BMC Nutrition for Climbers Webinar Speaker - Lucinda Whittaker Nutritional Therapist (member of British Association of Nutrition Therapists and CNHC) Qualified Teacher and Lecturer BSc (Hons) Physiology and Sports Science, PGCE and QTS Climbing Development Coach & SPA - On pilot for Performance Coach GB Junior Bouldering Team Head Coach Climber E8, F8b, Font 7c+& Big Walls British Lead Champion 2002 and British Boulder Champion 2002/2003 Competed Internationally for GB Team in both lead and boulder 1999-2005 Todays Webinar • The Logic to Nutrition - ‘Seeing the Wood for the Trees’ • Nutrition and the GB Junior Boulderers • Talent Pathway Profiling Tool for Coaches Why eat good food? • Incredible strength and fitness • Healthy Joints • Strong bones and teeth • Clear skin • Optimal brain function • Balanced moods • Appetite Regulation How important is nutrition to hard training? • Frequency of training can increase • Intensity of training • Support the immune system • Reduce 'Burnout' Traditional Approach Department of Health (1991) 41: Dietary Reference Values for Food, Energy and Nutrients for the United Kingdom. London: TSO Recommended Micronutrient intakes • The values are often the same, or very similar for adolescent and adults • How do we begin...food diary analysis? • Problem is 1 week will take one month to analyse fully. • Weighing, measuring and recording? Nutrient Requirements of the Young Athlete Requirements are constantly changing over the adolescent Years Balyi et al (2005) Windows of accelerated Adaptation to training. Canadian Sport for LIfe: Long term athlete development resource paper. Vancover BC: Canadian Sport Centre Not all foods are created equal • Might be meeting our calorie requirement - but... • Energy systems are macro (carbohydrate, fat and protein) and micro nutrient driven (vitamins and minerals) • the quality of the food/level of processing will efect the nutrients ‘bioavailability’ • How well is the digestive system is functioning? • Specific requirements of that individuals physiology Nutrition is highly complex and has to be planned on an individual basis. There is no one size fits all - but there are some basics we can Energy Systems http://www.slowtwitch.com/Training/General_Physiology/An_Athlete_s_Guide_to_Advanced_Nutrition_Testing_2283.html Carbohydrate Sources V Colourful Vegetables Protein Sources V Why is protein so important? • Protein builds every hair cell, skin cell, muscle cell, DNA is made of it! etc. etc. • Essential to Energy production (along with carbohydrate and fats) liver function. • Animal and non animal sources • e.g. Red meat, white meat, fish, legumes, beans, nuts and seeds. • Our liver is our body’s main processing plant. It receives everything in our blood stream and breaks it down, makes useful substances and packages up toxins so they can be safely removed from our body. • It helps our body process lactic acid. Liver Detoxification Pathways Morledge (2014) Into to Integrative Medicine. http://www.clevelandclinicmeded.com/medicalpubs/diseasemanagement/preventive-medicine/integrative-medicine/images/integrativefig_large3.jpg Fat Sources V Healthy fats • Every cell in our body (e.g. lung cell, blood cell, muscle cell etc.) has a membrane around the outside - ‘a phospholipid by-layer’ • ‘Lipid’ means ‘fat’ • Healthy fat sources - must have a balance (omega 3 & 6 especially). • Coconut oil in cooking, olive oil on salads, avocados, oily fish. The Basics • Decrease the amount of refined and processed carbohydrates • ‘5-a-day’ or should it be more? Eat a Rainbow of vegetables and fruit. • Aim for a 3 vegetables and 2 fruit - at least. Ideally it would be great if reaching 5 portions of vegetables. • Boost micro nutrients by eating colourful vegetables • Protein with every meal and snack • Lean meats and oily fish (SMASH) and plant sources (nuts and seeds, dairy products, beans and pulses, buckwheat, quinoa) • Hydration of at least 1.5l of water • If these fundamentals can be incorporated into grass roots level - as the athlete moves higher up the talent pathway nutrition can become tailored more towards the athlete. • Aim to create a positive culture around healthy eating and making smart food choices. Ideas • Breakfast - • porridge with fruit, nuts and seeds, • morning smoothie 2/3 veg 1/3 fruit with ground nuts and seeds, • omelette, eggs after cereal, • add chopped nuts and yoghurt to granola, • buckwheat flour pancakes. • Lunch - • Swap bread for brown, increase the amount of filling/add a side salad or easy veg for kids - carrots/ cherry tomatoes. • Think Grain (e.g. brown rice/quinoa) colourful salad/vegetables and protein (e.g. sliced lean meat, cheese, chickpeas, mixed bean, nuts and seeds). Followed by fruit. • Dinner - • Colourful vegetables, starchy vegetables and grain and a protein source. Add a colourful side salad to ‘one pot style meals’. • Snacks - hummus and vegetable sticks, hard boiled eggs, oatcakes with cottage cheese, rice cakes with avocado and hummus, smoothie. • Swap tea/cofee for herbal teas. e.g. green tea, mint tea, plain water. Hydration in Young Athletes • In adult a 2% dehydration has be shown to decrease endurance and work capacity • In a child a 1% decrease in body weight from exercise will decrease endurance capacity. • This also changes in adolescence. • Ballauf et al (1988) proposed that from 6-11 yrs. need 1.6l per day and after need the same as adults. Ballauff A et al (1988) Do Children have an adequate fluid intake? Water balance studies carried out at home. AnnNutrMetab. 