Mapping Your Profession Building Your Brand Becky, Lauren, Anna, Grace and Lulu Ann Summers PESTEL Political 'Most households in the UK will have pornography blocked by their internet provider unless they choose to receive it, David Cameron has announced.' http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-23401076 Economical The chart indicates the economy for the raw material of PTA which is used to make polyester. The tramlines indicate the average levels PTA should be at. Due to oil prices reaching record highs and being a non-renewable resource, the fibre polyester is in high demand and therefore higher price. This could affect the cost of Ann Summers garments as the majority of them feature the fibre polyester. Social: New wave of feminism Technological Apple pay could change how customers pay in Ann Summers stores and therefore changing data that Ann Summers receive about their customers . With the invention of 3d printing this could affect the way Ann summers could make their textiles and products. ENVIRONMENTAL • The current economic climate has meant that companies and manufactures are compelled to use cheaper fabrics in their products, which not only has a knock on affect with performance of said product, but the environment. • Modern practices in manufacture such as dyeing and fibres used in weaving adds to the carbon foot print and a negative affect on water/ vegetation supply of local communities. Most fabrics used in the Lingerie trade are usually cotton blends, satins/ silks and polyester based fabrics. Each of these have effected the environment with in actual crop growth or manufacture of the final product… • Cotton farms tend to use land which has been seized by governments or bought up by large international companies. many farms have been grown on deforestation land. • chemicals such as pesticides ruin the land and water supply so ‘organic’ crops are grown instead, however this doesn't stop the carbon foot print of yielding the crop or transportation to manufacture. The industry is changing its ways! • More and more campaigns are developing to go against environmentally damaging processes with in the fashion industry. • ‘Eco’ brands are developing over night, such as ‘People Tree’ and ‘Organic’. • Powerful associations such as ‘PETA’ and ‘Greenpeace’ are hitting hard on ‘non-eco’ practices from crop to shop. LEGAL Further Sex trade legislations - If more new laws come into place in the UK on the Sex trade this could affect Ann Summer as it may lose customers who fear they may be prosecuted if caught buying for their profession in public. Sex workers and Activist Protesting Against Forced Evictions In London’s Red Light District Sector Level Brand Haute Couture RTW High Street Comparison Example: Tres Bonjour Example: L’argent Provocateur Example: Ann Summers Description Underwired latex bra in Underwired bra with high apex Lace black underwired bra black with five gold rings lace overlay and lace criss cross with sheer cups with soft trim boning Picture Price €349.00 £125.00 £20.00 Fabrics Latex French leavers lace and satin Lace Care Requirements Hand wash only Hand wash only Machine washable Features Fastens at the back with Cut away sections on the bra. Lace trimming detail. classic bra hooks. Fastens at back with classic bra Fastens at the back with Adjustable chain closure hooks. classic bra hooks. with Tres Bonjour pendant in Satin bow sits on the bridge Bow sits on the bridge gold in the back. between the cups. between the cups. Secondary Quantitative and Qualitative Brand Research Size of Market Women who have purchased any underwear either in store or online in April 2013 • Approximately 23.9 million women, equivalent to just over nine in ten females in the UK, NOTE Green line = average bought underwear in the last 12 months. • Young women are also more experimental with their bras and purchases of enhancing bras and strapless/multiways bras are skewed towards this age group. This age group are likely to be looking for bras to go with their different outfits and more unusual cuts of clothing in line with fashion trends. • Only one in eight women bought shapewear for themselves and purchasing still seems to be limited to older women, with over-55s most likely to have bought it. Types of underwear women have bought for • Mintel’s research for this report found that themselves or received as women have spent an average of £43 a gift, April 2013 on underwear in the last 12 months, while men have spent £32. Key Players within the Lingerie Sector • Marks and Spencers, La Senza and Ann Summers are the top players in the lingerie sector. Marks and Spencers have a strong lead with 27.1% share in the lingerie retail market. In January 2012 La Senza went into administration and was then purchased by retail company Alshaya Group. • Ann Summers has 5.9% whilst La Senza has 4.2%. • Retailing company Sara