Hat Works Information Sheet No 4

Hat Works Information Sheet No 4

Hat Works information sheet 4 A Hood is Born The rabbit fur has been cut from the skins, cleaned, mixed and blown into a light When it was done by Machine downy condition. The information sheets In 1859 Thomas Christy, of Christy & Co. and Hatters, came back from the United States From Bunnies to Factory describeGates these with the machinery that would begin the processes.Bowing and NowBlowing a ‘hood’ or ‘body’ can be industrial revolution of British hatting. The formed. forming machine was one of these. It is very distinctive looking: a revolving, perfo­ rated copper cone inside a round booth. When it was done by Hand The hatter shaped the clean, fluffy fur into triangles. He then inserted a slightly Fur is tipped into the top of the booth, and smaller triangular slip of cloth or paper a vacuum is created beneath the cone between two triangles of fur to stop them which sucks the fur down onto its perforat­ matting together in the middle. Then he ed surface. Boiling water is sprayed on to pressed and rolled the fur triangles to make the fur stick together. The hatter make the edges mat together. The fragile, then opens the doors of the booth, gets loose hood produced would be about 30 out the cone, and tips the hood off it. It is inches (about 75cm) long. hot and fragile, with a texture like wet kitchen roll. Fur forming at Carringtons, Stockport, 1934 continues The Weight of the Fur was Crucial A ‘feeder’ would carefully weigh each hoods­worth of fur into the forming machine. For a bowler hat, for example, she would feed in 3oz (about 90g). The distribution of the fur over the cone was also important. A top hat needs more fur at the top of the hood. A cowboy hat needs more fur at the bottom, to make the wide brim. This would be achieved by raising or lowering hatches at the side of the machine, to create draughts of air to direct the fur where it was needed. A Proud Boast The men in the forming shop (the part of the factory where the forming machines were) at Battersby’s hat factory in Stockport used to boast that they could produce a hood in 12 seconds. Removing the hood from the forming cone. Hatters were paid per hood: if you could do 300 in a day you would be earning a decent wage. .

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