Chinese Journal of Natural Chinese Journal of Natural Medicines 2018, 16(4): 02840292 Medicines doi: 10.3724/SP.J.1009.2018.00284 Cornus mas L. extract as a multifunctional material for manufacturing cosmetic emulsions Nizioł-Łukaszewska Z1, Wasilewski T2, Bujak T1, Gaweł-Bęben K1, Osika P1*, Czerwonka D2 1 The University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow, Department of Cosmetology, Tyczyn 36020, Poland; 2 The University of Technology and Humanities in Radom, Department of Chemistry, Radom 26600, Poland Available online 20 Apr., 2018 [ABSTRACT] Dogwood fruits are a valuable source of active ingredients, such as phenolic compounds, vitamin C, iridoids, flavon- oids and anthocyanins. Plant extracts and substances derived from latin Cornus mas L. exhibit not only strong antibacterial but also antioxidant and tonicity properties, effectively preventing the development of inflammation in living organisms. In the present study, we attempted to obtain the innovative, multi-functional plant extract from the fruit of dogwood (Cornus mas L.). During the extraction process a mixture of water, glycerol, and vegetable oil were used as an extractant. The usage of such mixtures of solvents enabled us to extract a variety of active substances, soluble in both water and oils. The obtained extracts were analyzed for their physicochemical and biochemical properties, in order to apply the extract in a body nutrient lotion. The results clearly showed that such extract could be an innovative and multi-functional raw material used in cosmetics industry. [KEY WORDS] Cornus mas; Extract; Antioxidant activity; Emulsions; Formulation/stability [CLC Number] R944 [Document code] A [Article ID] 2095-6975(2018)04-0284-09 crease the amount of waste (packaging) generated in manu- Introduction facturing plants. Manufacturers look for multifunctional cos- From the physicochemical point of view, skin care cos- metic ingredients primarily in materials of natural origin, e.g., metics are available mainly in the form of water in oil (W/O) plant extracts. Their complex chemical compositions make it or oil in water (O/W) emulsions. They contain approximately possible to obtain cosmetics which deliver multi-faceted ac- 70%−80% of water, 10%−30% of hydrophobic substances tivity (e.g. moisturizing, soothing, and nourishing effects) and a range of additives such as emulsifiers, nutrients and using just one ingredient. Moreover, through an appropriate moisturizing agents, preservatives, and fragrances. Cosmetic selection of extraction solvents, formulators are able to obtain emulsions for facial care exhibit a high viscosity (creams). In specific groups of chemical substances, e.g. moisturizing or contrast, body care emulsions are less viscous and, as a result, soothing agents, and antioxidants [1-2]. cosmetics (balms and lotions) flow easily inside their pack- The present study attempted to obtain an innovative mul- aging. This property allows for their problem-free dispensa- tifunctional extract of dogwood (Cornus mas) berries. Multi- [1] tion from the packaging and application to the skin . ple studies have shown that extracts and plant substances Recent years cosmetic manufacturers have searched for derived from Cornus mas demonstrate potent antioxidant, multifunctional materials in order to minimize costs and ob- antibacterial, toning and astringent effects, and effectively tain products with a wide spectrum of effects. With such solu- prevent inflammations in living organisms [3-6]. In addition, tions, it is possible to reduce the number of materials that their health-promoting properties are largely attributable to need to be purchased for the process, and consequently, de- phenolic compounds, vitamin C, iridoids, flavonoids and, in particular, anthocyanins [7-9]. The amount of these compounds [Received on] 19-May-2017 in dogwood berries considerably exceed the content of an- [Research funding] This work was financially supported by The thocyanins found in other fruit [10-11]. The main anthocyanins University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszow include delphinidin-3-galactoside, cyanidin 3-galactoside and as part of the project “Plant extracts as an innovative, multi-functional [12] cosmetic raw materials”. pelargonidin-3-galactoside. According to reference , the [*Corresponding author] E-mail: [email protected] most abundant anthocyanin is cyanidin 3-galactoside. Dog- These authors have no conflict of interest to declare. wood berries contain also a significant amount of phenolic – 284 – Nizioł-Łukaszewska Z, et al. / Chin J Nat Med, 2018, 16(4): 284292 acids such as elagic acid, p-cumaroylhhexoside, and chloro- and after 6 min in the dark, 1 200 µL of sodium carbonate genic acid and bioactive compounds from the family of fla- (7.5%) was added. The samples were incubated in the dark vonoles: quercitine-3-O-glucuronide, kaempferol-3-O-gala- for 2 h and theabsorbance at 740 nm was then measured (He- ctoside, which are able to modify the activity of some en- lios Aquamate by Thermo Scientific). zymes. Iridoids