MINISTRY OF EDUCATION AND SCIENCE OF UKRAINE KYIV NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGIES AND DESIGN FASHION DESIGN IN A MULTICULTURAL SPACE Monograph To the 90th anniversary of Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design A series of monographs of the Faculty of Design Košice 2020 UDC 7.012:687.1.016 Recommended for publication by the Academic Board of Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design (Protocol № 3, dated 23.10.2019) Authors: Kolosnichenko М. V. – Doctor of Eng., Prof. Vasylieva О. S. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Pashkevich К. L. – Doctor of Eng., Prof. Vynnychuk М. S. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Krotova Т. F. – Doctor of Arts, Prof. Lutsker Т. V. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Yakovlev М. І. – Doctor of Eng., Prof. Nikolayeva Т. І. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Nikolayeva Т. V. – Cand. Sc., Prof. Prykhodko-Kononenko І. О. – Cand. Sc., Ostapenko N. V. – Doctor of Eng., Prof. Assoc. Prof. Kolosnichenko О. V. – Doctor of Arts, Prof. Donchenko S. V. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Chuprina N. V. – Doctor of Arts, Prof. Rubanka А. І. – Cand. Sc. Tretiakova L. D. – Doctor of Eng., Prof. Struminska Т.V. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Yezhova О.V. – Cand. Sc., Doctor of Ped., Prof. Omelchenko G. V. – Cand. Sc. Kredenets N. D. – Doctor of Ped., Prof. Rubanka М. М. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Ovcharek V. Ye. – Cand. Sc., Assoc. Prof. Vasylieva І. V. – Assoc. Prof. Reviewed by: Kuznetsova Iryna Oleksiivna – Doctor of Arts, Prof., Prof. of Department of Graphics of the Publishing and Printing Institute of the National Technical University of Ukraine “Igor Sikorsky Kyiv Polytechnic Institute”; Mykhailova Rada Dmytrivna – Doctor of Arts, Prof., Prof. of Department of interior and furniture design, Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design. FASHION DESIGN IN A MULTICULTURAL SPACE: MONOGRAPH / М. V. Kolosnichenko, К. L. Pashkevich, Т. F. Krotova et al. – Kyiv: KNUTD, 2020. – Publisched by Academic Society of Michal Baludansky, Košice, Slovakia, 2020 - 258 p. - Printed by UK Technical University of Košice, Slovakia. Printing 300 pcs. The collective monograph contains the results of the synthesis of theoretical materials, as well as the authors` applied research developments on the design of the clothes of different assortment and purpose, made from different materials considering the modern scientific methods. ISBN 978-60-973703-0-5 © M. V. Kolosnichenko, К. L. Pashkevich, Т. F. Krotova et al., 2020 © Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design, Kyiv, Ukraine, 2020 © Editor – Ing. Lenka Dubovická, PhD., 2020 © Editorial preparation, setting – Michal Varchola, Academic Society of Michal Baludansky, Košice, Slovakia, 2020 CONTENT Preamble 4 1 CREATIVE SEARCH IN THE DESIGN OF THE CLOTHES: HISTORICAL 6 EXPERIENCE AND PROSPECTS 1.1. TECTONICS AND COMPOSITION OF CLOTHES IN THE SHAPE- 6 FORMING PROCESS PASHKEVICH Kalina, YAKOVLEV Mykola 1.2. AESTHETICS AND TECTONICS OF FORMATION IN ARTISTIC 23 MODELING OF A COSTUME NIKOLAYEVA Tetiana V. 1.3. SYNTHESIS OF CLASSIC SUIT FORMS WITH TOPICAL STYLE 45 DIRECTIONS KROTOVA Tetiana 1.4. UNIFORM DESIGN: HISTORIOGRAPHY, EVOLUTION OF FORM 61 AND STYLE KOLOSNICHENKO Olena, YAKOVLEV Mykola 1.5. ECLECTICISM AS THE BASIS OF DESIGN PRACTICES IN THE 87 MODERN FASHION SYSTEM CHUPRINA Nataliia, KOLOSNICHENKO Maryna 1.6. BIONICS AS A PERSPECTIVE DIRECTION IN CLOTHING DESIGN 104 NIKOLAYEVA Тetiana I., KOLOSNICHENKO Мaryna 1.7. IMAGE AND STYLE FEATURES OF JEWELERY AND ADDITIONS IN 129 THE SUIT SYSTEM VYNNYCHUK Mariia, KOLOSNICHENKO Maryna 2 INTEGRATION OF ART AND TECHNOLOGIES IN CLOTHING DESIGN 145 2.1. PRINCIPLES OF TRANSFORMATION IN CLOTHING DESIGN 145 OSTAPENKO Nataliia, LUTSKER Tetiana, KOLOSNICHENKO Maryna 2.2. TECHNOLOGY AS A FACTOR IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF SPECIAL 170 CLOTHES RUBANKA Alla, TRETIAKOVA Larysa, RUBANKA Mykola 2.3. CLOTHING DESIGN FOR CORPORATIONS: AESTHETIC AND 198 ERGONOMIC ASPECTS PRYKHODKO-KONONENKO Iryna, KOLOSNICHENKO Olena, KREDENETS Nelia 2.4. SCHOOL CLOTHING DESIGN: HISTORY, TOPICAL TRENDS 214 VASYLIEVA Olena, OVCHAREK Volodymyr, VASYLIEVA Iryna 2.5. CHILDREN’S SPORT CLOTHES DESIGN: METHODS AND 230 COMPOSITIONAL MEANS OMELCHENKO Ganna, KOLOSNICHENKO Maryna, DONCHENKO Svitlana 2.6. MODERN INFORMATION TECHNOLOGIES IN CLOTHING DESIGN 247 PASHKEVYCH Kalina, YEZHOVA Olga, STRUMINSKA Tetiana PREAMBLE Clothing as a result of design activities is created in accordance with the general laws and methods of shaping of any design object. The pressing issue of modern fashion design is not only solving of the functional task of creation of ready-made products but also ensuring of the artistic expressiveness of the clothes in the context of fashion and imaginative and