WINESOFARMENIA LET THERE BE WINE! Armenia’s excellent terroir-driven wines are the result of its volcanic-rich soil and diverse climate. This is where wine began, and is now an up-and- coming destination for serious wine lovers, reports Kanika Dhawan after a recent visit Women workers sorting grapes at Karas winery in Armavir region 42 Sommelier INDIA September-ocTOBER 2017 The Book of Genesis: Areshian, unearthed evidence inside the caves Chapter 9:20 – Noah, a man of the soil, was the of Areni village in the rocky Vayots Dzor or first to plant a vineyard “Gorge of Woes” region. The research team found a wine press, remnants of vines, seeds inegrowing in and vats with residue, dating back to the Copper Armenia dates back Age, which was roughly 6,100 years ago. to Biblical times. It Armenia’s winemaking culture may have is stated in the Book lapsed to some extent due to the ravages of of Genesis, that in war, but it’s back in full swing now with avant- W1657 (2104 BCE) God’s chosen one, Noah, after garde wineries, post-communism vintners disembarking from the Ark which saved him – and snazzy wine restaurants spread across the and all the other creatures – from the great Flood, country. Lianna Abelyan, Head of Project was tasked with restocking a denuded earth. Implementation, Vine and Wine Foundation of The Ark came to rest at the top of Mount Ararat, Armenia, says that wine continues to be an item which is now the highest mountain in Eastern of importance in the daily life of Armenians. Turkey and was a part of Armenia until 1915, “Wine is the main ingredient in all rituals in the when Turkey took it over. There, Noah is said church, as it is perceived as a symbol of Jesus’s to have planted a vineyard at the foot of the blood. Since ancient times, we have used wine mountain, harvested grapes, fermented them and to bless grapes for a ritual called grape-blessing, become inebriated on too much of his own wine. after which the grape becomes wine; it is also In “Ancient Wine: The Search for used during weddings.” the Origins of Viniculture” by Patrick About 83% of this wine is produced in the E McGovern, Scientific Director of the Ararat Valley and Armavir region. The other Biomolecular Archaeology Project, University four winemaking regions are Aragatsotn, of Pennsylvania Museum, who is often referred Tavush, Syunik and Vayots Dzor. Today, more to as the “Indiana Jones of ancient ales, wines, Van Ardi’s refreshing than 45 Armenian companies are making over dry, white wine made and extreme beverages”, there is a reference to from the indigenous 100 types of wine with indigenous and foreign wine in Armenia around the 8th century BCE. Kangun grape. varietals. Indeed, Armenia could be described Inscriptions by the kings of as a viticulturist’s dream. Urartu who were settled around Lake An account of the country’s Van (once part of southern Armenia, main wineries, which form an ideal now in eastern Turkey) described base for wine tours, is given below. Ararat Valley, Armenia’s key agricultural hub, as the “land of the VAN ARDI vineyards”. Even the Greek historian, Named for owner and winemaker Herodotus, wrote about wine being Varuzhan Mouradian’s ancestors who transported from Armenia down the belonged to the ancient Armenian Rivers Euphrates and Tigris in the 5th city of Van, now located in eastern century BCE. Turkey, Van Ardi has very old roots in Such references shed light on winemaking. In classical Armenian, how long back winemaking started “Ardi” means sun; therefore, Van in Armenia. In 2011, a team of Ardi literally translates as Sun of Van. researchers from UCLA and the Since the sun is an essential element Armenian Institute of Archaeology in life, nature, and wine, their logo and Ethnography, led by Armenian- depicts the worship of the ancient American archaeologist Gregory Armenian sun god, “Ardini”. Photos: Lilit Khachatryan September-ocTOBER 2017 Sommelier INDIA 43 Photos: Lilit Khachatryan Goal To produce quality wine, collaborate with wineries to come up with a wine route and develop wine tourism in Armenia W www.vanardi.com VOSKEVAZ Founded in 1932 and considered to be the oldest functioning winery in Armenia, Voskevaz which means “golden bunch” is situated in its namesake village in the Aragatsotn region, on the right side of the River Kasakh. When Armenia was part of the Soviet Union, the indigenous winery mainly The signboard leading to Van Ardi. produced sherry but now it is making a range Started by Mouradian, who lived in the US of wines under the leadership of its young, for many years running an accounting firm, Russian winemaker, Alexey Sapsay. the boutique winery was set up in 2008 after In 2004, the winery began a fundamental he decided to “live the dream of making wine transformation with the establishment of in his homeland” and found the perfect plot the Voskevaz Wine Cellar by owner, David to plant grapes on the mostly volcanic and