University of Alberta The Sociwconomic Impact of Weaving and Naturaiiy Dyed Textile Production in San Juan La Laguna, Guatemala Heloisa Speranza Modesto O A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Research in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Department of Human Ecology Edmonton, Alberta Spring, 2001 National Library Bibliothèque nationale 191 ofCanada du Canada Acquisitions and Acquisitions et Bibliographie Services services bibliographiques 395 WeElington Street 395, rue WNigbon UttawaON KlAON4 ûüawaON KlAON4 Canada Canada The author has granteci a non- L'auteur a accordé une licence non exclwive licence allowhg the exclusive permettant a la National Li'braty of Caflzida to Bibliothèque nationale du Canada de reproduce, loan, distriiute or seil reproduire, prêter, clktriiuer ou copies of this thesis in microform, vendre des copies de cette thèse sous paper or electronic formats. la forme de microfiche/film, de reproduction sur papier ou sur format électronique. The author retains ownership of the L'auteur conserve la propriété du copyright in this thesis. Neither the droit d'auteur qui protège cette thése. thesis nor substantial extracts fiom it Ni Ia thése ni des exsraits substantiels may be printed or otherwise de celle-ci ne doivent être imprimés reproduced without the author's ou autrement reproduits sans son permission. autorisation. Abstract This thesis explores the economic role of weaving and evaluates the economics of production of naturally dyed textile in San Juan la Laguna, Guatemala - when textile activity is based on the use of the backstrap loom and is controlled by women. Textile returns play an important role in that they complement agricultural income and represent the only form of income women have while still aliowing them to remain in their houxholds. Age, persona1 factors, life experiences, and socio-economic status diffenntiate the roles these artisans play in textile prduction. Local social hierarchy has been reproduced within the local artisan groups. The use of naniral dyes involves additional knowledge and effort. Because natural dyes knowledge are restricted and the market for natural dyes textiles is unappealing, the number of artisans who use this technique is limited; this in tum reduces the use of dye-material and market competition. Acknowledgements I wish to Bank the many individuals who have helpeâ to complete the study presented in this thesis. 1 wish to express my gratitude to the numerous Guatemalans, and especially to the artisan women of San Juan La Laguna (las artesanas Juaneras), who unfortunately must remain anonymous. This study would not have ken possible without their fnendship, cooperation, patience. and willingness to share their experiences and knowledge with me. I would like to recognize the Guatemalan artisans, who through their dedication and peneveranœ give continuity to the production of textiles of remarkable meaning and beauty. i am tNiy thankful for the encouragement and insightful suggestions that I received from Dr. Sandra Niessen, Dr. Betty Crown and Dr. Naomi Krogman. I particularly wish to thank Dr. Niessen for providing me with her expertise, support, inspiration, and friendship. My research in Guatemala was made possible by the financial assistance I received from the Canadian International Development Agency and the Canadian Home Economics Association, for which I am very grateful. I wish to express my deepest gratitude to my husband. Kelsey. for being an unfailing source of support, understanding. encouragement, and technical expertise throughout the sometimes difficult path of this degree. His assistance and companionship were essential resources in enabling me to accomplish this project I wish to Mank my rnother, Margarida T. Speranza Modesto. and my father, Walrny Modesto. for first sürnulating my interest in community work and sharing their wisdom with me. Both of them, each one in their own particular way, taught me the value of discipline, dedication and an optimistic approach to la&. I w*h to express my gratitude to the many friends who ofkred valuable support during this project - to list al1 their names would requiie an additional volume. Also. much thanks to my Change fw Chiidren Association hmily for providing me with a rich community He and a valuable leaming environmant Finally, a thank you to Mariiyn Nelson Lr canng about my mental heatth and encoursging me to take regular break from my academic work Tabïe of Contents Chapter One: ~trod~~ti~~~~~~~~~H~o"~~"~~~~~~H~mrH~~~O~~"""OO1 Theory and Objectives .................. ..... .................................................................................... 4 Practical Justification .............................................................................................................. 6 Organizaîion of the Thesis........................................................................................................... 7 Chapter Two: Research Approach and Field Methods .....~..............9 Introduction ....................................... .......................................................................................... 9 Research Approach ...................................................................................................................... 9 The Fieldwork Process: Approach and Methods ....................................................................... 12 Reflection on Fieldwork Strategies ........................................................................................ 22 Information Recording and Validation ................................................................................... 26 Data Analysis ..........................................................................................................................26 Research Limitations ............................................................................................................26 Summary .......................... .. ................................................................................................. 28 Chapter Three: Textiie Production in the National Context................................................... 30 Introduction ...............................................................................................................................30 National Context ........................................................................................................................ 30 Development of Tourism ...........................................................................................................32 Textile Activity .......................................................................................................................... 33 Textile Quality ....................................................................................................................... 35 Trade and the Rote of Intemediaries ..................................................................................... 38 Summary ......................,.. .. .................................................................................................... 41 Chapter Four: Local Economic Sening ., ..,.,......~......~........~................................... 43 Introduction ...............................................................................................................................43 Local General Context ............................. .. ............................................................................ 43 Wage Labour and Seasonal Oscillations ........................................................... ............... 45 From Subsistence to Migratory Seasonal Labour................................ ,.46 San Juan and the Coflee Boom .................. .... ........ ........... ...................................... 47 Combining Incomes to GmteeSubsistence ...................................................................... 48 Summary ........................... ......*.......................*................................................................. 49 Chnpter Fin: TedeProduction and Sde in San Juan La LOg~lna *.m.*51 Introduction ...................... ... .............................................................................................. 51 Weaving Activity in San Juan ....................... .................................................................... 51 Textile Production and Quality of the Textiles Pduced ..................................... ..............52 Textile Marketing in San Juan and the Role of Intemediaries ..............................................54 Orgémiration of Textile Production in San Juan La Laguna ..................... ....................... 56 Independent Weavers ........................................................................................................ 56 Pieceworkers.......... ......................... ..... ........................ 59 Table of Contents Entrepreneurs.......................................................................................................................... 60 Projects: Alternative Textile Production Organizations......................................................... 61 Summary .................................................................................................................................. 65 Chapter Six: Rola of Weaven and the Household Economy ..,,..owe.....ee.....ee..e.......e....me..... 68 Introduction ...........................................................................................................................