stylistic trends of the specific time, the harmonious perfection of shape, considering the properties of the materials and other components. A wide range of modern textile materials, rapid changes in fashion, constructive and stylistic diversity of modern clothing, as well as the rapid introduction of computer-aided design technologies necessitate the innovative conceptual approaches to the clothing design, that is why the monograph is relevant comprehensive research. The monograph considers the problems of fashion design from the perspective of art and technologies. The first section presents the results of an artistic search in the clothing design, with attention paid to both historical experience and prospects for the development of modern design trends. Clothing is considered as a “shape – material – structure” system, in the context of which the basic principles of tectonics for clothing design are formulated. The means of composition regarding the organization and harmonization of the shape of clothing in the context of the research are considered, the structural and logical scheme of taking into account the properties of fabrics at different stages of clothing design is developed. The authors determine the artistic and compositional characteristics of the tectonic structure of new promising models in the development of the theory of costume shaping based on the analysis of modern shapes of the classical suit in combination with other styles in the collections of British, French, Italian and Ukrainian designers. Also, the artistic and aesthetic problems of evolution of the uniform as an object of design activity are generalized, the analysis of its historical development as a component of the project culture is given, the cultural phenomenon of the uniform, its traditions, symbolism, and characteristic features of the development are studied. The part of the research is devoted to the identification of the factors that influence the selection of jewelry and accessories to the costume within the systematic approach to the process of artistic design, based on the principles of harmonious shaping of accessories and jewelry in the “costume system” and associative shaping of the costume considering the principles of bionics. The second section of the monograph is devoted to the problems of the integration of art and technologies into the clothing design. The authors consider the use of principles of transformation in the design-projecting of the clothes, theoretically substantiate and form an information base of the elements-transformers to create modern special and uniform clothes, and structure their range depending on the types of clothes and operating conditions. Also, the research is devoted to solving the problem of improvement of design-projecting of special and uniform ergonomic clothes with predictable reliability indicators by harmonizing the shape and establishing the unity of ergonomic and aesthetic properties. The issues of design of school uniforms are comprehensively considered: the history, modern trends, the analysis of the basic components, color combinations, and proportionality of sets of school uniforms in Ukraine and other countries of the world. The introduction of modern tools of ergonomic design into the process of industrial design is offered. On the example of the development of sports and children`s clothes, the ways of realization of such stages of designing as “design-research” and “design concept” are considered. Also, the analysis of modern information technologies used in the design of the clothes is carried out, the situation regarding three- dimensional designing of the clothes, including the consideration of the properties of fabrics, is analyzed. The collective monograph contains the results of the synthesis of theoretical materials on the issues of design of the clothes made from different materials, based on the tectonic approach and modern scientific methods, as well as the results of the authors` applied research developments on the design of the clothes of different assortment and purpose. Maryna Kolosnichenko Kalina Pashkevich Tetiana Krotova 1 CREATIVE SEARCH IN THE DESIGN OF THE CLOTHES: HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE AND PROSPECTS 1.1. TECTONICS AND COMPOSITION OF CLOTHES IN THE SHAPE-FORMING PROCESS PASHKEVICH Kalina1, YAKOVLEV Mykola2 1Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design 2National Academy of Arts of Ukraine [email protected] Abstract. The work is devoted to the development of theoretical and methodological fundamentals of the design of the clothes as a practical component of technical aesthetics, based on the study and critical analysis of the use of basic principles of tectonics in a holistic shape-forming process. The concept of “tectonics” in the shape-forming compositional process has been analyzed; the tectonic approach as a mean of technical aesthetics for