University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 10-2020 Signed in Silk and Silver: Examining an Eighteenth-Century Torah Ark Curtain and its Maker Genevieve Cortinovis Miriam Murphy Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Art Practice Commons, Fashion Design Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Fine Arts Commons, and the Museum Studies Commons This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Signed in Silk and Silver: Examining an Eighteenth-Century Torah Ark Curtain and its Maker Genevieve Cortinovis and Miriam Murphy In the Hebrew year 5515 or about 1755, in Ancona, a port city on the Adriatic coast of Italy, the young woman Simhah Viterbo embroidered a dedicatory inscription in Hebrew across the lower edge of this splendid Torah ark curtain or parokhet (Illustration One). It reads, “handwork of the young woman Simhah Viterbo in year of the straight and good,” the latter phrase a chronogram revealing the date.1 Viterbo, about sixteen at the time, was continuing in a long tradition of Italian Jewish women who, as acknowledged in a prayer in the Italian rite, fashioned “a mantle or cover with which to adorn the Torah.”2 1.Simhah Viterbo, Italian, 1739-1779, Torah Ark Curtain, Ancona, 1755 [515], Saint Louis Art Museum 2:2019 Drawing upon documentary sources of the Jewish community held primarily in the Central Archives for the History of the Jewish People (CAHJP) in Jerusalem, a group of Italian and Ottoman eighteenth-century Torah ark curtains, and the Inventory of Historical and Artistic Heritage of the Diocese of Ancona, this paper considers Viterbo’s potential design sources and influences, in order understand how this remarkably hybrid textile reflected her Jewish heritage 1 The date is given as a chronogram “hayashar v’hatov” or “year of the straight and good” and can be understood using the Gematria system of Jewish numerology by which a letter in the Hebrew alphabet corresponds to a numerical value, in this case 515, with the 5000 implied. 2 Maazor kol ha-shanah ke-fi minhag Italyani, ed. Samuel David Luzzatto (Livorno, 1855), 45r. but also her place and time, at the center of a major (and now overshadowed) Mediterranean trading crossroads during an era of increasing connectivity. Historic Background The largest and most conspicuous of synagogue textile furnishings, the parokhet hangs in front of or sometimes inside the Torah ark, an ornate cabinet that houses the sacred Torah, the first five books of the Hebrew Bible, and thus acts as the focal point of prayer. This painting of a synagogue interior from the seventeenth century shows a red and silver curtain with gold trim, hanging from the Torah ark visible on the right side (Illustration Two). The women look on from an elevated gallery. The men wear yellow hats, a discriminatory mandate, that suggests this depicts a synagogue in a Papal State, not unlike the one Viterbo attended. 2. Italian School, Prayer in the Synagogue During the High Holy Days, probably the Papal States, seventeenth Century, Private Collection As a Papal State, Ancona was under the direct sovereign rule of the Pope. In 1555, the Papal Bull Cum nimis absurdum, among other indignities, severely restricted the professional and economic freedom of Jews living in the Papal States, forcing most into just a few predominantly low-skill trades, like second-hand textile dealing and segregating them in ghettos. Although expressly prison-neighborhoods, scholar Dora Liscia Bemporad has suggested they also paradoxically offered security from what had been a constant threat of expulsion. This continuity of place coupled with the forced isolation of diverse communities of Jews together in a confined area “favored the growth, if not the birth, of ceremonial art that enriched and embellished places of worship to a degree that went beyond ritual needs.”3 The Jewish community of Ancona, like elsewhere in Italy, was comprised of three main cultural groups: Italianate, Sephardic, and Ashkenazic Jews. Sephardic Jews largely arrived after 1492, fleeing persecution and eventual expulsion from Spain and Portugal. With them, came increased 3 Dora Liscia Bemporad, “Jewish Ceremonial Art in the Era of the Ghettos” in Gardens and Ghettos: The Art of Jewish Life in Italy (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1989), 111. trade with the East, thanks to familial networks established by Sephardic Jews across the Ottoman Empire. These networks benefitted Ancona and despite always remaining a mid-size port, at three different moments in its history, the city enjoyed moments of economic prosperity. One such moment was in the mid eighteenth century, thanks in large part to its designation as a free port in 1732. Free ports were open to captains or merchants from