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Ann Arbor, MI 48106 THE DEVELOPMENT OF A MODEL TO INDICATE RESIDUAL WEAR LIFE IN RECYCLED CLOTHING DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Suzanne Douthitt, B.S., M.S. ***** The Ohio State University 1993 Dissertation Committee: Approved by: Dr. Kathryn A. Jakes Dr. Charles J. Noel j Advisor/ Dr. Hazel 0. Jackson College' of Human Ecology '' Graduate Program Dr. William I. Notz -Textiles an$K Clothing ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I wish to express my appreciation to my advisor, Dr. Kathryn Jakes, for her guidance, encouragement, and commitment throughout my graduate studies and this research. I feel fortunate to have assembled such a talented and supportive committee. To Dr. Noel, I extend my sincere thanks for sharing his guidance and technical expertise (along with a great sense of humor) during this study and my coursework. Dr. Jackson' s enthusiasm and input have been invaluable. I am grateful to Dr. Notz for helping to make Statistics manageable to me. His interest in the project and hard work with the analysis are greatly appreciated. My appreciation to Dr. Nancy A. Rudd for providing me with confidence and motivation throughout the program. Her commitment to education and the students is evident. Special recognition and thanks are extended to Rose Burnette, Carol D'Ippolito, and Leta Hendricks for their time and expertise, so generously shared in this research. I am most grateful to Chuck Shearer, General Manager of Grossman Industries, for supplying the shirts and expressing a willingness to cooperate with this project. ii I would also like to acknowledge Fred Ruland for his consultation and genuine enthusiasm for research and teaching. My appreciation for the Helen Clarkson Fellowship and the Mary Lapitsky Graduate Award goes to the Department of Textiles and Clothing, The Ohio State University. The monies helped to defray the cost of this project and allowed me to devote a full-time schedule to this project. I wish to extend my appreciation to the other graduate students in the program for their friendship and encouragement. It certainly helped to make the process easier (and even fun at times) . Special mention to Laurie Crawford, whose optimism, support, and caring nature have been most welcome. My heartfelt thanks goes to my parents and sister, Laurie, for expressing their belief in my abilities and their constant encouragement. It is comforting to know that you are always only a phone call away. Most importantly, I want to extend my love and thanks to my husband, Craig, and Newfoundlands, Zevon, and Beasley, whose unconditional support and devotion throughout the process enabled me to fulfill my goals. The gratitude and recognition that is due for their help in this and all my endeavors can never be adequately expressed. I dedicate this work to them. iii VITA 1 9 8 1 ..................... B.S. Long Island University Brooklyn, New York Physician's Assistant License and Certification 1981-1985.................. Physician's Assistant Brooklyn, New York 1985-1990.................. Research Assistant The Ohio State University 1990-1992.................. Graduate Teaching Assistant Department of Textiles and Clothing, The Ohio State University 1992 ............ ........ M.S. The Ohio State University Department of Textiles and Clothing FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Human Ecology, Textiles and Clothing Minor Field: Statistics iv TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS................................. ii VITA ............................................ iv LIST OF F I G U R E S ................................ viii LIST OF TABLES ................................... ix CHAPTER PAGE I. INTRODUCTION............................. 1 Problem Statement..................... 4 P u r p o s e .............................. 6 Assumptions........................... 9 Limitations........................... 9 Definitions............................. 10 II. RELATED LITERATURE......................... 12 Clothing Consumption as a Process ......... 12 Apparel Degradation...................... 13 The Concept of Waste Applied to Clothing. 16 The Economic Connection Using Full-Cost Accounting............................. 18 Textile Product Serviceability............. 19 Aesthetic Appearance and the Concept of Serviceability......................... 25 Textile Testing ......................... 29 Laboratory Simulation Tests . ........... 32 Review of Prediction Tests................ 34 Methods of Monitoring the Progressive Deterioration of Textile Materials. 36 The Use of Degradative Curves and Simulation W o r k ..................... 40 S u m m a r y ................................ 41 Research Question ........................44 v CHAPTER PAGE III. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK................ 46 IV. METHODOLOGY........ 59 Selection and Training of Judges........... 60 Selection of Characteristics for Assessment................... 63 Part I: Assessment of the Judges........... 69 Data Collection Instrument................ 71 Method.................................. 72 Replicas............................ 75 Data Analysis ........................... 77 Part II: Destructive Tests................ 82 Method.................................. 85 Data Analysis ........................... 88 V. PRESENTATION OF FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION OF PART I ............................... 92 Pilot Study ............................. 92 Part I - Assessment of Judges ............. 94 Classification of Shirts Based on Evidence of Discard .................... 97 Cluster Analysis......................... 98 Factor Analysis ......................... 99 Discussion.............................. 106 VI. PRESENTATIONS OF FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION OF PART II.............................. 112 Description............................ 112 Comparison of Physical Testing to ASTM Specifications........................ 113 Pearson's Correlations................... 114 Multiple Regressions..................... 137 Description............................ 139 Canonical Correlation Analysis............ 142 vi CHAPTER PAGE VII. INTERPRETATION OF FINDINGS AND CONCLUSIONS........................ 153 Description of Objective #1 ............. 153 Description of Objective #2 ............. 157 Description of Objective #3 ............. 159 Description of Objective #4 ............. 165 Conclusion............................ 172 VIII. SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS................ 175 Implications and Recommendations........ 183 APPENDICES 1 ; A. Definitions............................. 187 B. Script for Training Judges.................. 190 C. Worksheets for Visual Assessments.......195 D. Diagram of Location of Wear in Shirt......... 197 LIST OF REFERENCES............................... 199 LIST OF FIGURES FIGURE PAGE 1. Fabric Categories.................. 26 2. Criteria for Defining Aesthetic Concepts .............. 27 3. Hypothetical Curves Illustrating Different Types of Degradation P a t t e r n s ....................... 39 4. Clothing Consumption Model with Discard Options.................. 47 5. Disposition Decision Taxonomy. .... 50 6. Model for Life Cycle Analysis of a Textile Product ............ 52 viii LIST OF TABLES TABLE PAGE 1. Residential Solid Waste Composition . 14 2. Key for Snagging Resistance Replicas. 75 3. Key for Abrasion Resistance Replicas. 76 4. Wilcoxon Test for Interrater Consistency - Pilot Study ........... 79 5. Friedman Test for Interrater Consistency - Pilot Study ........... 81 6. List of Evaluative Tests for Recycled Shirts .................... 86 7. Numerical Rating for Snagging Resistance Laboratory T e s t .................... 87 8. Summary of Significant Friedman Tests . 94 9. Wilcoxon Test for Interrater Consistency - Sanple D a t a ........... 95 10. Friedman Test for Interrater Consistency - Sanple D a t a