Climbing Towards Sustainability Joseph Muggli, College of St. Benedict |St. Johns University Department of Environmental Studies. Advisors: Derek Larson, Richard Bohannon Type of Climbing Positives Negatives Abstract: Rock Climbing has grown into a popular sport Removable gear/ protection. Gear can get stuck and lost Traditional Aid Climbing amongst the cliff face. Leave No Trace Climbing that is enjoyed by people all over the world. With climb- Born from traditional climb- The Center of Outdoor Ethics has 7 Leave No Trace ing growing more popular, the strain on the environ- (TRAD) ing, deep rooted outdoor Not as secure as the other two. principles that concern any recreational activity in the ment involved is becoming an issue regarding the ethics. Requires a lot of experience outdoors. Of these seven there are that stand out spe- preservation and conservation of these popular loca- Costly to the climber Leaves no trace. cifically for climbing. tions. How does one practice climbing in an environ- Secured/ fixed anchors and Brought climbing into new un- mentally sound way to preserve the future of the sport Sport Climbing 1.) Plan Ahead and Prepare bolts. regulated areas. and to ensure the future of the ecosystems in which (Fixed Anchors) 2.)Camp and Travel on Durable Surfaces. Opens up new areas that are un Leaves a permanent route up climbing takes place? The history of the sport along with 3.) Dispose of Waste Properly -climbable in traditional man- the cliff face. relevant conservation efforts will be able to help shape 4.) Respect Wildlife ners. Replacement of weathered/ a specific set of rules to abide by in order to ensure the 5.) Leave What you Find Provides a safer atmosphere for broken bolts and anchors is sustainability of the outdoor sport. 6.) Respect Other Visitors new climbers. costly. - These rules are a great start to climbing in a sustainable More affordable than TRAD Requires more management manner. climbing. than TRAD climbing areas. No anchors/ Protective gear. Unregulated climbing areas re- Methods Available for anyone, anywhere. sult in damage to ecosystems. Bouldering History– The history of climbing will bring an understanding Broad range of areas in which Available to more people, of how the sport evolved through time. bouldering can be done. which brings more human The history of the sport will also provide evidence of the ev- traffic into climbing areas. er changing outdoor ethic of climbing. Conclusion Through the history of climbing one will be able to prove what methods of sustainable climbing prove to be most suc- - The idea of clean climbing is one that can only be suggested cessful, as well as decide which of the three sects are the and hopefully acted out amongst the climbing community. The most sustainable. Suggestions For Sustainable Climbing: three main sports all have effects, both negative and positive. To Division of the sport– by researching the three most popular choose a single one of these sports as more invasive and less Climb locally, at a gym, local crag types of climbing. sustainable than the other, wouldn’t make much sense. Choos- This allows me to analyze which of todays mainstream Join a local climbing coalition for building a stronger climbing ing to climb in a Leave No Trace manner regarding all three is the climbing types is the most invasive. community surest way to ensure one is minimalizing his or hers climbing footprint. Interviews– Personal interviews with the head of The Access Pack out what you pack in Fund, a non profit, 400,000 member strong, sustainable climbing alliance. Follow all rules and regulations of the climbing areas you Public Opinion– Using the online forum of happen to visit www.MountainProject.com, I was able to approach the climbing public regarding their personal climbing ethics. Leave what you find, keeping a clean site and climbing area will make a future visitors experience a positive one Re-Sole shoes and repair gear .