Index to Academy Oral Histories Adele Balkan Adele Balkan (Costume designer) Call number: OH128 Academy Awards, 149-150, 173-174, 202-203 Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, 29, 150, 193 Adrian, 42, 52, 71, 92, 108, 120 THE AGE OF INNOCENCE (1993), 113 THE ALDRICH FAMILY (radio), 62 Anderson, Lillian, 19 Andrews, Julie, 195-198 ANDROCLES AND THE LION (film), 126-127 Angelus, Muriel, 63-65 Apollo Theater (New York), 7-8 Arizona (location shooting), 183-188 Arnaz, Desi, 68 Arthur, Jean, 74, 83 Austen, Jane (film adaptations), 111-112 Bacall, Lauren, 129-130 Balin, Ina, 188 Balkan, Adele -- early life and family, 5-15 Balkan, Adele -- education, 6-15 Balkan, Adele -- gets first job at Paramount, 15-17 Balkan, Adele -- goes to work for Irene at Bullock's Wilshire, 68-69 Balkan, Adele -- goes to work at RKO, 84 Balkan, Adele -- works outside the film industry, 115-117 Balkan, Adele -- goes to work at Twentieth Century-Fox, 116 Balkan, Adele -- goes to work at Universal Pictures, 179 Balkan, Adele -- goes back to work for Irene, 179-180 Balkan, Adele -- retires from Twentieth Century-Fox, 200-201 Balkan, Adele -- compares work conditions at different studios, 29, 49, 84-86, 90-91, 119-121 Balkan, Adele -- on American attitudes while location shooting in Egypt, 139-140 Balkan, Adele -- compares fashion design and designing for studios, 78 Balkan, Adele -- on contemporary costume design, 201-205 Balkan, Edward (brother), 104 Ball, Lucille, 68 Banton, Travis, 15-18, 20-22, 25-28, 30-33, 42-46, 50, 52-53, 63, 65, 85, 93-94, 108, 115, 120, 203 Bara, Theda, 8 THE BARKLEYS OF BROADWAY, 79 Barrett, Judith, 62 Barrymore, Ethel, 87, 98-99 Baylis, Rita, 84 BEAU GESTE (1939), 40-41, 55-56, 64 Beaux-arts Institute, 14 Bergman, Ingrid, 54, 87, 100 Berkeley High School, 6, 9-11 Berman's (costume company), 40 Best, Marjorie, 63, 172, 174, 183, 185 Bill, Kathy, 69, 74, 80-81, 84 blacklisting, 103 THE BLUE ANGEL (1931), 16, 164-165 THE BLUE ANGEL (1959), 81, 163-166, 177 BLUE DENIM, 161-162 BONNIE AND CLYDE, 201 Boston Music Conservatory, 11 THE BOY WITH GREEN HAIR, 102 Braggiotti, Berthe, 11 Braggiotti, Francesca, 11 Britt, Mai, 81, 153, 163-166 Brooks, Donald, 131, 192-193, 196 Brynner, Yul, 135-136, 145, 200 Bullock's Wilshire (department store), 69-84, 165-166, 180 CAESAR AND CLEOPATRA, 177 CALL ME MADAM, 131 Carerre, Christine, 156-158 Carroll, Diahann, 90 Castle, Irene and Vernon, 8 Chaplin, Charles, 8 Chouinard Art Institute (Los Angeles), 174 Chrysler Building, 14 CinemaScope (widescreen system), 97, 121-123, 128-129 CLEOPATRA (1934), 15-16, 20-21, 40, 51-52 CLEOPATRA (1963), 30, 164, 176-177 clothing manufacturers, 16, 115-117 Colbert, Claudette, 16, 20-21, 32-33 Collins, Joan, 148, 155-156 Cooper, Gary, 41, 55-56, 74 Cooper, Merian C., 103-104 Cooper Union (school, New York), 12-15 Cooper, Veronica ("Rocky") Balfe, 74 costume design, 17-38, 42-68, 85-87, 91-93, 95-114, 120-136, 149, 154, 160-161, 164-165, 168-171, 174-175, 184, 191 costume design -- budgets, 36-37, 91, 167-168 costume design -- division of labor, 152-153 costume design -- for B pictures, 21, 35-36, 38, 46, 50, 51, 53-54 costume design -- for television, 174-175 costume design -- jewelry, 