Conference Proceedings Published by Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) 36 quai d’Austerlitz 75013 Paris France Conference Proceedings 2011 Fashion & Luxury: Between Heritage & Innovation © International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes 2011 Individual contributors will also retain ownership of separate copyrights in their own contributions. All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of short passages for the purposes of criticism and review, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior permission of the publisher. Fashion & Luxury: Between Heritage & Innovation ISBN: 978-2-914863-23-0 Printed by Imprimerie Compedit, La Ferté Macé, France. Contents 05 Preface /// Dr. Satoshi Onuma, Bunka Fashion College, Japan 07 Introduction /// Sylvie Ebel, Olivier Assouly, Institut Français de la Mode, France 11 Innovation and Sustainable Development 11 /// Luxury Fashion: The Role of Innovation as a Key Contributing Factor in the Development of Luxury Fashion Goods and Sustainable Fashion Design Angela Finn 19 /// Revealing Historic Traditions of Craftsmanship in the Context of Sustainable Fashion Alison Gwilt 25 /// A Sustainable Synergy of Traditional and CAD Based Silk Saree Designing/Production Kumaraguru Kasinathan 39 Luxury, Distribution and Staging 39 /// The Grand Fashion Narrative in the Australian Museum. Curating the Luxury Design House Retrospective Robyn Healy 46 /// Virtual fl agships: An Evolution in Brand Communication? Tim Jackson 53 /// Heritage and Innovation in Luxury Brands’ Flagship Stores Anthony Kent 61 Brands and Heritage 61 /// References to the Past: the Role of Heritage and Cultural Values in Fashion Branding Chitra Buckley 69 /// Innovation, Interaction, and Inclusion: Heritage Luxury Brands in Collusion with the Consumer Kay McMahon & Jane Morley 79 /// Transitioning from Contract Manufacturing to Luxury Branding: A Premium Fashion Enterprise in China Yuefeng Ni & Hong Yu 87 Education, Innovation and Technology 87 /// Tradition and Innovation from New Technology Christina Cie 95 /// Is TechnoCraft a New Cornerstone for Luxury Fashion? Marie O’Mahony 102 /// Shaping the Fashion Curriculum for the Future: Lessons from Creative Graduates Creative Futures Elizabeth Rouse 110 /// The Role of Fashion Education in the Dynamic Transmission of Heritage and Creativity Rosemary Varley & Edwin Phiri 117 Culture, Identity and Luxury 117 /// Working Women during the Turning Point from Japanese-Style to Western-Style Clothing Naomi Ajima 126 /// The Luxury of a National Heritage: Dutch Heritage Strategies Maaike Feitsma 133 /// Bespoke as the Staging of a Garment: a Contemporary Roman Case Study Pascal Gautrand 137 /// The Role of Luxury Fashion in Reviving Heritage Fashion Arts. An Indian Perspective Meenakshi Sehgal 147 /// Defi ning Luxury the Indian Way Nien Siao 155 /// Alexander Van Slobbe and the Invention of Dutch Luxury Nanda van den Berg 161 /// (Not) Only for the Happy Few? The Dutch New Luxury Constantin-Felix von Maltzahn 173 History, Economics and Innovation 173 /// Heritage and Innovation: Charles Frederick Worth, John Redfern, and the Dawn of Modern Fashion Daniel James Cole 182 /// The Dandy as an Innovator: the Usefulness of Paradoxes Jeroen Visser 187 /// Using a Professional Organization to Enhance its Reputation. The Case of the Parisian Haute Couture. A Longitudinal Study (1973-2008) David Zajtmann 193 Clothing, Accessories and Innovation 193 /// Stagnation in Innovations in Wedding Wear: Designers Riding on Heritage Saroj Bala & Tripti Gupta 201 /// Get Ahead, Get a Hat: Model Millinery in the 21st Century Margo Barton 210 /// A Case Study for Innovation in Contemporary Tweed Kirsty McDougall 219 Luxury, Representations and Ideology 219 /// Faux pas? Faking Materials, and Languages of Luxury Ricarda Bigolin 227 /// Luxury or the Tradition of the Monopoly. Variation on the “Accursed Share” Nicolas Liucci-Goutnikov 231 /// Is Creativity the Answer? So what is the Question? Wendy Malem 238 /// Luxury in a Modern Context. Conscientious Integrity Karen Webster Preface 5 Dr. Satoshi Onuma CHAIRPERSON OF IFFTI PRESIDENT, BUNKA FASHION COLLEGE, TOKYO, JAPAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF THE BOARD, BUNKA GAKUEN EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION The 13th annual conference for the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI) was held from 11th – 14th April 2011 at the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) in Paris. The theme for this year’s conference was Fashion and Luxury: Between Heritage and Innovation. The IFM was a particularly appropriate location for this year’s conference given the important role that Paris has played in the development