any nation, luring them with the customs-free sale, storage, and reexport of goods. While economic historian Luca Andreoni suggested the city’s new status did not particularly benefit Jewish traders since it attracted French and English competition, it resulted in an influx of goods and people from across Europe. Ancona was also the export port for the agricultural goods of the Marche, which included cereals and raw silk, consistently attracting foreign traders.4 Bemporad suggests that experience in the textile trade, whether as shopkeepers like Anconite Consola Cinquecento who in 1739 sold “new and old linens, lace, and indiane [printed and painted cotton textiles],” or practitioners of rinacciature, or expert mending, probably spurred increased professionalism in textile crafts like embroidery. 5 And, while initially limited to an internal market, by the seventeenth century, Jewish professional embroiderers likely catered to customers outside the ghetto.6 The documented evidence of their work, thanks primarily to inscriptions, was made for the synagogue, the center of Jewish life in Italy. Gifts of Torah ark curtains, mantels, binders, wrappers, and desk covers, often fashioned from repurposed luxury textiles, were frequently gifted to commemorate significant events in the life of a family. While Viterbo’s Torah curtain has intermittently been attributed to Ancona since it was first published in 1986, her identity, including the date and place of her birth and death and family members had not been determined. Birth and death records in the CAHJP revealed that she was born on June 10, 1739 to Shelomo Mose Viterbo (Solomon Moise) and died on June 8, 1779.7 Her father was a student of the famed rabbi and physician Samson Morpurgo and likely a small- scale wool importer. Thanks to a recent discovery by Gioia Perugia at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, we know that Viterbo made two other synagogue textiles, a Torah mantle in 1750 and a Torah wrapper in 1758, both in a private collection. The double appellation “ha’bachura marat” used in the inscription on the curtain indicates among Italian Jewry that Viterbo was not married at the time of its construction. Although the Archivio Notarile di Ancona does not contain a record of Simhah's marriage, CAHJP files confirm she gave birth first to a daughter Ferna with Mordechai Rafael Shimshon Zemach Viterbo (Angelo Sansone) in 1764 and then to two sons. She died at the age of 40, leaving a twelve-year-old son, Yechiel Hayim Viterbo (Vitale Vita), who would go on to become a noted rabbi and write about her extraordinary artistic talents. In an 1818 text, he muses, “the work of her hands was magnificent, words cannot describe . with works of art, embroidery, in silver and in gold, more valuable than pearls, for the grandeur of the 4 Luca Andreoni, “Una Nazione in Commercio” Ebrei di Ancona, traffic adriatici e pratiche mercantile in età moderna (FrancoAngeli, 2019), 258. Altogether, from 1736-37, Jewish traders accounted for about 13% of the port trade, which aligned more or less with their demographic numbers. 5 Andreoni, “Una Nazione in Commercio” Ebrei di Ancona, traffic adriatici e pratiche mercantile in età moderna, 258. 6 Dora Liscia Bemporad, “Ricamtrici ebree nell’Italia dei ghetti” in Donne nella storia degli ebrei d’Italia (Firenze: Giuntina, 2007), 301-303. 7 CAHJP IT/An 98, IT/An 107, and IT/An 99. sanctuary and the court.”8 This poetic tribute, laden with biblical references, is a rare document celebrating the work of a specific woman embroiderer. It suggests Viterbo continued her artistic practice after she was married and thus many more of her embroideries could survive today. According to historian Michaël Gasperoni, trousseaux of women in the Marche were particularly well equipped and included books and ritual objects. 9Although Viterbo’s dowery record has not been identified, as a rabbi, Simhah’s father certainly owned books, including one printed in Venice by Bragadina in 1620. It commences with a distinctive title page composed of a portal with double columns and a broken pediment. Scholars suggest these so-called gate pages influenced the design of contemporary Torah arks and curtains. Ancona’s Italian-rite synagogue constructed in 1635 and presumably attended by Viterbo boasted a Torah ark with helical columns and silver repoussé doors featuring sunflowers rising from a gadrooned urn and side panels of floral garlands (Illustration Three). While austere on the exterior, the synagogue's interior mirrored the opulence and to some degree the design of nearby Baroque churches.10 This engagement with dominant gentile culture was tempered by a desire to create uniquely Jewish spaces of worship, a sensibility that is evident in Viterbo’s curtain.