such as loganic acid or cornuside, hydrolyz- The total phenolic concentration was calculated from a −1 able tannins, and elagic and gallic acid derivatives are the Gallic acid (GA) calibration curve (10−100 mg·L ). The data main anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial agents identified in were expressed as mg of Gallic acid equivalents (GA) in 1 L dogwood fruit. The research also demonstrated that fresh of extract, averaged from 3 measurements. dogwood berries are rich in vitamin C. The vitamin C content Determination of flavonoid content is twice as high as in oranges [13] and seven times higher than The total flavonoid content was determined spectropho- [18-19] in blueberries [14]. Active substances contained in dogwood tometrically by the procedure reported with modifica- berries have a surprisingly beneficial effect on human skin and tion using aluminum nitrate nanohydrate. To prepare a sample, can successfully replace synthetic substances [15]. Research 600 µL of an appropriate extract or solvent was mixed with conducted by Sultana and Lee [16] has revealed that extracts 2 400 µL of reaction mixture (80% C2H5OH, 10% Al(NO3)3 × −1 derived from dogwood berries possess a powerful antioxidant 9 H2O, 1 mol·L C2H3KO2). After 40 min of incubation at room temperature the absorbance was measured at 740 nm activity and inhibit the enzyme elastase which is responsible using an Helios Aquamate by Thermo Scientific spectropho- for the degradation of elastin. The inhibition of elastin degra- tometer. dation also contributes to delaying the ageing processes. Con- The flavonoid content was calculated from a quercetin sequently, dogwood extracts can be used as an innovative ingre- hydrate calibration curve (10−100 mg·L−1) and expressed as dient of cosmetic products for face and body care as well. mg of quercetin equivalents (QU) in 1 L of extract, averaged The study reported here made an attempt to determine from 3 measurements. what type of dogwood extract allowed obtaining a cosmetic DPPH• radical scavenging activity assay with a broad spectrum of effects. The extraction process was The DPPH• radical scavenging activity by dogwood fruit conducted using a mixture of water, glycerin, and a plant oil extracts was performed as previously reported [20]. 1 mL of as an extraction solvent. This mixture of solvents makes it extract or appropriate solvent was mixed with 1 mL of possible to obtain a number of active substances, both water- 25 mmol·L−1 DPPH• solution in 96% ethanol. After 40 min of and fat-soluble, from dogwood berries. After completing the incubation at room temperature, the absorbance of the sample extraction process the mixture was separated, yielding wa- was measured at λ = 515 nm using AquaMate spectropho- ter-glycerin and oil extracts. The extracts were subsequently tometer (Thermo Scientific). 96% of ethanol was used as a subjected to an analysis of physicochemical and biochemical blank sample. All the samples were analyzed in triplicate. The properties. Next, the extract was utilized into a formulation of percentage of DPPH• scavenging was calculated for each a nourishing body balm. The effects of the extract on the sample based on the following equation: properties of the finished cosmetic was also determined. • % of DPPH scavenging = [1 – (As/Ac)] × 100 Material and Methods where As is absorbance of the sample and Ac is absorbance of the control sample (DPPH• solution). Extract derivation method ABTS•+ radical scavenging activity assay Following the removal of seeds, the plant material, The scavenging of ABTS•+ free radical was evaluated Cornus mas Bolestraszycki, was dried at 40 oC until constant using a modified protocol [21-22]. The scavenging reaction is weight was achieved. A total of 5 g of dogwood was reduced based on discoloration of the green ABTS radical cation in size and agitated with 100 g of water, glycerin, and sun- (ABTS•+). To prepare the ABTS•+ solution, 19.5 mg of ABTS flower oil mixed at the ratio of 25 : 25 : 50, W/W. The extrac- and 3.3 mg of potassium persulfate were mixed with 7 mL of tion process was conducted for 24 h without any access of light, phosphate buffer pH = 7.4 and dissolved for 16 h in darkness. and the mixtures were stirred at 300 r·min−1 with mechanical stirrer (ChemLand OS20-PRO, screw propeller stirrer shaft). The solution was diluted to reach the absorbance at λ = 414 Next, the extracts were decanted and filtered under re- nm around 1.0. 20 µL of dogwood extract or appropriate sol- •+ duced pressure through filter paper. Consequently, the ob- vent was mixed with 980 µL diluted ABTS solution and in- •+ tained extracts were separated to water, glycerin, and oil phases cubated for 10 min. The decrease in ABTS absorbance was in a separatory funnel for 24 h. The extracts were stored in measured at λ = 414 nm using AquaMate spectrophotometer dark glass bottles at 4 °C until use. (Thermo Scientific), alongside with distilled water as a blank Determination of total phenolic content control. All the samples were analyzed in triplicate.