This is your personal invitation to a cultural adventure of Latvia – a country in Northern Europe, by the Baltic Sea, celebrating its Centenary of statehood in 2018. One hundred years, one hundred stories – snapshots of the codes of our consciousness, values and virtues, a glimpse at both the changeable and the constant Latvia, a reflection of the zeitgeist. Just like any other nation, we have our unforgettable experiences and past traumas, which we strive to overcome, big and small victories that keep inspiring us and keep reminding us of the things worth fighting for, special people and landmarks as important symbols telling the story of who we are, our weaknesses and strengths, and our future ambitions. The ingredients that make a nation are often the same, but their endless combinations are what make each and every nation unique and beautiful. Just like in the story about Latgalian pottery – we are all different, yet made of the same substance. Let us explore, inspire, support and celebrate each other, because we are all connected. We are all one. Contents WHITE THE BIRTH SCENTS SINGING DOES SIZE MATTER? Page 7 Page 37 Page 59 Page 93 Page 113 The Dainas / Pagans / Local heroes. Francis The Latvian childhood / Dancing / The Song and Rīga. Bigger on the inside / The Lielvārde sash / Signs Trasūns / Local heroes. Tadenava / Kids on the Dance Celebration / A stage for excellence / and symbols / Ancestral Zigfrīds Anna Meierovics / move / The Talka / Birch Distant Light / The Useful connections / Fertile spirits / Ley lines / The The Satversme / Money / sap / Beauty tips / Beer / Melancholic Waltz / soil for new ideas / Looking Baltic Sea / Wood / The War of Independence / The When in doubt, use dill / Symbolism / Contemporary above and beyond / plait / The flower wreath / Freedom Monument / Pork The wooden house / art / Poetic documentary / The Cosmos / Peaceful Bar codes / Rye bread / and butter / Rīga Central Gardening / Mushrooming / Theatre / Alberta Street in coexistence / The next 100 The Baltic tribes / The Market / Another war. Fresh food / Smart Rīga / Opera and ballet / Namejs ring / The Latvian Another resistance / Forest fermentation / Green The Castle of Light / Love language / The diminutive / brothers / Soviet survival / pharmacy in a cupboard / of books / Great trees Smuki / The Daugava / The Baltic Way / Star of The weekend plan / Guest and Imants Ziedonis / Storks / Mittens / Kokle / resistance / The Barricades / etiquette / The threshold / Reading between the lines / The bathhouse / Amber / The Garden of Destiny / Rasols / Handmade / Introvert is the new black From tribe to nation Women / Diaspora / Marshes / Manor houses / Mavericks Rundāle Palace / Summer of festivals / Street culture / Cycling / Fashion / Basketball / Fans / Gaiziņš / Landscape 1 WHITE White is a very loaded word for us. It denotes a synthesis of aesthetic and ethical values. We start with the small word “fair”, which is a mixture of beautiful and honourable. Then we add the notion of “good” and a fair measure of something like clarity or translucence. We use “white” when referring to virtue and spirituality in people, deeds, even thinking, and it appears as an adjective in a thousand variations throughout the Dainas, our folksongs. Slowly, quietly drives God Downwards to the valley; Not a blossom is disturbed, Not a foal is startled. Sniķere Velta by Translated © Aldis Pūtelis Cabinet of Folksongs. The Lēni, lēni Dieviņš brauca 2 The Dainas No kalniņa lejiņā; Netraucēja ievas ziedu, Latvian folksongs, or Dainas, form one Keeping the form intact, it is clear there are Ne arāja kumeliņu. of the largest collections of versified influences that have evolved from many folk heritage in the world. They are the literary and historical periods over the collected wisdom and worldview of the centuries. The use of the diminutive form is Latvian people, encoded into 1.2 million a core element, making the Dainas almost four-to-six-line verses. Each verse contains impossible to successfully translate into rhyme, rhythm, poetry, metaphor and a any other language. Due to their extreme narrative. They describe the ritual markers compactness, around 100 characters, we of an entire human life, as well as advice like to think we were the forefathers of on how to live it well, and the seasonal micro-blogging. cycle of the natural world in great detail. A complex mythological world, detailed accounts of the working life and social customs is set out as though it is in the best history book – yet written in poetry. LATVIA CELEBRATES 100 YEARS 8 9 4 The Lielvārde sash Part of a woman’s folk dress, the Lievārde sash has an extremely complicated woven geometric pattern that changes up to 22 times in its approximately 3 metres of length. Visibly striking, and linked to the signs and graphic symbols of other ancient