and promotion of fashion and the way the IFM continues to actively promote the exchange of thoughts, ideas and research on this theme. This year’s conference attracted approximately 250 delegates from around the world and included those from both academia and industry. Delegates were treated to highly stimulating and informative talks by keynote speakers that challenged the commonly held defi nition of luxury and also stressed that heritage and innovation need not be mutually exclusive concepts when applied to the fashion industry. The distinguished keynote speakers for this year’s conference included: Mr. Dominique Jacomet (Director General, IFM); Mr. Guillaume de Seynes (Executive Vice-President, Hermès International); Mr. Bruno Remaury (Brand Image Consultant); Ms. Florence Müller (Fashion Writer & Curator, IFM Faculty Member); Mr. Bruno Pavlovsky (President, Chanel Fashion and Haute Couture); Mr. Daniel Harari (Director and CEO, Lectra); and, Mr. Didier Grumbach (Chairman, Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de mode). All of the keynote speakers gave insightful presentations and I would like to thank them for their valuable contribution. Other highlights from the 2011 conference included the presentation of 30 academic papers by staff from fashion institutions around the world; a tour of Docks en Seine; an impressive fashion design exhibition and a vibrant cocktail party; a private viewing of the exhibition “History of Contemporary Fashion (1990s-2000s)” at the Museum of Decorative Arts; and an informative visit to Lectra’s offi ces which included a presentation of Lectra’s activities and software. I would like to take this opportunity to especially thank Mr. Dominique Jacomet, Director General of IFM, and Ms. Sylvie Ebel, Executive Director of IFM, for hosting this year’s conference. I would also like to sincerely thank the entire organizing committee at IFM for the professionalism and tireless effort which they showed in making the many arrangements for this year’s conference. The conference was extremely well organized and I am grateful to everyone who has played a role in making it such a success. I would also like to thank Commodore Vijay Chaturvedi (Retd.) for his constant support and guidance as the Secretary of IFFTI. One of the objectives of IFFTI when it was founded in 1999 was to create opportunities for fashion educational institutions and industry to share ideas, research and knowledge. I am confi dent that the 2011 IFFTI conference at IFM has successfully contributed towards fulfi lling this objective. I look forward to attending many more successful conferences in the years to come as IFFTI continues to fulfi ll its important role in the global fashion industry. Introduction 7 Sylvie Ebel EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE, PARIS, FRANCE Olivier Assouly HEAD OF RESEARCH, INSTITUT FRANÇAIS DE LA MODE, PARIS, FRANCE Following on from London in 2009 and Taipei in 2010, in April 2011, the Institut Français de la Mode organised the 13th IFFTI conference in Paris on the theme Fashion and luxury: between heritage and innovation. The symposium fi rst of all proposed contributions from experts, professionals and academics all keen to deal with the conference theme head-on. The symposium opened with an introduction from Dominique Jacomet, the IFM’s director outlining the economic issues at stake, followed by a talk from Guillaume de Seynes, Executive Vice-President at Hermès highlighting the historical evolutions that have taken place at Hermès. Bruno Remaury spoke next, on the anthropological foundations of luxury brands. He was followed by Daniel Harari (Director and CEO of Lectra) who pointed out the need for an innovative dynamic in the luxury and fashion industries. The live contributions were complemented by two IFM-produced fi lms that dealt with the heritage issues faced by brands, one with Florence Müller (fashion historian) and the other with Bruno Pavlovsky (President, Chanel Fashion). The day’s proceedings closed with a talk from Didier Grumbach (Chairman, Fédération Française de la Couture) on the origins of and issues facing haute couture. During the course of the conference, over thirty academically researched papers were given by international lecturers and specialists selected by an international scientifi c committee under the aegis of the Institut Français de la Mode. In addition to the delegates from IFFTI member institutions, a great number of academics and fashion industry professionals also took part in the debates that resulted in a number of topics coming to the fore. From an epistemological point of view, a great number of the presentations tended to take an academic approach. The conference covered a broad range of