ISSUE architecture 51 interiors design fashion THE VANGUARD ISSUE IAN GRIFFITHS GIORGIO GUIDOTTI PAULA SCHER JENNY E. SABIN ANDEE HESS THOMAS INGENLATH JEAN PAUL GAULTIER TOLU COKER TADAO ANDO RENZO PIANO + MORE 24 52 56 O XX N 5 1 : THE VANGUARD ISSUE 6. HELLO INTEL DESIGN DNA 10. MASTHEAD 19. FIRST LOOK 37. BODY OF WORK 12. CONTRIBUTORS Jean Paul Gaultier releases Avant-garde sophistication, nature-inspired wallpaper, classics that meet the moment, Bellevue Art Museum honors and a highly elegant form of architect Steven Holl, creative feminism make Max Mara agency Layer designs a speaker a singular force in fashion— with Bang & Olufsen, and more. decade after decade. 30. OBJECTS OF DESIRE 46. ON THE RISE Sit back, relax, and enjoy the best Nigerian-British designer of what’s new in seating. Tolu Coker explores identity, community, and lived experience through fashion, film, and rich visual narratives. 8 GRAY INTEL BODY TALK Conventional Western beauty standards bore Belgian costume designer Jennifer Defays, so she’s spent the past two decades creating ensembles that accentuate and morph the body in unexpected ways. On April 23, Defays will present her newest work at Brussels’s TicTac Art Centre in MUTE, an exhibition that highlights her use of costume to explore societal stigmas and oppressions. Featuring haunting cotton masks with FIRST LOOK protruding artificial cheekbones and her provocative Window Dress series—designed like targets, with circular openings at the pelvis, the works denote prostitution and the patriarchy’s narrow gaze on the female figure—MUTE is a layered multisen- sory experience that explores the stifling of self-expression, incorporating recorded shouts and cries as well as text by writer Natalia Dusfraise. “My definition of costume is a crafted work on the human body,” Defays tells GRAY. “It’s like a sculpture, and it opens a lot of possibilities.” —Claire Butwinick California-based architect Scott Mitchell’s landmark 18th-century farmhouse to the monumental HOUSE residences are characterized both by what they Malibu estate seen in Tom Ford’s 2016 film BEAUTIFUL renounce (excessive opulence) and what they embrace Nocturnal Animals. The book includes a foreword (purity of form and space). Informed by Japanese by architectural critic Paul Goldberger and minimalism and Shinto aesthetics, Mitchell’s works contributions from longtime friend Calvin Klein. are fusions of rich organic materials, sculptural “I am most happy with the way that the book concrete, and seamless connections to the natural conveys, through the voices of contributors and landscape. This May, Rizzoli debuts the book friends, the emotional impact of what I aspire to Scott Mitchell Houses, a charting of the architect’s create in my work,” Mitchell tells GRAY. —CB design trajectory from a modern interpretation of an LAETITIA BICA; COURTESY SCOTT MITCHELL STUDIO 24 GRAY.