08 ESCAPE SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 15 2013 ESCAPE.COM.AU RURALIDYLL FRANCE FRANCE in summer is notable for many things — a lemming- like rush to the coast, a manic GO2 rolling caravan better known as MAZAMET, the Tour de France and the FRANCE annual challenge, for locals and visitors alike, to find a quiet GETTING THERE oasis away from the madness. Mazamet is a market town in For most Parisians, the the department of Tarn, in choice of escape is generally the southwestern France. Cote d’Azur or, for those who It is within two hours of five can afford it, sandy beaches on international airports. The the other side of the planet. nearest is Carcassonne, only Increasingly, there has been a 45 minutes away. There is growing trend toward smaller also access from Paris Orly to inland centres and Mazamet — Mazamet’s small airport. with its powerful Australian There is train access from echoes — is fast losing its Toulouse. Some Australian status as one of France’sbest- guests fly to Barcelona and kept secrets. make their way to Mazamet. A market town, Mazamet sits at the foot of Montagne Noire STAYING THERE (Black Mountain) between La Villa de Mazamet is a Toulouse and Carcassonne, luxury B & B, featuring five at the southwestern end of sumptuously appointed the Massif Central — bedrooms, priced from €95 and within easy reach of ($140) a night for two, the Mediterranean. including breakfast. La Villa There are two UNESCO serves a four-course table World Heritage sites — d’hôte dinner six nights a Carcassone to the south and A typical day at La Villa starts week priced at €32.50. Albi to the north — within 45 with guests wandering La Villa also has a pool, minutes’ drive. downstairs from the five luxury Le Petit Spa and a resident Five Michelin Star Unspoilt slice of bedrooms to share breakfast in masseuse four days a week. restaurants sit within an the dining room or out on the See villademazamet.com or hour, including Les Bistrot terrace. The day ends with a email [email protected] Saveurs in Castres and Le Parc superb four-course dinner, in Carcassone. prepared by Friend and served DOING THERE And Provence and Bordeaux forgotten world by wine connoisseur Barber. Check out medieval villages, are within three hours. Friend sources his produce UNESCO World Heritage sites Even closer are quaint locally to serve at the in Albi and Carcassone, medieval villages, mountain Mazamet was built on the wealth of colonial Australia, and restaurant, complemented by markets, music, food, wine, lakes, wineries and a smattering more than 20 wines selected by mountain lakes, museums, of small towns bristling with now Australians are increasingly discovering this once Barber from local vineyards. art galleries, cycling and golf. character and history, fresh For those feeling the pinch at produce and museums. little-known French oasis, writes LeoSchlink the end of a long day, a visit to More: See tourisme- For cyclists, Mazamet is a Le Petit Spa for a sauna, spa and mazamet.com paradise, offering terrain from massage is recommended. extreme Le Tour climbs to the able to produce meals of Friend and Barber have left training circuit of the town’s exquisite quality, says word of nothing to chance, devising languages, Australian accents most illustrious sporting mouth recommendation, eight self-drive tours, coupled can be heard. son, world champion principally through Trip with maps, suggested places to Friend is pleased to report Laurent Jalabert. Advisor, has seen La Villa visit and the locations of town the antipodean resurgence in There is also the 65km La receive the Travellers’ Choice markets in nearby districts. Mazamet is growing. VoieVerte (the green way) award for the past three years. The pair has also created a “I think most of our visitors, cycling track, which gently “The Australian market has loyalty card to use in local particularly the Australians, winds through stunning been great for us because restaurants and businesses. have heard of Bordeaux and villages and towns to Australian tourists have a Apart from its architecture, other places, but they find Bedarieux and its 17th- positive outlook and want to get Mazamet’ssignature is its there’sa lot more to places like century architecture. out and explore and try market culture. Mazamet than honeypot Australia’slinks to Mazamet something new,” Friend says. There are three weekly destinations,” he says. hark back to the 1850s when the “We’ve had a lot of Australian markets in Mazamet alone and “It’sa real working town with nation’sfoundation bounties — visitors here. a foie gras market is held on people who make their living off wool and hides — were sent to “For Mark and I, La Villa is Sundays in winter. the land. Here, you are living a Europe for processing. our passion. We were fortunate During the summer, the bit of France that’suntouched Mazamet’simpressive among the 15 wealthiest towns Mazamet, a luxury bed and enough to travel the world and producers market is a magnet and unspoilt.” architecture stands as lasting in Europe. Today, half a century breakfast establishment run by experience good food and good for locals and visitors alike. For the artistically inclined, testimony to the fabulous since wool importation largely Englishmen Peter Friend and wine and we’ve tried to bring The idea is to stroll through there are Sunday night concerts wealth generated from ended, there remains an elite of Mark Barber. the best of what we’ve the town square and buy in the bandstand. woollen and leather products quality leather and woollen Built in 1934, La Villa was experienced here. whatever appeals from vendors And with a nod to Mazamet’s — as do street signs near the clothing companies in completely renovated between “We appreciate there’sa lot of offering lamb, fish, foie gras, ancient heritage, there are railway station. Mazamet. Hermes and Channel 2005-09 and has rapidly competition and for us it’sabout chestnut and girolle guided walks by flaming torch There is Rue de Australie, source much of their stock here. become temporary home to not resting on our laurels mushrooms, confit of duck, featuring archery and battle re- Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne While Mazamet is not a many visiting Australians. “We think we provide a great cheese, ice cream, bread, enactments in the medieval and Sydney, recognition stereotypically French In its latest incarnation, La base to stay and there’sso vegetables and wine. village of Hautpoul. of a distant land’sconnection confection, it is nonetheless Villa has been three times rated much here, from the lakes to The offerings are “There is something for to what remains a charming with several the No. 1 B&B in France ahead the mountains, medieval inexpensive, the atmosphere is everybody here,” Friend says. bustling community. stunning features. of almost 7000 competitors. villages, wineries, markets relaxing and, among the “Australians seem to have For a time, Mazamet was One is the La Villa de Friend, a self-taught chef and golf courses.” cacophony of European caught on to that.” STEP BACK: The Albi cathedral rises behind Pont Vieux, the oldest working bridge in France, a short drive from Mazamet (top); the entrance to La Villa de Mazamet; and (from left) La Villa’s restaurant and swimming pool; the fields surrounding the nearby village of Lautrec; and La Villa’s welcome escape at the end of a busy day. 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