30, 196-197 costume design -- men's costumes, 29-30, 55-56, 62-63, 100, 189-190 costume design -- period costumes, 57-60, 62, 98, 169-172, 177 costume design -- Production Code and, 41 costume design -- research, 47-48, 57, 124, 128 costume design -- screen credit, 17, 29, 46, 49-50, 62, 64-65, 68, 85-86, 124, 131, 153, 157-158, 162, 173-174, 188-189 costume design -- sketching, 14-18, 28, 33-36, 44-47, 51-52, 64-67, 93-97, 124-125, 133, 142, 169, 176-177, 189 costume design -- sound and, 98 costume design -- use of fashion designers in, 191 costume design -- wardrobe department -- attitudes about wardrobe work versus costume design, 199 costume design -- wardrobe department -- racial and ethnic background of workers, 88-90 costume design -- wardrobe department -- unemployment and, 117-119 costume design -- wardrobe department -- wardrobe stills, 66-67 costume design -- wardrobe department -- wardrobe supervisor, 192-99 costume design -- working with extras, 138-144, 171-172, 192 costume design -- working with stars, 32-34, 110-111, 113, 129-130, 157, 159-160, 178 costume design -- World War II and, 86 Costume Designers Guild, 150-152, 202 Cowl, Jane, 33 Cramer, Claire, 85, 120-121 Crawford, Joan, 42, 71 Crenna, Richard, 29, 190 Cummings, Jack, 163 Daché, Lilly, 19 Davis, Bette, 112 Day, Chico, 183 Day, Doris, 74, 77, 82, 179-181 Day-Lewis, Daniel, 112 Dazian's (fabric sellers), 18 De Carlo, Yvonne, 135-136 Dee, Sandra, 42 Del Rio, Dolores, 159-160 DEMETRIUS AND THE GLADIATORS, 30, 41, 123-126 De Mille, Cecil B., 16, 29, 132-135, 140, 145-146, 148 Denishawn (dance school, New York), 10-11 Derek, John, 136 Deslys, Gaby, 8 THE DEVIL IS A WOMAN, 28 Dietrich, Marlene, 21, 26-29, 32, 70, 72-73, 75, 80, 83, 164-165 Dior, Christian, 71, 107-108 Dmytryk, Edward, 103, 163 Dodson, Mary Kay, 84 Doss, Leonard, 149 Drake, Dorothy, 195 Drew, Ellen, 57-58 Dunne, Irene, 85, 115 Durkus, Doris, 133 Eden, Barbara, 160 Eden, Elana, 169-170 Eggar, Samantha, 200-201 Egypt (location shooting), 132-147 THE EGYPTIAN, 30, 123-124, 132, 148 Eltinge, Julian, 8 Empire State Building, 14 Fabrizio's (shoemakers), 38 THE FARMER'S DAUGHTER, 54, 98 Farnum, Dustin, 8 fashion design, 16, 42-43, 69-84, 92, 115-116, 180 FIGHTING FATHER DUNNE, 101 FLAMING STAR, 159-160 THE FLY (1958), 153 Foster, Preston, 57 Foy, Eddie, 8 Friberg, Arnold, 132 FRIENDLY PERSUASION, 145 FROM HELL TO TEXAS, 158-159 FUNNY GIRL, 58 furriers, 19-20, 77 George White's Scandals (theatrical revue), 11 GERONIMO, 46, 57, 64 Gibbons, Cedric, 74 Gibbons, Elliot, 74 Gibson, Charles Dana, 149 THE GIRL CAN'T HELP IT, 149 THE GIRL IN THE RED VELVET SWING, 148, 156 Girls' Latin School (Boston), 6, 9-11 Givenchy, Hubert de, 172-173 Godey's Lady's Book (magazine), 114 GONE WITH THE WIND, 40, 109 Grable, Betty, 129-130 Granville, Bonita, 49, 61-62 THE GRAPES OF WRATH (film), 202 Grattan School (San Francisco), 8 THE GREAT MCGINTY, 46, 64-65 THE GREATEST STORY EVER TOLD, 174, 182-188 Greer, Howard, 17, 44, 80 Hale, Barbara, 87, 102 Hargate, Bill, 192-193 Harper's Bazaar (magazine), 84 Harrison, Rex, 40 Haslam, Courtney, 168, 176, 192, 200, 201 Hathaway, Henry, 158 HAWAII, 145 Hayward, Susan, 40-41, 55, 125 Head, Edith, 16-18, 21-22, 