PUMPKIN PICKING IN AMISH COUNTRY GREAT MIDWEST DRIVES MUSIC FESTIVALS WORTH THE TRIP FALL TRAVEL HIT THE ROAD FOR AN AUTUMN ADVENTURE CHICAGO TRIBUNE 1 Covered bridge in Sleeping Bear Dunes, Michigan. 24 FALL TRAVEL outdoors HIT THE ROAD Four scenic drives in the Midwest show off autumn’s splendor By Katherine Rodeghier The advent of autumn is a great excuse for a road trip. Take in fall scenery on four wheels, pulling over to snap a photo, en- joy a meal or stretch your legs to explore on foot. Michigan’s M-22 Michigan Route 22 winds along Lake Michigan between Man- istee and Traverse City through small towns, rural scenes and sandy wilderness. Try a tasting at one of more than 30 Leelanau Peninsula wineries while drinking in au- tumn views. Good Harbor Vine- yards and Black Star Farms lie right on M-22. Farther south, a short drive off the highway north of Manistee leads to Douglas Valley’s tasting room in a former railway bunk house. Sleeping Bear Dunes National CHICAGO TRIBUNE 25 Rock formations dot the park’s 18 wooded canyons, 14 with waterfalls. Bluffs overlook the Illinois River, including Starved Rock, named for a Native American legend. 26 FALL TRAVEL Point Betsie Lighthouse Lakeshore claims 64 miles of shoreline Illinois River Road and merits a detour on Michigan Route 109 to see giant piles of sand, some 450 This national scenic byway loosely fol- feet high, set against a backdrop of for- lows the Illinois River across north-cen- ests sporting fall colors. Get a workout tral Illinois. In Ottawa, Illinois Route 71 on the popular Dune Climb about 5 miles — known as Canyon Drive — meanders north of Empire. For a less challenging west through woodlands approaching exercise, choose one of the park’s short- Starved Rock State Park. Pull over to est hiking trails or just motor along the walk to Council Overhang, a hollowed- 7.4-mile Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive for out sandstone dome framing autumn views of the dunes and Glen Lake. scenery like a stained glass window. South of the park, climb 34 steps up Rock formations dot the park’s 18 Point Betsie Lighthouse and tour its mu- wooded canyons, 14 with waterfalls. seum and boathouse. Any strength left? Bluffs overlook the Illinois River, in- Your 120 steps to the Inspiration Point cluding Starved Rock, named for a Na- overlook near Arcadia are rewarded tive American legend. Fall-colors trolley with views of Lake Michigan shoreline. tours and weekend guided hikes depart from Starved Rock Lodge. The visitor ● Fuel up: The Grand Cafe at the origi- center has maps for self-guided hikes. nal Cherry Republic store in Glen Arbor Popular Starved Rock may close when honors America’s “Cherry Capital” by parking lots fill. Matthiessen State Park, packing plenty of the fruit into its menu. south on Illinois Route 178, has similar Shelves here and in the Traverse City topography and fewer crowds. store contain 150-plus cherry products, Autumn leaves line the Illinois and from wine to salsa. Free samples, too. 231-226-3014, cherryrepublic.com Michigan Canal, where a replica 19th- century packet boat transports riders ● Instagram worthy: M-22 at the cause- back in time as mules walk a towpath way separating Big Glen and Little Glen and guides share canal history. lakes with views of Sleeping Bear Dunes Buy tickets at the Lock 16 Visitor Cen- to the west. ter in LaSalle. Previous page, Getty photo; Katherine Rodeghier/Chicago Tribune; Getty photo CHICAGO TRIBUNE 27 Wildlife Prairie Park, about 10 miles dessert, the mixed berry cobbler, has west of Peoria, exhibits bison, wolves remained on the menu since the restau- and black bear. Lodging options include rant’s beginning. 740-569-5015, innatce- train cabooses. Farther south, Chautau- darfalls.com qua National Wildlife Refuge forests ● Instagram worthy: Rose Lake in and marshes attract birds, such as mi- Hocking Hills State Park mirrors a tap- grating white pelicans in the fall. estry of fall colors. ● Fuel up: Cajun Connection owner Ron McFarlain ships alligator from his Door County native Louisiana, making it a specialty of the house along with jambalaya, Roads crisscross this thumb on the map etouffee, gumbo and pecan pie. This of Wisconsin yielding ever-changing unlikely spot for bayou fare occupies a autumn vistas as hardwoods light up former single-family home along rural in bursts of red and gold. Before cross- U.S. Route 6 near Utica. 815-667-9855, ing the bridge onto the peninsula, drive ronscajunconnection.com through Potawatomi State Park. A 75- foot observation tower perches on a ● Instagram worthy: LaSalle Canyon bluff; the view of Sturgeon Bay rimmed and waterfall in Starved Rock State Park. in fall colors merits the climb. Driving north, Wisconsin routes 42 Hocking Hills and 57 split, one following along Lake Michigan, the other Green Bay, before Editors at Car and Driver magazine Route 42 continues to the peninsula’s road-test vehicles on the winding pave- tip. These highways form the Door ment of Ohio’s Hocking Hills, roughly 40 County Coastal Byway. Make a detour miles southeast of Columbus. A favored at Peninsula State Park to see Eagle fall route, the Hocking Hills Scenic By- Bluff Lighthouse, where the former way links Hocking State Forest and the keeper’s cottage has maritime exhibits. six parcels of Hocking Hills State Park. At Cana Island Lighthouse, work out the From Rockbridge, take Ohio Route 374 kinks in your driving legs by climbing 97 south, looping around this vivid patch of steps to the top. Appalachia on Ohio routes 664 and 56. You won’t need to leave your car to View color-splashed forest from the enjoy the overlook as you drive north rim trail along the deep gorge at Conkles into the community of Ellison Bay or Hollow State Nature Preserve, or take to admire the Moravian and Norwegian short hikes to Cedar Falls, the expansive architecture reflecting the heritage of recessed Ash Cave or Old Man’s Cave. the village of Ephraim. White clapboard Get your adrenalin flowing by zip- buildings and church steeples resemble lining through woodlands with Hocking New England in this “Cape Cod of the Hills Canopy Tours. Afraid of heights? Midwest.” Ride its Segways instead. Autumn means apples at the Laurel- ● Fuel up: Goats on the turf roof of Al ville Fruit Co., where third-generation Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant draw owner Robert Bowers Jr. turns out cider stares. Swedish meatballs and square worth a stop in Laurelville. pancakes served by costumed staff at If you’re ready to turn over the driving breakfast and lunch draw raves. Last to someone else, let the Hocking Valley year the Sister Bay hotspot added Stab- Scenic Railway in Nelsonville transport bur Beer Garden using a Norwegian you through autumn scenery on week- building relocated to the site. 920-854- end tours. It adds Friday departures in 2626, aljohnsons.com October. ● Instagram worthy: Wisconsin Route ● Fuel up: Two 1840s log cabins at the 42’s crazy zigzags through woodlands Inn & Spa at Cedar Falls house Kindred ablaze in autumn hues on its final mile Spirits for casual fine dining. A favorite at the tip of the peninsula. ■ 28 FALL TRAVEL.