©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. 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FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter 9 781741 793215 papua-new-guinea-solomon-islands-9-cover.indd 2 1/06/2012 9:37:21 AM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips The Sepik p116 Morobe & Madang Island Provinces Provinces The Highlands p75 p95 p137 #_ Solomon Islands Port p202 Moresby Central, Oro p40 & Milne Bay Provinces p55 PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 183 GUIDE PNG HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP Directory A–Z ................. 184 Transport ........................ 195 /DQJXDJH Language ........................ 232 $IWHUWKHQDWLRQDOSLGJLQVRI3DSXD1HZ 7RN3LVLQLVXVHGLQDOODUHDVRIGDLO\ *XLQHDDQGWKH6RORPRQ,VODQGV(QJOLVKLV LQFOXGLQJWKHDGPLQLVWUDWLRQHGXFDWLRQ WKHPRVWXQLYHUVDOO\XQGHUVWRRGODQJXDJH FKXUFKHVDQGWKHPHGLD,WKDVEHHQDZ EXWZKLOHLW·VTXLWHFRPPRQLQWKHFLWLHVDQG WHQODQJXDJHVLQFHWKHVDQGDOWKR ODUJHWRZQVLQUXUDODUHDV\RX·OOQHHGVRPH DQR՗FLDOZULWLQJV\VWHPH[LVWVQRQVWD EDVLFSLGJLQLQRUGHUWRFRPPXQLFDWH VSHOOLQJVVWLOODERXQG Index ................................ 247 0RVW7RN3LVLQZRUGVDUHRI(QJOLVK EXWPDQ\ZRUGVUHIHUULQJWRORFDOSKHQ 72.3,6,1 3$38$1(: HQDRULJLQDWHLQORFDOODQJXDJHV6HFR *8,1($ ODQJXDJH7RN3LVLQVSHDNHUVDUHRIWH 0RUHWKDQODQJXDJHVDUHVSRNHQLQ HQFHGLQWKHLUSURQXQFLDWLRQDQGJUD Map Legend .................... 254 3DSXD1HZ*XLQHD²DZKRSSLQJRI WKHFRQYHQWLRQVRIWKHLUPRWKHUWRQ HZRUOG·VLQGLJHQRXVODQJXDJHV/LQJXLVWV GHWKHVHODQJXDJHVLQWRPDMRUJURXSV URQHVLDQODQJXDJHVDUHVSRNHQE\D 3URQXQFLDWLRQ WKHSRSXODWLRQDQGGRPLQDWHWKH DQGIDUHYLUWXDO QGWKHFRDVWDODUHDV(QJDLVVSRNHQ DEOHLQERWKVSHOOLQJDQG VSHDNHUVLQWKH+LJKODQGV WMDQG] HSUHGRPLQDQWVSRNHQQDWLYH UHSUHVHQWVWKH(QJ GLSKWKRQJVDU VK1HZ*XLQHDDQG ZKHQXQ DJH RI THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Regis St Louis Jean-Bernard Carillet, Dean Starnes Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. Papua New Guinea On the Road PORT MORESBY . 40 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary . 91 Around Wewak . 123 AROUND PORT Ohu . 91 SANDAUN PROVINCE . .124 MORESBY . 53 Jais Aben Area . 91 Vanimo . 124 Sogeri Road . 53 Alexishafen . 91 THE SEPIK & ITS Malolo . 92 TRIBUTARIES . .127 CENTRAL, ORO & Ulingan Bay . 92 Upper Sepik . 131 MILNE BAY Karkar Island . .93 Middle Sepik . 132 PROVINCES . 55 Bogia, Hansa Bay & Lower Sepik