civilisations as far away as Asia, it was possibly used as a ritual protection or story telling device. Many scholars believe that some ancient coded information might lurk within it, capturing the imagination of modern-day designers, artists and craftsmen. The Lielvārde sash is part of the national cultural canon and as a design element it even appears in our passports. © Jurģis Rikveilis © Jurģis 3 Pagans We like to think of ourselves as pagans – appreciation At a time when nature of nature and the essence of a traditional world-view is under threat, it is lies deeply rooted in the soul of an average Latvian. Christian and pagan traditions have co-existed for perhaps wise that centuries, especially when it comes to major feast days we have never lost like Christmas or Easter. Pre-Christian veneration of belief in the need the sun, the obvious bringer of life, comes as logical given the northern climate we live in, and the ancestral for deference to the wisdom passed on from generation to generation in natural world. the form of folktales, legends, proverbs and folksongs is an inexhaustible source of inspiration, even in the digital age. © Latvia.travel LATVIA CELEBRATES 100 YEARS 10 11 5 Signs and symbols Woven into fabrics, carved into the wall above the main entrance of a house or pressed into a loaf of bread, these ancient Latvian signs were believed to protect against various evils and misfortunes, harmonise energies in the household or bring prosperity to its wearer. 1. God. Attracts divine and creative energy, 6. Austra’s Tree. Protects family and ances- symbol of masculinity. tors, fosters development, the protection of 2. Laima, the goddess of destiny. Sometimes virtues. Its roots symbolise the underground called Laima’s brush, the sign is a symbol of world, the middle – current life, and the crown good luck and happiness, harmonises rela- is the heavens. It’s a unity of past, present and 1. 2. 3. tionships among people. future. 3. Māra’s Cross. For the protection of mate- 7. Jumis. Shaped like two crossed ears of rial values – household and nourishment. A grain, the sign is a symbol of fertility and symbol of living matter. Māra looks after the welfare. Normally it was placed at the apex of material world. The sign was pressed into a a roof gable to attract prosperity, fertility and loaf of bread before baking. harmony. It could also be carried in a wallet 4. Morning Star or Auseklītis. Symbolic of the for prosperity. 4. 5. 6. victory of light over darkness, it sheds light, 8. The serpent or Zalktis. The symbol of protects against evil, gives hope and support wisdom, the sign of sages and wise men and in times of change. Before going to battle women. It often appeared in female attire and warriors covered their horses with a blanket in the bathhouse. of stars. 9. Ūsiņš. The protector of horses, the bearer 5. Thunder Cross. Symbol of light, fire and of male energy, it ensures protection during life, attracts happiness and strength, ensures journeys. Also known as a sign of life, it was 7. 8. 9. a good relationship with the forces of fire. drawn on the cradle and on the porch. © Jānis Romanovskis LATVIA CELEBRATES 100 YEARS 12 13 7 Ley lines Indeed, it is the stuff of fairy tales about Checking of ley lines is magical streams and criss-crossed force fields a job for a specialist, deep below the surface, however, many Latvian architects still check the ley lines before signing but often country folk off on the plans of a house. 2 – 3 metres apart, do it themselves with intersecting at right angles, this network of a ring or a sewing mystical subterranean water energy lines was known to other Northern European peoples, needle. We believe – too. A well dug on a cross-point was thought better safe than sorry. to have healing properties, but an oak tree there would attract lighting. How can one tell their influence? An instant cure for insomnia by moving the bed off a ley line. A line of trees in a forest coincidentally growing in a straight line. The dog or cat choosing an unusual place as a favourite napping spot. © Reinis Hofmanis © Reinis 6 Ancestral spirits Paying respect to the dead is a tradition of many ancient civilisations, and we are no exception. Remembrance of departed souls (veļi) is still practised in modern times and intertwined with Christian rituals. It is believed that veļi return to their living kin in autumn, to be fed and remembered with a kind word, in exchange, providing protection and support for earthly endeavours. Today, we celebrate the memory of our loved ones during cemetery festivals, drawing the extended family together from all over the country. The grave sites are adorned with flowers and candles, a priest delivers a sermon, and local musicians perform. Most cemetery plots resemble a small garden, with hedges and flowerbeds including a small seat.