Hovhannisyan and his brothers, Gago Oganesyan somewhat clayey soil in Aragatsotn’s Sasunik and Armen Hovhannisyan. Today the winery, village. Mouradian, who took a course in which is still under construction, looks like a winemaking at UC Davis, was initially helped medieval fairyland with a wishing well, cobbled by local winemaker friends and a consultant pathways, stone walls, rooms meant for Rapunzel from Germany. Now, his daughter Ani, who and lancet-arch windows. The brothers along with has studied at the Armenian wine academy – Mary – the daughter of David and the winery’s EVN – is fully involved in the business. affable marketing manager – are set to unveil an Grapes Four Armenian varietals – areni, underground lobby near the cellars where half- kakhet, haghtanak and kangun plus an cut barrels have been used as props and the dim- international variety, syrah lighting creates a romantic ambience. Number of wines produced 7 Annual production Currently 60,000 bottles. With expansion plans this year, production increase to 130,000 Awards n Van Ardi Areni, Kakhet, Haghtanak – gold medal at 2017 Mundus Vini Spring n Van Ardi Areni Reserve – silver medal at 2016 Mundus Vini Summer n Van Ardi Areni Kakhet, Haghtanak – third place at 2014 Areni Wine Festival, etc Best wines 2015 Van Ardi Areni, Kakhet, Haghtanak, 2016 Van Ardi Kangun and the rosés Exports 60% of the total production is exported to Russia, USA, France, UK, Netherlands, Lithuania, Belgium, Sweden and Germany Entrance to the antique, tavern-style tasting room at Voskevaz winery 44 Sommelier INDIA September-ocTOBER 2017 Exports The Russian Federation, USA, UK, The Netherlands, Lithuania and China Goal Own vineyards near the winery and develop Armenian wine tourism W www.voskevaz.am KARAS As a recently-established winery in Ararat Valley, between Mount Aragats and Mount Ararat, Karas is a part of Tierras de Armenia, Top: A worker cleans a company owned by the Argentinean family, an underground Eurnekian, who set up vineyards in 2007 and amphora before started wine production in 2010. putting in the wine. Left: Voskevaz In the first year, their winemaking was Vanakan NV dry, red carried out in a rented winery. But after that pairs well with steaks, cured ham and gaining recognition, the family established cheese its own winery, near the vineyards and engaged Argentinean winemaker, Gabriel Rogel. Michel Rolland is also a consultant winemaker with Karas, and in Rogel’s words, “We work on the blends together”. Currently, 450 hectares are under As for its winemaking techniques, staying plantation. To water these extensive vineyards, true to its roots, Voskevaz still uses karases, or Karas is using an Indo-Israeli company, Armenian clay amphorae that are dug into NaanDan Jain’s ultra-modern, wi-fi-based drip the ground, for fermenting a wine collection irrigation system. Helping the winery develop Below: A view of the called Voskevaz Karasi. This harmonious 400-ha vineyards at the exceptional quality of its grapes is the combination of old karases and new Armenian Karas, located at an continental climate of the Ararat Valley where average altitude of oak barrels is perfect for creating exquisite and 1,100 metres above hot summers are followed by a cold spell elegant wines. sea level Grapes Six – areni, kakhet, haghtanak, muskat vardabuyr, voskehat and kangun Number of wines produced 10+ Annual Production 500,000 bottles Awards n Voskevaz Karasi Collection, Voskehat – gold medal at Mundus Vini 20th Grand International Wine Awards n Voskevaz Voskepar – silver medal at Mundus Vini 20th Grand International Wine Awards n Voskevaz Rosé – gold medal at 2016 Black Sea Wines contest Best wines Voskevaz Nuraz Red, Voskevaz Red Semi-Sweet, Voskevaz Red Dry and Voskevaz Pomegranate September-ocTOBER 2017 Sommelier INDIA 45 – is named after the first King of Urartu. Grapes 10 including Karmrayut, nerkeni, tigrani, kakheti, haghtanak, kangun, rkatsiteli, saperavi and muscat Number of wines produced 10+ Annual production 14 million litres of high- end alcohol beverages Best wines Golden 25 brandy and Arame wines A line-up of wines Exports Russian Federation, Ukraine, produced at the mixed with huge day and night temperature Karas winery Europe, USA, China fluctuations. Goal To further strengthen our already strong Grapes 28 in total, including chenin blanc, market position in the highly competitive colombard, folle blanche, kangun, rkatsiteli, winemaking business areni, malbec, montepulciano, cabernet W www.map.am sauvignon, petit verdot and more Number of wines produced 7 ARMENIA WINE COMPANY Annual production 1,300,000 bottles Not far from Van Ardi winery, Armenia Wine Awards Company in Sasunik village is strategically n Karas Reserve – gold medal and Classic located between mountains Ararat, Aragats Karas Red and White – silver medal at (where traces of an ancient irrigation system Mundus Vini Germany were found) and Ara.