshrike, Sierran Elaina, Tumbes-beardless Tyrannulet, Black and White Tody Tyrant, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, White-throated Kingbird, Black and White Becard, Black-capped Sparrow, Black-cowled Saltator, and Yellow-tailed Oriole. We then drove to Tucume to our nice hotel of Los Horcones. Day 13 Wednesday 15th October This morning we visited El Senor de Sipan Museum - an impressive place where you can learn in depth about the wisdom and customs of that culture.