Lee Intimates who own Wonderbra and Bellinda have a 2.5% share whilst Evenden, owners of Freya and Wacoal, have a 1.8%. • Stella Mccartney and Elle Mchpherson intimates are example of brands within the Bendon retail company who have a 0.5% share. Market Share Sales Future Trajectory For Lingerie- General Visual Trends for S/S15 Due the recovery of the economy, the sales in the next 5 years for Lingerie are set to rise by 4.4% according to IBISWorld as consumers are left with more money to spend on Valentine’s Day, bridal showers and honeymoons. Underprotection Elise Aucouturier Stella McCartney Straps– Straps that cross over one another and Ethereal one pieces- Intricately pierced fine jersey emphasise the more skeletal areas of the body. panels and fine lace in crochet like designs. Future Trajectory For Lingerie- Bridal Visual Trends For S/S15 Cosabella Fortnight Something blue - An assortment of Long line bras- loosely unstructured bras, structured on the bust and knickers, dressing gowns end at the top of the waist, and rompers in pastel and in lace and other sheer powder blue. fabrics. Eres Claire Pettibone Future Trajectory For Lingerie- Swimwear Visual Trends For S/S15 Marysia Kore Swim Karla Colletto Lisa Marie Fernandez High waist bottoms- for 2015 swimwear designers have a new Mesh- A combination of fine mesh creating floating take on high waist bottoms reminiscent of the 50’s by adding shapes or larger geometric laser cut mesh. edgy details such as cut out side, mesh and zips. Future Trajectory For Lingerie- Packaging Trends Packaging trends for the Lingerie sector will become increasingly more important as the season commences. This is due to the rise in consumers buying lingerie encouraging the market to grow, forcing company’s to be more focused on branding methods. Picture frame packaging- White boxes with cut out sections in varying shapes letting the pattern and colour of the product shine through. Hanky Panky- Salon International de la lingerie trade show Les Queues Des Sardines- Lingerie Collective Trade show Future Trajectory For Lingerie- Trading Trends Smart Phone measurement app Soon the awkward bra fittings, hours in changing rooms and wrongly fitted bras could be a thing of the past as the online lingerie retailer, Thirdlove, launch their own iPhone body scanning measurement app. The app works by user taking 2 two pictures of them self from specified angles, these pictures are then processed by Thirdlove’s algorithm technology, (recognition of the size of the body in relation to the iPhone) this information is then sent back to the user along with links to bras that would be the perfect fit. Demand for Unusual sizes In Reaction to more people seeking unique back and cup sizes online, lingerie retailers are now introducing more alternative sizes such as half sizes, rare back sizes in relation to cup size a, in store. ThirdLove App- LSN Article MARKET PERFORMANCE • The global lingerie industry is worth $30 billion. with bras representing 50%, briefs 33% and corsetry 10%. • Evolving fashion trends such as comfort or novelty are the key drivers of this industry. • Market growth is down to rising levels of disposable income, fabric innovation and new ‘varied’ styles. • Underwear being worn as outerwear is one of the main reasons for the recent major change in attitude towards the sector especially the traditional ones, this has driven the market to explode. • The lingerie market has been affected by the ageing population of developed countries and are in fact being slowed down, there for the growth potential is all down to developing countries and its larger, younger population with rising living standards and increase of impulsive shopping with style over necessity. • Hosiery market could exceed $20 billion by 2015. Changes in machinery and manufacture has increased productivity, such as electronic knitting machines replacing mechanical. • Nightwear/ Lingerie could exceed $70 billion by 2015. Nightmare and Lingerie fared the economic recession better than other market segments due to necessity. according to ‘global industry analysts’. • Plus sizes demand is increased in western markets, this is backed up Global Sale Index by consumption being higher in the EU and the US which have larger size demographics, with Asia Pacific just behind which is more due to population quantity rather than consumption. 19% 20% • However the US has been most efficient in promotional affect on the 6% lingerie sector. 2% 13% 40% according to ‘global industry analysts’; ‘The US lingerie market has been expanding over the past two decades, fuelled in part by the promotional campaigns of Victoria's Secret, bringing Europe underwear fashion into the limelight and boosting a trend toward brand South East and East Asia loyalty. Other retail outlets such as department stores are also getting in on North and Latin America the market.