27-29, 31, 33, 41-46, 49-50, 52-55, 62-66, 68, 73, 87-88, 92-94, 98, 100, 109, 132-133, 150, 158, 173, 188-190, 203 HELLO, DOLLY!, 58 Hepburn, Audrey, 172-174 Heston, Charlton, 136 Hitchcock, Alfred, 54, 87 Holden, William, 49, 61 HOW TO MARRY A MILLIONAIRE, 129-130 Hughes, Howard, 91, 114-115 Hunt, Marsha, 161 Hyde-White, Wilfrid, 29, 190 I. Magnin (department store), 76 I REMEMBER MAMA, 115 IN THE NAME OF THE FATHER, 112 Irene, 34, 43, 69-84, 90, 93-94, 109, 115, 120, 160, 179-183, 203 Jackson, Glenda, 178-179 Jeakins, Dorothy, 132-136, 142, 145-147, 154, 189, 191-192, 197 Jeffreys, Anne, 85, 100-101 Jensen, John, 132 Jenssen, Elois, 141 Jester, Ralph, 132 JOHN GOLDFARB, PLEASE COME HOME, 29, 62, 164, 188-190, 200 Jones, Dick, 77 Jones, Jennifer, 149, 172 Kalmus, Natalie, 97 Karinska, Madame Barbara, 43 Kellerman, Annette, 9 Kelly, Gene, 59 The Keystone Kops, 8 Kidd, Michael, 194 THE KING AND I, 200-201 KING KONG (1933), 103-104 KING OF KINGS (1961), 148 Kolb and Dill (comedy team), 8 labor unions, 48, 51, 67, 86-88, 93, 96-98, 114, 121-122, 140, 150-152, 193 Lamour, Dorothy, 26 THE LAST OF THE MOHICANS (1992), 112 Lawrence, Gertrude, 193 Le Baron, William, 57 Leisen, Mitchell, 26, 52 LeMaire, Charles, 22, 30, 37-38, 44, 50, 78, 94, 116-117, 119-124, 126-133, 142, 148-150, 153-154, 157-158, 162, 167, 172, 201 Letty Lynton dress, 42, 71, 92 THE LIGHT THAT FAILED, 46, 55, 63-64 Lincoln, Elmo, 8 LITTLE MISS MARKER, 155 LITTLE WOMEN (1949), 109 Logan, Joshua, 153-154 Lombard, Carole, 32, 69, 73, 83 "Lookie, Lookie, Lookie, Here Comes Cookie" (song), 23-24 Losey, Joseph, 102-103 Louis, Jean, 42-44, 73, 82 LOVE IS A MANY-SPLENDORED THING, 149-150 Lupino, Ida, 63 Lynley, Carol, 161-162 McCarey, Leo, 156 McCullough, David, 187 Malone's Cleaners, 25 Mansfield, Jayne, 149 MARDI GRAS, 156 MARGIE (television), 174-175 Margo, 158 Markert, Russell, 11 Martha Washington Hotel (New York), 12 Menjou, Adolphe, 68 Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer (MGM), 78-79, 120 MIGHTY JOE YOUNG (1949), 103-105 Milland, Ray, 55 Mills, Juliet, 200 THE MODEL AND THE MARRIAGE BROKER, 131 Monroe, Marilyn, 121, 129-130, 157, 191 Moore, Demi, 113 Moore, Terry, 103-105 Moreno, Rita, 148 Motion Picture Costumers (Local 705), 151-152 MY BEAUTIFUL LAUNDRETTE, 112 MY LEFT FOOT, 112 MYRA BRECKINRIDGE, 60 NANNY AND THE PROFESSOR (television), 199-200 Negulesco, Jean, 35 The New Look, 107-108, 129 Newman, Bernard, 109 Nickel, Albert, 147 NIGHT SONG, 99 North, Sheree, 156-157 NOTORIOUS, 54, 87, 100 Novarese, Nino, 94-95, 169-172, 183-185 Oberon, Merle, 87, 99 Oblath's (restaurant), 31 O'Hara, Maureen, 91, 115 "Oh, How I Hate to Get Up in the Morning" (song), 7 "Ol' Man Mose" (song), 42 Orpheum Theater (San Francisco), 8 Orry-Kelly, 99 Palmer, Adele, 131, 200 Paramount Pictures, 15-69, 84-85, 90-91, 115, 118, 120-121, 132 Paramount Pictures -- wardrobe department, 15-68, 84-85, 118, 120-121 Paramount Pictures -- wardrobe department -- aging costumes, 26 Paramount Pictures -- wardrobe department -- beaders, 28-29 Paramount Pictures -- wardrobe department -- beltmakers, 38 Paramount Pictures -- wardrobe department -- cleaners, 25-26 Paramount Pictures -- wardrobe department -- cutters,