32:332-339 Hydration • Water intake 1.5 litres per day. • If training 250ml extra for every 30mins • Tea and cofee don’t count! Sleep • A crucial part of our growth and recovery. Female Athletes • Should we be more aware of the part female hormones play in training and high performance sport? How can we support a female hormones through nutrition? • Keep blood sugar balanced by eating protein with every meal - fish, poultry, eggs, nuts and seeds. • Reduce/avoid sugar and refined carbohydrates (white bread, pasta, white rice and most commercial breakfast cereals). • Reduce tea, cofee and sugary drinks. • Always have breakfast. • Increase the amount of soluble fibre in the diet - fruit, vegetables, beans, lentils, flax seeds and oats. • Avoid artificial sweeteners such as aspartame and saccharin. • Eat plenty of essential fatty acids (‘good fats’) - nuts, seeds and oily fish (salmon, mackerel, anchovies, sardines, herrings). • Increase foods rich in phytoestrogens - nuts, seeds and flaxseeds. • Reduce saturated fats from animal based products. • Eat cruciferous vegetables daily - broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage,brussels sprouts, kale. • Reduce excess salt as it can lead to water retention. • Minimise exposure to ‘xenooestrogens’. These are chemicals in our daily life which can disrupt our normal hormone balance. Limit eating foods from soft plastic (use Tupperware thats ‘BPA free’), avoid microwaveing foods in soft plastic, use glass if possible and try to use skincare that is paraben free. • Drink filtered water where possible and try not to re-use plastic bottles, use water bottles that are marked ‘BPA free’ • Eat organic where possible, especially meats and dairy as these can contain synthetic hormones which can disrupt our normal hormone balance. Can we really influence our young athletes nutrition? • ‘Before’ - Langenfeld, Austria, 2014, European Bouldering Cup Competition ‘After’ at European Bouldering Championships, 2014, Arco, Italy. How? Nutrition and Lifestyle Profile in Action Text 4 The Goals of the Profile Tool • Encourage a healthy attitude towards food and encourage eating. • Allow our athletes to make better choices and educate them into what is a better choice. • Provide the body with a solid nutritional base to support training and normal development. • The better the choices they make the better the profile result. 28 6 Collecting the Dietary Information • 2 main ways - • Athlete writes a 24 hour recall diary and writes down everything they have eaten and drunk that day. • Athlete takes a photo (on phone or other device) of everything they eat and drink so you can analyse. It may be useful here to ask them to provide a scale in the photograph (such as a piece of cutlery) • Photographs would be the preferred method. 29 10 Portions • From the start we consider number of portions of food group eaten. • We will look at the athletes food diary (in pictures preferably) and decide how many portions of the food groups on the profile are eaten in one day. • A portion of protein is equivalent of a palm in size and thickness. • A portion of carbohydrate/vegetables is a ‘handful’ • A portion of nuts and seeds is a small handful. • A portion of grain/legumes is a handful. • Fruit is a handful • A portion of oils is normally about teaspoon • Beverages (including dairy) is about 250ml 30 Nutrition & Lifestyle Profiling Regional National GB Juniors GB Seniors male NLP1 NLP1 NLP2 7-11yrs female NLP1 NLP1 NLP2 male NLP1 NLP2 NLP2 11-14yrs female NLP1 NLP2 NLP2 male NLP1 NLP2 NLP3 NLP3 15-18yrs female NLP1 NLP2 NLP3 NLP3 male NLP3 NLP3 18+ yrs female NLP3 NLP3 NUTRITION & LIFESTYLE PROFILE 1 IN BOXES BELOW INSERT PICTURES OF EACH OF 3 MAIN MEALS FROM A NORMAL DAY IN BOXES BELOW RECORD OR INSERT PICTURES OF SNACKS/DRINKS FROM A NORMAL DAY Sleep e.g. time went to sleep to time awake Number of hours = Off Wall Activities e.g. other sports or activities Number of hours per week = NUTRITION & LIFESTYLE PROFILE 1 ANALYSIS pt1 From the photographs count how many portions have been eaten for each of the food groups below. Protein for growth and recovery ‘5+’ a day for vitamins and minerals e.g. meats, beans and pulses, nuts and seeds, cheese e.g. Colourful vegetables & fruit. Number of portions = Number of portions = unacceptable super unacceptable super weakness strength weakness weakness strength weakness strength strength 7-11yrs 0 1 2 2 7-11yrs 0 3 5 6+ 11-14yrs 1 2 3 3 11-14yrs 0 3 5 6+ 15-18yrs 1 2 3 3 15-18yrs 0 3 5 6+ Carbohydrates for Energy Dairy and Alternatives e.g.